1966 Chevy C10 alignment?

[COCONUTS]

I just got through replacing a drivers side lower control arm, new coils and shocks all around, lower ball joints and both sides tie rod assemblies. I installed all stock parts and didn’t lower the truck at all. I also replaced the panhard (trac) bar with an adjustable bar and have the rear end dead center now.

My question is what are the “toe” settings on this year truck?

I have read 1/8th total IN....1/16th in on each side.

I also saw different charts posted here that are totally different. I didn’t disrupt the upper camber settings at all. I was going to set my toe in or out using a string from back to front and measure the in-out on the front wheels so I can use the truck until I can get it in to the alignment shop. I’m involved with a project and need my truck to get lumber, plumbing and electrical supplies.

This is my daily driver.

Thank you for any replies.

Greg

[nsb29]

And eighth of an inch is good you could also use a tape measure and measure the front of the tires and the rear of the tires if everything else is good should be fine until you get it a alignment shop

[COCONUTS]

Originally Posted by nsb29

And eighth of an inch is good you could also use a tape measure and measure the front of the tires and the rear of the tires if everything else is good should be fine until you get it a alignment shop

Do you know if that is “IN or OUT”? I’ve read both ways and that’s why I’m asking. My truck drove straight before I changed all the parts and my tires look perfect.


Thanks for the reply

[SkinnyG]

Typically you want toe IN on the front.

Road friction will push the tires to ZERO, because of slop in bushings and bearings. If you run poly bushings, you can set the toe closer to Zero, but you likely still want some toe in.

1/8" toe IN is a good starting place. If poly bushings I'd do 1/16"

Toe OUT makes the steering more responsive (or twitchy).

For best tire wear, you want the tire to end up at zero while rolling.

I use toe-plates and tape measures (and both digital and bubble camber/caster gauges) and have done many, many alignments. You can get very good and repeatable results with practice.

(FWD often needs toe OUT, because power pulls the wheels inward)

[COCONUTS]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

Typically you want toe IN on the front.

Road friction will push the tires to ZERO, because of slop in bushings and bearings. If you run poly bushings, you can set the toe closer to Zero, but you likely still want some toe in.

1/8" toe IN is a good starting place. If poly bushings I'd do 1/16"

Toe OUT makes the steering more responsive (or twitchy).

For best tire wear, you want the tire to end up at zero while rolling.

I use toe-plates and tape measures (and both digital and bubble camber/caster gauges) and have done many, many alignments. You can get very good and repeatable results with practice.

(FWD often needs toe OUT, because power pulls the wheels inward)

Great....that’s what I had first read, but saw the opposite on another site. I’m doing the job now using some straight steel stock locked to my wheels and a couple of tape measures. I’ll have it on the road in an hour or so and should know pretty quick if I’m way out of whack. I just need to use the truck for a few loads of building materials and hopefully can get it in for a real alignment towards the end of the week.

Thank you for taking the time to reply.

Greg