Door Mounting Plate is lost inside pillar!!

[WB72]

I was tapping the holes on the top door mounting plate on my 67 cab, two holes in, I heard it drop inside the A pillar. is there any way to get it out or am I going to have to go doorless??

hits and tips to fish it up would be great.

[dfwright]

Even if you can fish it up, It is going to be difficult to get it to stay in place while you try to put bolts into it, especially when the door is in place. These have a little cage on the inside that holds the tapped plate in place, while letting it move around a little bit for adjustment.

[WB72]

So what are my options?

The cab has been Painted, I was just on the assembly stage, so I am looking for the least amount of damage during the repair if possible.

[cleszkie]

I was just about to suggest cutting out the mounting location on the pillar, fishing the lost plate out through the new hole in the pillar with a magnetic probe, re-affixing the plate cage to the backside of the cut out mounting location, and then welding the cut out back into place in the pillar followed by some light grinding and bodywork. But now I see you don't want to damage fresh paint. You may not have another alternative. you really need to have full access to the plate and cage to do the job right. The limits of the paint damage can be minimized such that a small amount of touch up painting should be all you need.

[dfwright]

Hopefully someone smarter than me will pipe up. I don't think there's enough room through the screwholes to even get a flexible magnetic pickup tool in there to try and fish it out. I'm looking forward to seeing if there is a clever option to get it out.,

[AussieinNC]

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but there is little chance of you being able to recover the captive nut as the magnet trick has so many other sections of steel to be attracted to....

There is a way to replace it but it does mean you will have to open up the A pillar from the back and weld a plate to the inside of the pillar. I dont drill the plate until after I have the door aligned...I usually use the remaining existing captive nuts and bolts, align the door, tighten the existing bolts....then remove the door leaving the top hinge in place on the body.

Drill and tap the blank plate through the hinge body and install the bolt...replace the door.

Monday morning quarterbacking I know, but sad experiences have taught me to tap out all mounting points very early in the cab build process...then install old bolts in the holes prior to prime and paint etc...

This link may give you an idea on the process...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=438045&page=5

Hope this helps...

[WB72]

I have come to realize that body work is going to happen, I just want minimal amounts.

I think I am going to build a new 1/4” plate threaded to the template of the larger opening of the cab.

I’ll cut a 3/8” or so slot on the front of the pillar as close to the height of the hinge position.

Tack a rigid wire to the threaded plate.

Fish it into place and thread all 3 bolts into the plate.add a dab of silicone to the plate and tighten the bolts to allow the silicone to dry.

Remove wire.

Repair cut out slot.

Install door hinge.

If adjustment is required I’m sure the silicone will give way and allow movement with persuasion.


I would like to know if there are any issues other than not being able to remove the door hinge ever again without losing that plate once again.

[kwmech]

Turn the truck upside down

[Overdriven]

Originally Posted by kwmech

Turn the truck upside down

When I saw this I started laughing. Then I started thinking about it and it’s really not that unreasonable. Especially if you already have the dolly to put the cab on its back, just add some more tubing to it to go all the way over.

[kwmech]

Not all that hard if you are restoring and have the cab on a rotisserie. There has got to be way without opening up the pillar and fish that thing up. We here about it on here every now and then. Maybe a prevention would be to pop rivet the retainer near the spot welds or something.

[Bones72Super]

Plug any holes at the bottom of the pillar and then fill the cavity with Mercury and let the plate float up to the top????

[AussieinNC]

Originally Posted by WB72

I have come to realize that body work is going to happen, I just want minimal amounts.

I think I am going to build a new 1/4” plate threaded to the template of the larger opening of the cab.

I’ll cut a 3/8” or so slot on the front of the pillar as close to the height of the hinge position.

Tack a rigid wire to the threaded plate.

Fish it into place and thread all 3 bolts into the plate.add a dab of silicone to the plate and tighten the bolts to allow the silicone to dry.

Remove wire.

Repair cut out slot.

Install door hinge.

If adjustment is required I’m sure the silicone will give way and allow movement with persuasion.


I would like to know if there are any issues other than not being able to remove the door hinge ever again without losing that plate once again.

Good strategy, but the silicon breaking away for adjustment would leave the plate vulnerable to drop down if all three bolts were ever removed...why not drill an additional small hole in both the plate and the A pillar and use a small button head bolt to secure the plate. if you made the hole in the A pillar a little larger than the bolt shank, you could then have a small amount of adjustability. Like a button head bolt with a 1/4" shank and a 5/8" head, with a 3/8" hole in the A pillar.

One thing with leaving the nut loose in the A pillar is the possibility of the inevitable rattle rattle noise. Maybe time for a small hole in the inside of the lower A pillar section to retrieve the nut...plug it with a simple push in plug...

Good luck...

[Jim Boy]

Maybe take the fender off or at least the inner fender and go at it from the back side(front side). Any holes cut there won't be seen when patched and your paint will still be ok. Just a thought before putting the thing on a rotisserie. Glad my doors are on. Have a good one.

[rjs53]

I'd still try the magnet, its worth a chance. While I'm thinking of it, I'm gonna go put a bolt in mine right now. I have both doors off as we speak

[WB72]

All good ideas.

Rjs53
I feel the magnet will get stuck to the first thing it contacts, probably the side of the cavity.

Jim Boy
My fenders are not on yet, so I will go at it from the engine bay side.

AussieinNC
The extra bolt May contact the hinge itself, but I think if I make the plate large enough that just might work. I’ll check measurements tomorrow when I get to working on it again.

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by cleszkie

I was just about to suggest cutting out the mounting location on the pillar, fishing the lost plate out through the new hole in the pillar with a magnetic probe, re-affixing the plate cage to the backside of the cut out mounting location, and then welding the cut out back into place in the pillar followed by some light grinding and bodywork. But now I see you don't want to damage fresh paint. You may not have another alternative. you really need to have full access to the plate and cage to do the job right. The limits of the paint damage can be minimized such that a small amount of touch up painting should be all you need.

This would be the right way to repair it once and you could have paint back on by the end of today ? a paint touch up in the door jam would be the easiest place to have a problem happen . Or you could spend days thinking about it and after fabbing a new plate and possibly drop it down the pillar only to have to start again . Bite the bullet and cut it open .

[El Dorado Jim]

subd

[WB72]

Here is what I was able to come up with. Basically what I mentioned earlier, with the exception of where I cut the pillar. I ended up going in from the top.

The problem still will be having the plate possibly falling back down the pillar. I originally had the plate longer,to allow a security bolt, but there is internal material in the way so it could not be used. I have used a blob of silicone to retain the plate during the door installation.

Body work and paint will follow after the door alignment.

**Sorry the images are rotated, this is one area that I cant figure out the solution.

[Smitty]

you could tap a couple of holes for a small diameter flat head screw. Using a fine thread and counter sink on the out side. This would hold the plate forever. Put a dab of filler over the screw head to hide it since you'll never have to remove it again'

[kwmech]

Originally Posted by Smitty

you could tap a couple of holes for a small diameter flat head screw. Using a fine thread and counter sink on the out side. This would hold the plate forever. Put a dab of filler over the screw head to hide it since you'll never have to remove it again'

Once all the final adjustments are made

[dfwright]

Were you able to fish out the original plate?

[WB72]

Originally Posted by dfwright

Were you able to fish out the original plate?

I attempted to use a magnet, but it stuck to the sides of the pillar, it is now has a permanent home inside the pillar.

[WB72]

Originally Posted by kwmech

Once all the final adjustments are made

This could be hard to do since the hinge has to be in place for alignment and then it will be in the way to lock it into place.

[HO455]

Here is a thread with the most dissected cab I have ever found. It may help you.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=705214&page=2

[garyd1961]

You need one of the magnet tools with the flexible shaft. Even if it sticks to the pillar you still can push it down to where the plate is. It also has the spring loaded plunger with the little claw grabber on the end. I have one I got from tractor supply really cheap.