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Old 10-29-2003, 02:50 AM   #1
jorgensensc
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Blazer Tank Install With Pics.

Here is the install I promised. Stay tuned for the pics and install of Tennman's Sidemarker Fuel Fill.

Parts list for tank install:

1 - Tank kit from The Truck Shop(PN 69-107092)-166.00
25' - 16 gauge wire from Kragen-2.99
2 - 4 pack Range 5/16"-7/8" hose clamps from Kragen-4.00 each
1 - 1 1/2" to 1 1/2" Exhaust Adapter from Autozone(PN 17519)-1.49 (optional)
3' - 1 1/2" Fuel filler hose from Kragen(PN 80803)-16.99 (optional)
3' - 5/8 fuel hose from Kragen-3.00
7' - 1/4" fuel filler hose from Kragen-7.00
25' - 3/8" fuel hose from Kragen(cheaper than 16'@1.00 per ft)-13.99
2 - 4" bolts
2 - Nuts for bolts

Also needed is a cutter wheel or sawzall and someone who can weld.

With that out of the way, here we go.....


The Tank from The Truck Shop
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1972 C20 Suburban- Big Blue Betty
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Old 10-29-2003, 02:55 AM   #2
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Feel free to paint it whatever color you like. I chose to use rubberized undercoating to help avoid rust.

I removed the spare tire bar by grinding off the rivets holding it on (sorry no pics from before).
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Old 10-29-2003, 02:57 AM   #3
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The hanger bolts fit in the Holes that have tabs in them on the Tank. I had to widen the holes slightly for the Hanger Bolts to fit.
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Old 10-29-2003, 02:58 AM   #4
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Hanger Bolt inserted
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1972 C20 Suburban- Big Blue Betty
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Old 10-29-2003, 03:06 AM   #5
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Several things here:

I unbolted my exhaust hanger and moved the hanger to the side to get the tank up against the frame. I then ran the Hanger Bolts through the frame, tank, then rubber bushing, then exhaust hanger.

I bolted drivers side straps in place, Then pulled the straps across the tank, and slid (with much force) the other sides on the Hanger Bolts. Tighten all bolts until the tank is secured in place.

I used extra Hanger Bolts instead of bolts, either will work.
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Old 10-29-2003, 03:08 AM   #6
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In order to get the tank in, I had to trim the heat shield (big flat shiny metal piece) a little on one side.
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Old 10-29-2003, 03:09 AM   #7
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Another Pic
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Old 10-29-2003, 03:11 AM   #8
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Next install the sending unit. I had to trim about 1/16" off the lock ring to get it to seat. Nothing major at all!!
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Old 10-29-2003, 03:20 AM   #9
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Several things here...

I pulled the sending unit wire out of the truck and it almost reached (about 4' short) the new sending unit. I added more wire and ran the wire in through te fire wall and to the fuse box.

I hooked all hoses up..
7' of 3/8" hose from the sending unit to metal line under cab.
7' of 1/4" hose from return line to metal line under cab.
9' of 3/8" hose from vent tube to metal line inder cab (to charcoal canister)

I also connected the ground wire to the chassis.
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Old 10-29-2003, 03:26 AM   #10
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Nice job! Hey, can you get a pic of what it looks like from the rear? I'm just curious on how much of the tank is visible below the rear bumper.
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Old 10-29-2003, 03:32 AM   #11
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Thais next part is optional, but I suggest you consider your options

The filler neck on these tanks is 1 3/8"
There are very few if any filler necks that small (unless using original filler neck)
You can try and reduce the filler neck you use down to 1 3/8", but I found it IMPOSSIBLE to find Fuel Filler hose that would fit this size neck.
The solution was to increase te size of the tank neck to the more common 1 1/2" Filler hose size. I used the exhaust adapter(PN 17519). I cut it in half at the indention, then had it welded at the indention (closest to tank neck size) to the tank inlet(Yellow Circle) Please don't think that you can just stretch this hose over the end, it doesn't work!!!!!! After fighting with it for an hour, I finally had the shop use a pipe expander on the hose to get it to slip over the tank neck. After that I just clamped it on using a 1 13/16" - 2 7/8" hose clamp.
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Old 10-29-2003, 03:36 AM   #12
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The cross member hit the neck, fortunately I can remove this piece off of my wood bed. You can trim it to fit if you choose. Yes that's me holding it before it falls on my face as I remove the last bolt.
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Old 10-29-2003, 03:45 AM   #13
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Thanks for the pics more people should do that to help out the rookies like me.
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Old 10-29-2003, 03:51 AM   #14
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That is pretty much it. It was not that hard, and pretty cheap for around 225.00 total. You don't have to take the bed off, but 8 bolts and it's gone. It sure makes it alot easier to do the work. I used some nylon hose clamps (29cents each at hardware store) to secure them to the frame. By the way this was on my stepside in case anyone is curious. I also did te sidemarker fuel fill conversion and will post that in a few days. I will try and get some outside pics tomorrow (in the daylight) to show how far down it hangs. My spare tire hung farther down than this tank does. It is about 4" below the bottom of the back bumper, if that much. I hope this helps some of you do your installs. I will monitor this post if you have any questions. Good Luck!!!!!
Shawn
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Last edited by jorgensensc; 10-29-2003 at 03:56 AM.
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Old 10-29-2003, 04:11 AM   #15
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Good deal! We need to get this moved to FAQ section.
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Old 10-29-2003, 09:14 AM   #16
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So much for the easy parts---can't wait to see the step by step on the fuel filler work. Tennman's porcess is nice but seems to leave out too much detail so perhaps your's will either show the way to side market filler or scare us to in bed filler!
I've got two tanks to install and have been putting it off till I'm comfortable with where and how to do the filler. Also hate the idea of cutting the floor support on a metal floor~~~~
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Old 10-29-2003, 11:28 AM   #17
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I think this deserves at least 1 TTT
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Old 10-29-2003, 12:01 PM   #18
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TTT,,, I agree, this would be great in the FAQ section, when I convert my tank!
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Old 10-29-2003, 02:27 PM   #19
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What capacity is that tank? i wanna do the swap, but would really enjoy a bit larger tank.
thanx
dale
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Old 10-29-2003, 02:41 PM   #20
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Nice job...now what are you going to do with all that free space behind the seat, lol
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Old 10-29-2003, 05:56 PM   #21
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Thanks for all the information and time you take to post. I'm about to start this same installation and this is very useful.
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Old 10-30-2003, 04:57 PM   #22
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nice job...
could you tell me how you vented the tank???
im in the process of converting my swb 4x4 over to blazer tank,i got the tennman filler done,and the tank installed to the frame just have to run lines ...
good luck and thanks for posting
jamie
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Old 10-30-2003, 08:53 PM   #23
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I thought this was a modified Blazer tank to fit these trucks? Or is this company making Blazer tanks only?
It seems that there were several items that need to be addressed. I mean if the builder is just down the street from the Truck Shop, maybe you could do some R&D for them and tell them to increase the filler neck during the build. Also increase the hole size/angle so the mounting bolts fit correctly. How does the filler neck line up with the side marker? Maybe they could adjust the angle there also if needed.
I would like to do this swap but do not want to work hours to cram and fit it.
It would be great to have the details worked out and built right from the start.
Like buying headers and then massaging (hammer) the pipes to clear things.
Let us know.
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Old 10-30-2003, 09:44 PM   #24
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Huck,
The sidemarker install was a little bit of a pain in the a$$, but it wasn't really that hard, just takes a little thinking. I will post it as soon as I get all my info rechecked. I hope to be able to give you specific details on the install, like dimensions, bolt sizes, etc. I did this on a stepside, so you might have to check a few things with other fleetside members.

orange72350,
THe tank is a 21 gallon tank

yellow72custom,
Hopefully put some speakers back there!!!

jamie72,
I vented the tank to the fuel filler neck, it had a vent tube for it attached. I also vented the other line to the carbon cannister. Hope this answers your question. I have heard of people using a vent breather (you can get from parts store)

nu2-72,
These are plain blazer tanks. They call it a conversion because it comes with the straps, sending unit, tank and necessary bolts to mount all in 1 kit for a low price.
As for the neck filler size, they are using the factory size. I know that it is not a convenient size, but if they change it to 1 1/2" neck, then what about the 2" filler necks? Both are common. I will agree that the hole size on the mounting flange could be bigger, but it only took me about 2 min. to wallow those out a little. They were only a little bit too small. Again that is a detail and I do agree with you.
As for lining up the neck with the sidemarker, it is not that far off. I don't think it would be fair to ask them to modify the tank for just sidemarker conversions. What about those that do bed floor fills?
If they did these changes, they will probably have to charge more for the retooling.
Please remember, putting the tank itself in only took about 2 hours. I spent the rest of the time working on the filler neck conversion. You can easily get this done in a day if you had a complete parts list before you start. That's what I hope to provide to the members here. It really wasn't that hard, I promise.

Any more questions??

Hope all this helps y'all!!
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Old 10-30-2003, 10:20 PM   #25
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Great job on the pictures, wish I had that when I did mine. Your right on the time with the bed off took about 2 hours of actual putting it in after we figure out what we were doing.
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