Hatzies 2005 2500HD

[hatzie]

In July of this year I flew to Sacramento CA and bought a rust free 2005 Silverado LS 2500HD extended cab 6'6" bed with the 6.0, 4L80E, NP263HD, 4.10 gears.

The shipper delivered it to me at their terminal in August.

I ran the VIN on CompNine and they claim the following equpment was on this rig when it left the GM plant.

1SB SALES PACKAGE SALES PKG(1SB)
1SZ PACKAGE OPTION- (1SZ)
59U EXTERIOR COLOR,PRIMARY,FINE SILVER BIRCH MET (59U)
69D TRIM COMBINATION CLOTH,VERY DARK PEWTER (69D) Original
69I INTERIOR TRIM COLOR,VERY DARK PEWTER (69I)
6GK SPRING COMPTR SELECT FRT LH SUSP(6GK)
7GK SPRING COMPTR SELECT FRT RH SUSP(7GK)
A31 WINDOW,POWER OPERATED,ALL DOORS PWR WINDOWS(A31)
AE7 SEAT,FRT SPLIT,EASY ENTRY EASY ENTRY SPLIT F/SEAT(AE7)
AG1 ADJUSTER FRT ST POWER, MULTI-DIRECTIONAL, DRIVER MULTI-DIRECTIONAL PWR D/SEAT ADJR(AG1)
AJ1 GLASS,DEEP TINT(REAR SIDE WINDOWS AND REAR DOOR WINDOW) DEEP TINTED GLS(AJ1)
AM7 SEAT,REAR FOLDING RR FLDG ST(AM7)
AU0 LOCK CONTROL,REMOTE ENTRY(KEYLESS ENTRY SYSTEM) REMOTE ENTRY LK CONT(AU0)
AU3 LOCK,SIDE DOOR,ELECTRIC ELEC S/D LK(AU3)
B30 CARPET,FLOOR AND WHEELHOUSE FLR CPT(B30)
B32 COVERING,FLOOR MATS,FRONT AUXILIARY FRT AUX FLR MATS(B32)
B33 COVERING,FLOOR MATS,REAR AUXILIARY RR AUX FLR MATS(B33)
B71 ORNAMENTATION,EXTERIOR,WHEEL OPENING MOLDING(BLACK) W/H MLDG(B71)
B85 ORNAMENTATION,EXTERIOR,BELT REVEAL MOLDING BELT RVL MLDG(B85)
C49 DEFOGGER,REAR WINDOW,ELECTRIC ELEC RR WDO DEFG(C49)
C6W GVW RATING(9200 LBS) 9200 LB GVWR(C6W)
CJ2 HVAC SYSTEM AIR CONDITIONER FRT, AUTO TEMP CONT, AUX TEMP CONT A/C FRT AUTO/AUX CONT(CJ2)
DF5 MIRROR,INSIDE,REARVIEW,LT SENSITIVE,COMPASS,O/S TEMP DISPLAY I/S REARVIEW MIR W/COMPASS(DF5)
DK7 CONSOLE ROOF INTERIOR,CUSTOM,COMPASS & OUTSIDE TEMP RF CNSL(DK7)
DL3 MIRROR O/S LH & RH, REMOTE CONTROL, ELECTRIC, HEATED POWER FOLDING, TURN SIG IND, LT SENSITIVE, COLOR ELEC HEATED O/S MIR(DL3)
E63 BODY EQUIPMENT,FLEETSIDE PICKUP BOX FLEETSIDE PUBX(E63)
EVA TEST DVT, EVAP EMISSION REQUIREMENT EVAP EMISSIONS REQUIRED(EVA)
FT2 ARM TORS BAR SPRING ADJ (FT2) ARM LH TORS BAR SPR ADJ(FT2)
FT3 ARM TORS BAR SPRING ADJ (FT3) ARM RH TORS BAR SPR ADJ(FT3)
G80 AXLE,REAR,POSITRACTION,LIMITED SLIP POSITRACTION L/SLIP R/AXL(G80)
GMC PLANT CODE PONTIAC, MI, GM T&B PONTIAC,MI GM T&B ASSEMBLY PLANT(GMC)
GT5 AXLE,REAR,4.10 RATIO 4.10R(GT5)
HVY IDENTIFICATION 2 INCH BODY RAISE, H.D. MODEL TWO INCH BODY RAISE I.D.(HVY)
JH6 BRAKE HYD POWER, 4 WHL DISC, 9,900 LBS BRK HYD PWR DISC(JH6)
K34 CRUISE CONTROL,AUTOMATIC,ELECTRONIC CRCONT(K34)
K47 AIR CLEANER HIGH CAPACITY HI CAPACITY A/CL(K47)
K68 GENERATOR,105 AMPERE 105 AMP(K68)
KC4 COOLING SYSTEM,ENGINE OIL ENG OIL CLG(KC4)
KNP COOLING SYSTEM,TRANSMISSION,HEAVY DUTY HVY DUTY TRANS CLG SYS(KNP)
KUP THROTTLE CONTROL VARIABLE SPEED (ELECTRONIC) ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL(KUP)
LQ4 ENGINE GAS, 8 CYL, 6.0L, MFI 6.0U(LQ4)
MT1 TRANSMISSION,AUTO,4-SPD,THM-R2(4L80-E) 4-SPD A/TRANS(MT1)
NA4 EMISSION SYSTEM,ABOVE 8500 LB GVW EMIS SYS(ABOVE 8500 LB GVW)(NA4)
NC1 EMISSION SYSTEM CALIFORNIA, LEV CALIF EMIS LEV(NC1)
NP1 TRANSFER CASE,ELECTRONIC SHIFT,TWO SPEED ELEK SHFT TRFER CASE(NP1)
NP5 STEERING WHEEL,LEATHER WRAPPED LEATHER WRAPPED STRG WHL(NP5)
NZZ PACKAGE,OFF ROAD SKID PLATE,SPORT SKID PLT PKG(NZZ)
PY0 WHEEL,16 X 6.5,ALUMINUM ALUM WHL(PY0)
QIW TIRE ALL LT245/75R16/E BW R/PE ST TL OOR 120Q TIRE(QIW)
R9Z CONTROL - SALES ITEM NO.100
SAF LOCK SPARE TIRE, HOIST SHAFT SPARE TIRE LOCK HOIST SHF(SAF)
SLM SALES PROCESSING - STOCK ORDERS
T96 LAMP,FRONT FOG FRT FOG LP(T96)
TR3 GRILLE RADIATOR, BODY COLOR, W/CHROME EMBLEM BODY COLOR GRILLE W/CHROME EMB(TR3)
UB0 RADIO AM/FM STEREO,SEEK/SCAN,CD,AUTO TONE,DATA RAD STEREO W/CD & DATA RAD(UB0)
UK3 ELECTRONIC SYSTEM,ACCESSORY CONTROL ELEK ACSRY CONT SYS(UK3)
UQ3 SPEAKER SYSTEM,PERFORMANCE ENHANCED AUDIO ENHANCED SPKR SYS(UQ3)
UY2 PROVISIONS, CAMPER WIRING HARNESS CAMPER & 5TH WHEEL WIRING HARNESS(UY2)
V73 VEHICLE STATEMENT - US/CANADA US/CANADA VEHICLE STATEMENT(V73)
VB3 BUMPER,REAR STEP,INCLUDES IMPACT STRIP(CHROME) CHROME STEP BPR(VB3)
VG3 STRIP,FRONT BUMPER IMPACT FRT BPR IMP STR(VG3)
VG8 LABEL,NOTICE TO BUYER NOTICE TO BUYER LABEL(VG8)
VP6 NOISE LEVEL CONTROL NOISE LVL CONT(VP6)
VR4 TRAILER HITCH(WEIGHT DISTRIBUTING PLATFORM) EQLZR HITCH(VR4)
VXS VEHICLE - COMPLETE
X88 CONVERSION CHEVROLET CHEVROLET(X88)
XGK TIRE FRONT LT245/75R16/E BL R/PE ST OOR(9591214) TIRE(XGK)
YD3 AXLE FRONT (BASE EQUIP) FOR SCHEDULING GVW PLATE FRT AXLE(YD3)
YD6 SPRING,REAR(BASE EQUIPMENT) RR SPRING(YD6)
YE9 CONVENIENCE PKG COMFORT & DECOR LEVEL #3 COMFORT & CONVENIENCE PKG #3(YE9)
YF5 CALIFORNIA EMISSION CERTIFICATION CALIFORNIA EMIS CERTIFICATION(YF5)
YGK TIRE REAR LT245/75R16/E BL R/PE ST OOR(9591214) TIRE(YGK)
Z82 TRAILERING PACKAGE(SPECIAL)(REESE TYPE HITCH) PROVISION FOR HD TRAILER EQUIP(Z82)
Z85 CHASSIS PACKAGE,INCREASED CAPACITY CHAS PKG(Z85)
ZHH TIRE SPARE LT245/75R16/E BL R/PE ST ALS(9591207) SPARE TIRE(ZHH)
ZY1 COLOR COMBINATION SOLID SOLID PAINT COMBO(ZY1)

I usually make OEM-Plus mods to my vehicles. The goal is that they look like GM could've done it and my work is clean enough to be factory or dealership installed options.

***EDIT****
You can likely get your local GM dealer to print a build sheet if you ask nicely.

You can also get a PDF build sheet from GM for your T800 in your email as well.
It took several days to get an answer. It's free so even if it takes em 2-3 weeks that ain't bad...


---------------form email---------------

Email to: socialmedia@gm.com
Subject: Build sheet request

Hello,
I read that I could request a build sheet on the 67-72 Chevy Truck Forums.
I'm hoping you can provide me with a build sheet for My GM Light Truck.
Year, Make, Model, VIN: xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Thank you,
My Name

---------------------------------------------------

[hatzie]

As It was when I test drove it in July.

[hatzie]

$650.00 Line-X from Truck Trends in Belmont, NH and a $200 Truxedo Roll Up Tonneau Cover from Evilbay.
The inside of the 13 year old bed was mint with the exception of some finish coat rub-thru to primer on top of the wheel arches and headache board. ZERO RUST!!!! I want to keep it that way.



I replaced the 17x7.5" Hummer H2 wheels with 285/75R17 tires on N89 17x7 wheels. The Michelin LT265 tires do not have a warranty if they're mounted on the 16" x 6.5" wide PY0 wheels.
This style 8 lug N89 wheels were actually an option on the 2005 Silverado but mine didn't leave the factory with them.
The tires on the N89 wheels are Michelin Defender LT265/70R17. The wheels are around $160 each on evilbay. Probably Asian or Central/South America manufacture but all four spin true with no tire and the fit and finish is good enough for my truck.
I've mounted 265/75R16 tires on PY0 wheels and run them on my 1976 & 2000 3/4 ton trucks with no issues but Michelin will not warranty them on "narrow" wheels anymore.
All of them are the 8 bolt 6.5" circle pattern GM ran from the 60s through 2010 or so.
I did update the ABS controller tire size using my Tech 2. I picked the factory available 265/75R16 tire that's the same outside diameter as the 265/0R17 tires. The brakes seem to behave better now even tho the fluid is black as pitch. Whether this has any bearing on the speedometer is up for grabs. It wasn't reading properly when I had the 285 tires on her. It's dead nuts now according to the handy dandy "your speed is" radar trailer setup by one of the local town police departments.
EDIT**^^ this only affects the ABS and any associated traction control operation it doesn't fix the shift points and fuel map usage in the PCM. The speedometer was still off by a fair amount. Doing it right is a two part operation... You need to change the ABS tire size with a Tech2 or MDI and then the PCM tire size with an aftermarket tool to make everything work properly with larger or smaller tires.


My local dealer had some GMT800 molded Bowtie splash guards collecting dust on the shelf so I got em for a decent price. Never hurts to ask.

• GM 12498060 Front Splash Guard Kit
• GM 12498342 Rear Splash Guard Kit

I replaced the cracked and leaking third brake light lens with a brand new AC Delco lens... $38 on evilbay. No sign of any leaks when I test drove it and picked it up but the headliner fabric was damp the morning after I drove it home in a driving rain storm. I guess rain wasn't an issue where it was titled in Reno Nevada.
It doesn't look any different from the ground and I didn't snap any pics when I replaced it so no pictures guys...
My 2000 C2500 doesn't sit this high but this one is almost like my 76 was before I removed the 4" suspension lift. I'm 6'4" and the drivers seat is too high for me to just jump in. I installed Promaxx 211537S wheel to wheel 3" stainless step bars. Now I can step up into the unreasonably high cab and I can reach into the forward end of the bed without a stepladder.
You can see one of the step bars in this picture... the pretty new cyclops brake light lens is in the picture too but it doesn't look much different from the old one til you get up close.

[hatzie]

I replaced the headlamps and Parking/Turn/DRL housings.

• GM 10396912 RH Headlamp Complete with Bulbs
• GM 10396913 LH Headlamp Complete with Bulbs
• GM 15199557 RH Parking/Turn/DRL lamp housing
• GM 15199556 LH Parking/Turn/DRL lamp housing

Ended up at around $125 each for the headlamps and $54 for a paired set of parking lamp housings... So $304 for all new GM front lamps.

You can see before, with the yellow sun-damaged 15 year old lamps, doesn't look as bad as some I've seen but the light output was severely compromised. Worse than I thought it would be test driving it in the Afternoon Sacramento sun. I ran it home from Marlboro MA with my high beams on so I could see the road... nobody flashed me. The lights were too dim. The low beams were barely enough to light up the lines on the road. They wouldn't reach high enough to really light up the top street signs on US 20 set on HI.

Before...







After...



I also got rid of that obnoxious silly camo wrap on the bowtie.



The tails are cloudy on the sides when it's humid but I've decided to wait on those. I may change over to the amber turns from the 99-02 trucks if they'll fit. I need to take a close look at one in a local salvage yard.

[hatzie]

The interior is getting some minor repairs as well. Even tho she only has 85,000 miles... She's almost 14 years old folks.

The centre vent on the passenger side was missing a louver. I replaced it with a good looking one from a local wrecked 2001 2500HD after I cleaned it up with a swiffer duster.
The leather wrapped steering wheel was sticky and shiny and there are a couple lightly worn places in the leather and control buttons. Not too bad but I found a brand New GM 10364490 for $170 shipped. The original is in the attic now. I'll probably get the original re-covered and replace the switches if I keep this truck more than a few years.

Missing louver RH Center Vent and old steering wheel...



Old steering wheel...



New Wheel and used but new looking vent.
The Headlamp, 4x4, & Cargo/Fog switches are new as well. It wouldn't indicate it was shifted into Neutral or 4L, when it was, and the cargo lamp wouldn't light from the switch. Not to mention the burnt out panel lamps. The panel bulbs in the headlamp switch were burnt out and the Dorman switch was $13 vs several hours of my time to fix a worn dirty switch. The other two switches were equally cheap and weren't worn.



It had the AE7 Cloth Centre Jump Seat without the bottom storage GM added to the T900 AZ3 Jump Seat in 2007.
IMHO the GMT900 AZ3 Jump Seat with three cup-holders, top storage, and locking bottom storage is a much nicer bolt-in that looks OEM on the GMT800 trucks.
I found an Ebony AZ3 Jump seat and liberated it for $150.

Old AE7 Jump Seat and Old Steering Wheel...



New GMT900 Jump Seat and New Steering Wheel...



I'm going to replace the cloth with Leather and put two stage heaters in the seats as well as replacing the 13year old driver side butt foam.

[hatzie]

Some of the switches needed lamps. The switches and controls worked but the illumination lamps were out.

If you don't have the equipment and patience to do this I would reccomend farming it out to someone who does. The circuit boards are very thin and the trace plating is equally thin. Very easy to overheat the boards and lift the traces. Not much fun to install tracer wires to repair that kind of screw up. I didn't make any errors like that on this project but I have in the past. Anybody who tells you otherwise is lying.

I have some used "low mileage" ESD safe electronics soldering equipment that I bought for more than decent pricing at a Hamvention... $30 for a Hakko 472D Desoldering station and a $75 for a used Professional Weller WD1M Soldering station power supply and a new WXMP Micro Pencil from yet another vendor. IMHO these are astronomically expensive new. Used was another story. They didn't have corporate inventory labels or the glue outlines from said labels and they were obviously used and not cleaned up. The guys selling them at the Hamvention flea market didn't look like meth heads and they had a lot of similar equipment that looked like it came from auction sales so...
You can get a Weller WLC-100 for around $50. I have one under the bench with a lot of miles on it that I used before I stumbled upon the WD1M. You'll need an infrared thermometer to set the temp on a WLC-100 to 660°F and keep in mind that it heats up much slower than the pro level stations so the temp control isn't as tight as the pro or even entry level equipment either. Un-regulated pencils and the old WLC-100 stations are NOT ESD SAFE so you don't want to use them around static sensitive parts like the microchips on the digital climate control, radio, or the instrument cluster...
Honestly... I'd look into a Weller WE1010... They are an entry level ESD safe digital temp controlled station with a pro level changeable tip pencil and they're priced around $130 new... just right for serious hobby use. Even tho the threaded ferrule tip pencil isn't as sweet to work with as the plug-in tip WXMP there are fine gauge screwdriver and conical 0.015" tips available to confine the heat to just the area you want to solder. It's still far and away a better station than the WLC-100 or any of the un-controlled plug-in soldering irons. It's not a Corvette but I'd say it's about like moving up from a Chevy Spark to an Epsilon 3.6L Impala...
I use lead electronics solder.. not a fan of ROHS compliant solder. I use fine gauge 20AWG Tin & Lead Kester rosin core 60:40 Sn:Pb. Why? Because LEAD WORKS. Kester isn't expensive and they use better quality rosin than the uber-cheap stuff from Radio Shack, WalMart, etc. and won't smoke you out of the bench room.
I use a flux remover from MG Chemicals but there are several DIY recipes online for flux remover. Not sure how well they work. The Bottle of MG Chemicals stuff works quite well.

Even tho a few of the switch and control dash lamps worked I replaced all of the panel lamps in the Mirror Heater Indicator, and Climate Control with new Tungsten bulbs with the correct voltage and wattage ratings. The old ones lasted more than a decade and I didn't want to open the instrument cluster, door switches, and steering wheel switches to match different color LEDs in the everything else...

The aftermarket radio is expected to look different and it does.

One bulb in the climate control was still working. The rest were dark.
I didn't take pictures of the controls and switches when I had em open. Google will turn up a plethora of pictures where folks are showing how to do LED upgrades on the various GMT800 switches and controls and even the instrument cluster.

The old burnt out climate control bulbs are interesting. The bases were crispy and a few disintegrated as soon as I gently pulled on them after sucking the solder out of the through holes in the super thin circuit board. The tungsten vacuum plated itself on the inside of the bulb when they blew out so they look like tiny very convex mirrors.



The climate controller only had one instrument lamp that worked behind the LH red blocks of the temp dial.
This is the control head with actual lights after I re-installed it. It's worth noting that I re-used the original blue silicone lamp covers on the new bulbs.



This is a HowTo video from AudioExpress on repairing the climate control bulbs. I bought their climate control and Delco radio bulb kits along with one bulb for the folding mirror indicator. My Jetta had a mirror heater position on the joystick so I incorrectly assumed the re-lit hieroglyph on this truck was a mirror heater.
I'll fix the burnt out lamps on the Delco radio this winter and keep it in the attic.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UaINkoAvu58

[hatzie]

The MIL illuminated soon after I got it home.

Torque Pro shows Code P0446
--P0446 is triggered when the ECM has detected a short in the circuitry to activate the vent control valve or the EVAP system failed to maintain the vacuum during the active EVAP leakdown test.

No shorts in the wiring folks.

Most of the threads I've seen on EVAP codes leap to the conclusion that the filler cap is bad and if that's not bad then "replace the purge valve" then ...

I don't just throw parts at problems praying I guessed right. I troubleshoot. Hail Mary Shotgun repairs are way too expensive.

I plugged in my Knock Off Tech 2 and ran some Evap tests.
-Both Purge and Vent solenoids made substantial clicks when I commanded them on and off. This put them on the back burner.
-When I closed the vent and opened the purge valve 20% with the engine running I heard a sucking noise from the filler door and the tank pressure sensor noted ZERO change... Dead Steady at 6.6in Hg. <---That dead steady pressure reading, way above .2" Hg, should've been a clue that it wasn't just the dead gas cap seal...
Okey Dokey. Off to O'Riley for a Stant filler cap to replace the knackered cap on the fill pipe.
New filler cap installed. Cleared the DTC codes with Torque. The MIL re-illuminated on the way home. WTF is going on here Did I buy a lemon?

Nope just an Onion... OK... Peeling the Onion...
-Tech 2 still shows 6.6in Hg no matter what the state of the EVAP valves. No sucking noise from the filler neck anymore so the cap really was worn out. I can now make the engine stumble from vacuum being pulled on the tank with the purge open and vent closed... The pressure sensor is still reading rock steady at 6.6in Hg. <--- Hey big dummy ya got a clue yet?
-Change the EVAP tank pressure sensor with a brand new GM sensor from the dealer in Wells River... Don't trust China made cheapo parts to last in-service and this sensor is in a really quite unpleasant location so I paid for an OEM part.

The gas cap was bad but this was a major chunk of the problem...


Tip for anyone doing this sensor. As you can see it's just like a MAP sensor. The tank pressure sensor is press fit through the top of the sender but there was no need to drop the tank or lift the bed... at least on my 2005 extended cab 2500 HD. I could access and change this sensor by blind feel reaching up between the frame and the LH bed side.
I made sure there was no crud on top to drop in the tank and kill the fuel pump and spread through the fuel system... GM bean counters decided it was a good idea to de-content these trucks by removing the inline fuel filter. A backpack blower with an elbow would've made quick work of any loose dirt and I did use one out of paranoia even tho I didn't feel any dirt or sand.

The new sensor shows negative tank pressure values, indicating vacuum, when the purge valve is open and the vent valve is closed. No sucking from the filler and the PCM now aborts the test when the vacuum reaches a low enough point. It shows 0.00in Hg with no commands to the Evap solenoid valves. No more MIL? It won't run an Evap test with the engine temps up but I'd say it's fixed.

It finally got around to running and passing the EVAP readiness test after 5 weeks. All the other emissions monitors ran and passed within 3 days and there were no pending codes it just didn't feel like doing it.

[hatzie]

I changed out most of the fluids within days of getting her home.
I have some pics of the G2 rear axle cover and the 24204278 transmission pan. If I can find them I may edit them into this post.

My oil pressure gauge was rock steady on the centre line with it running when I brought her home.

6 quarts Mobil1 5W30 and a Baldwin B31 oil filter. Now the oil pressure gauge moves with the engine RPMs.

I changed out the oil in the front and rear diff with 88900401 AC Delco 10-4016 75W90 Synthetic GL5 gear oil with NO Limited Slip Additive that's claimed by some to smell like grape juice... It smells like brimstone just like I expected. I paid $11/qt to Summit for 10 qts. I figured the low price might not last... It's gone up to $18/qt and it's back down under $17 now.
The front diff actually calls for 80W90 dinosaur juice but the 75W90 synthetic should be just fine. The front is an open diff but I have a G80 locker in the rear axle so I don't want to use anything with limited slip additive in that and the front axle just doesn't care... Just need to be aware...

The 10.5" 14bolt fill plug was set up tighter than a drum in the casting. I broke off a 3/8" square extension and a socket purpose made to remove square recess drain and fill plugs. That was enough... I just replaced the cover with a G2 Aluminum unit that didn't claim to add fluid capacity. The replacement cover has a thermal sensor bung at the factory fluid level as well as a fill and drain bung so I can drain and re-fill from a more accessible location.
The fun little gotcha with this cover is it's drilled for the 3/8" bolts used on the old GM 10.5" 14bolt axles. The 2005 2500HD has an AAM 10.5" 14bolt with 8mm cover bolts... Essentially the same axle but some nit picky little changes... I made up some spacer sleeves out of 3/8" copper tube that threaded down the bolts and filled the space between the holes in the cover and the 8mm bolts nicely. The actual clearance is tighter than the 3/8" bolts that came with the cover.
No pictures. It's painted black so it doesn't scream "I'm Here!!!"
I'm not sold on how wonderful an aftermarket axle cover with a different internal profile really is... I've been watching Gale Banks axle cover series with interest. I'm probably going to TIG an O2 bung into the factory cover at the correct fluid height and put it back on the axle in the spring.

The NV263HD Transfer Case took just under 2 quarts of the GM reccomended Manual Transmission and Transfer case replacement for Dexron III... 88861800 AC Delco 10-4033. It was $7/qt or thereabouts compared to the Dexron III "compatible" oil from Mobil that was around $15/qt.

The axle and transfer case oils weren't black as pitch and they didn't have pretty shiny flakes of metal either but they weren't nice and clean... I've drained and re-filled the axles and transfer case once more to make sure they were running clean oil.

I changed the strainer and oil in the 4L80E. The oil was your standard not so clean ATF. Not filthy but not super clean either. It probably had been run all of the 84,000 miles the odometer showed.
I used Dexron VI. The Delco fluid was cheaper than the WalMart Supertech this time even with shipping. Dexron VI is Dexron VI. Get whatever is the least expensive.
I replaced the GM stamped steel pan with a GM 24204278 stamped steel drain pan that has an actual drain plug... Yet more decontenting from the 1999-2002 models.
I replaced the flexible magnet in the old pan with an M74 Allison 1000 transmission fluid filter magnet. This is the magnet that GM recommended in a TSB for the 4T65E and 4L60.
The WIX filter came with a flat gasket but the stock GM pan gasket is re-usable... so I did.
Make sure the strainer seal is replaced and be careful to not gouge up the bore where it seats. I've read posts by guys that didn't replace that seal and "Can't figure out why the transmission won't work."...
I also installed a Magnefine filter in the radiator cooler output line. The new filters have spun metal housings rather than the old much counterfeited HDPE plastic housings. I have yet to cut a used one open with my huge pipe cutter. I'll post pictures when I do.
The goal is to be able to change the accessible 25 micron Magnefine filter every other engine oil change... and change the Dexron in the pan out every 2-4 oil changes.
The strainer is 110 microns and the Magnefine is a much finer 25 microns with its' own magnet. So... In theory, changing the inexpensive Magnefine and scheduled easy ATF changes should keep the ATF and strainer and pan magnet clean enough that the pan should never need to be dropped again barring solenoid or some other internal failure.

I'll be replacing the factory KNP AUX transmission fluid cooler with a 40,000 lb Hayden Tru Cool 47391 LPD unit and installing a fresh Magnefine filter in the line between the radiator fluid cooler and the AUX cooler.
There's a fellow on Performance trucks that sells a kit to use the factory AUX transmission cooler lines on the GMT800.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...rdware-508374/

I installed a Hayden Tru Cool transmission cooler on my 2009 Impala SS several years ago using the GM AC Delco 191300039 Jiffy Tite line adapter fittings that screw right into the Hayden threaded fittings.
I had to fab the brackets for the Impala and make up the mating tubing with my MasterCool HydraFlare and Parker Bead tools. I used constant tension band clamps. It looks close to stock and by golly it doesn't slide around and leak like some of the Micky Mouse hose setups I've seen on some rigs.

I haven't done the power steering or flushed out the old black brake fluid... The brakes desperately need a flush with fresh fluid. I bet this stuff is the original 2005 GM DOT3 fluid they poured in it on the line.

[hatzie]

Found some more decontenting to work around.

The 2003-2013 GMT800 & GMT900 trucks don't have a cabin air filter.

Call me odd but I like to keep the pollen and other organic crud out of the AC evaporator so it doesn't grow microscopic critters like Legionella bacteria and Black Mold to kill me.


GM PI1216 is the GM service bulletin that pertains to adding this nice little feature back onto our trucks. NHTSA link to the PDF PI1216 Cabin_filter.pdf
Rumor has it that not all of the 2003-2013 GMT800 & GMT900 trucks are capable of this upgrade. Note the caveat in the opening lines of the PI about RPO C67...

Using GM parts...

1. 22759208 GM housing cover and screw.
2. AC Delco CF194 Paper Cabin Air Filter
3. 23101674 GM Activated carbon cabin air filter
4. AC Delco CF193C Activated carbon Cabin Air filter.

Using Dorman Parts...

1. Dorman 259-100 Cabin Air filter cover plate with screw
2. Dorman 259-200 Paper Cabin Air filter retrofit kit (GM 22759208 & CF194)
3. Dorman 259-000 Paper Cabin Air filter
4. Dorman 259-201 Activated Carbon Cabin Air filter retrofit kit (GM 22759208 & 23101674).
5. Dorman 259-001 Activated carbon Cabin Air filter.
   

I like activated carbon filters, and rodents don't, so I installed a Dorman 259-201 kit in my truck using a Dremel to cut open the bottom of the air handler housing as outlined in the above GM Service Bulletin. It fits like a glove. Sorry I didn't take pictures. Read the PI there's no difference.
BTW I can't find a valid reason to re-install the beauty cover on the bottom of the air handler. It appears it's just bling... I'd rather they deleted that than the cabin filter.

[hatzie]

I did buy the GM service manuals... and not used and beat to a pulp for $800 from the Manual Mafia on evilbay.

Buyer beware. The Carnies are looking for Marks.

Helm Inc shipped BRAND NEW Service and Wiring Manuals USPS to my door in 3 days for a $528.00 total price tag... USPS and all. Still shockingly high but it is NINE volumes... yep I really said nine.

Not terribly pleased with them packing Nine volumes in ONE single wall cardboard box.
I was VERY DISAPPOINTED and bordering on angry with the packaging. The box opened up in shipping and I didn't accept delivery til I verified the contents were intact. Entire volumes could've been damaged quite badly or some could've been lost.
All nine volumes did arrive with the covers still attached and I was able to straighten the bent pages on the volumes at the ends of the stack with a heated flat iron. Only the back cover of the wiring volume was creased. Lady luck was smiling on me...

My other gripe is that the wiring manual was glued with the page numbers against the binding and the volume names are not printed on the spines. Not sure what's happening at Helm but it appears they are not all that they once were.

The contents are without equal even with the shipping and binding issues. Even Motor professional service manuals don't compare to real OEM service manuals.


The GMPT05/TURM is out of stock right now and $275 is a bit much for the two volume Transmission Unit Repair Manuals I've seen for $100-$130.

I do have both volumes of the 2001, 2004, & 2006 Unit Repair Manuals. I'm gonna hazard a guess that they'll do for now.

[hatzie]

A buddy just gifted me his 2005 Transmission Unit Repair Manual... He sold his latest 2005 Impala SS.

It's loose leaf so I may scan this one over Christmas. I bet he won't be able to deal with not having one of his favorite toys... I predict he gets another 04 or 05 Impala SS in the next 6 months. He's had nine of them. Built em and sold em when he wasn't working on them anymore.

[notsolo]

Nice clean truck, we'll worth your time, all upgrades and restorations are looking good.

[Flying Hamster]

If your gas tank is above 3/4 full, the evap doesn't run it's test.
That may be why it took so long to reset

[hatzie]

I purposely didn't fill it up.

It runs between 1/4 and 3/4 IIRC. When it darn well pleases. The Evap test not running on these is notorious. It'll run if you park right next to the interstate and drive 5 minutes immediately after a stone cold morning startup at 50mph.
This is the kinda BS the EPA flunkies dreamed up.

[Keith Seymore]

Subscribing -

I've got an '04 2500HD Duramax, so I'll be following along to see what tidbits I can pick up (like the lighting stuff).

K

[Keith Seymore]

Can you give me a bit more detail about the steering wheel swap, please?

Where did you get the new wheel, working with the air bag, dealing with the horn components, etc.

K

[hatzie]

I re-used the same airbag. I used Windex on a cloth to clean the vinyl.
The brand new wheel was on Evilbay. You can find em with controls and without. My truck already had the UK3 controls so I got a wheel with the same.
You obviously want to make sure the new wheel is centered in the same position as the old one. IIRC there's a wide locator spline but don't depend on my memory.

You can get badly hurt by the airbags so this is for entertainment only... do this at your own risk...

Discharge any static in your body. Touching the metal body of the truck several times is good enough.

Disable the ZONE 3 SIR system.

1. Remove the ignition key so you're sure the ignition is OFF.
2. Pull the SIR fuse to disable the inflation system.
3. Discharge static again.
4. Disconnect the four position connector from the steering wheel module at the base of the steering column almost behind the knee bar beauty panel. The airbag connectors have CPA locks so you'll have to pull that before disconnecting.

Pull the airbag.

1. Be sure to discharge any static again...
   Treat the airbag like an unexploded bomb... because it is.
2. There are two holes in beauty cover on the back of the steering wheel center section directly behind the red circled holes in the picture ( you can see the round wire retaining springs toward the center of the wheel in the holes in this picture ). These are the spring release points for the airbag latching posts. Slip a round blunt tool into those holes ( I used a 4mm Allen key ) and gently rock the tip away from the center of the column to release the spring ( you may need a bit of force but don't be a gorilla ). The airbag should pop up slightly. Repeat on the other side.
3. Lift the airbag carefully away from the steering wheel and disconnect it. IIRC the airbag connector has a CPA lock but don't quote me on it.

DO NOT DROP IT. The service manual says if you drop an airbag it's toast. There's a height listed and it's not very high... 24" or thereabouts. I usually set the airbag face down on a beach towel on the passenger floor with the passenger door closed and locked.

• The horn wire comes out just like the older trucks... push and turn.
• Disconnect the UK3 steering wheel accessory control buttons connector in the wheel from the clockspring pigtail.
• Remove the center nut.
• My wheel came off with several sharp raps from the heel of my hands alternating from side to side on the backside of the finger ring. If it doesn't move you'll need a puller.
• Thread the clockspring wiring through the big hole in the cast aluminum center as you slide the wheel off.

Install is the reverse.
Be sure each electrical connector is tight and then push the airbag squarely back into place. It'll click on each side as the springs slide over the taper points on the posts and into the slots behind them.
Re-Enable ZONE3 SIR

EDIT *** Add Video of wheel swap.
This is LSX Matt swapping the wheel on a Tahoe with a Grant stock replacement leather wheel.

LSXMatt swapping steering wheel on a 2nd gen T800...

[GIZZ]

Why did you replace the Hummer H2 wheels? I picked up H2's for my trucks and am currently shopping for tires.

[Keith Seymore]

Thanks, Hatzie -

K

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by GIZZ

Why did you replace the Hummer H2 wheels? I picked up H2's for my trucks and am currently shopping for tires.

Personal preference. I've had em on squarebodies and they looked good. Something about them on the GMT800 didn't look right to me.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

Thanks, Hatzie -

K

No problem.

[hatzie]

Re-Keying the locks... This will be two posts. This half is building the locks.
I re-key all used vehicles after I get them. Just like a new house. New house New locks. That way I'm the only one that knows he has working keys. Not the only one with working keys but the other people that do are blissfully unaware that their keys will fit my rig or my house...

I'll sell the old locks and keys as a set of three used but working locks and two mating keys on evilbay.

There is a procedure for notifying GM of the new lock codes so that keys can be cut from your VIN. If you don't record the wafer numbers for your key and stow em with your title paperwork and/or notify GM of the new key numbers for your VIN and you loose the keys you are SOL.

Building up Ignition, Door, and Spare tire locksets from kits.

Part Numbers for my 2005 Silverado uncoded lock kits. This should be valid for the 03-07 2nd design trucks.

• 1, 704599 Strattec GM Uncoded Spare Tire Hoist Lock package. Tumblers, springs, spring loaded dust cap, and lock cylinder with parts to assemble outer lock cylinder housing with seals.
• 1, 706592 Strattec GM Uncoded door lock package. Tumblers, springs, and lock cylinder with spring loaded dust cap and outer housing.
• 1, D1469G, 15298923 AC Delco Uncoded Ignition lock kit Tumblers, springs, spring retainer bar, and lock cylinder
• 2, 15026223 GM uncut bowtie logo key

NOTE: I'll use known pedigree spray lithium or WURTH HHS to lube the locks once they're assembled in the truck rather than the tube of old separating lithium grease in the kits.

Some tech info;

1. This truck uses four different tumbler sizes (one to four) and ten cut positions on the keys. This gives you somewhere north of 1 million possible combinations... 4*4*4*4*4*4*4*4*4*4=1,048,576. There are probably 40 or so combinations you would never use but that's still over 1 million forty eight thousand five hundred combinations. Even with that many possible key combinations GM made multiple millions of these trucks... so there's probably several trucks out there made between 2003 & 2007 with the exact same 10 tumblers as mine. Since none of the locks use all 10 tumblers the keys that will work in those locks become even more common.
2. Cut position ONE is nearest the head of the key or the opening of the Ignition cylinder. The other locks don't use the positions close to the key head.
3. The deepest cuts are 4 and the shallowest cuts are 1.
4. The spare tire lock has five tumblers at cut positions 5-10. This is the only cylinder that uses position 10.
5. The door lock has seven tumblers in the middle of the key at cut positions 3-9. Funny story about 7 tumbler door keys... The owner of another Black Impala SS parked right next to my car and my mind was elsewhere so I didn't notice there were two Impala SS cars with 35% tint on the windows and Ohio plates while I was walking. I hit the remote unlock and the horn beeped... but when I got there the door wouldn't open so I assumed the latch was flaking out, got annoyed, and opened the door with my key. The key wouldn't start the car and then I noticed my coat and flashlight were missing and someone elses stuff was on the passengers' seat. I exited the car post haste... locked the door with my key and left in my car ASAP. No telling what the other person would've thought about me opening their car with my keys. It might've been a good laugh or they might've gotten very upset...
6. The ignition lock has nine tumblers at positions 1-9 but it looks like only eight tumblers at positions 2-9 actually actuate the locking bar. Tumbler 1 appears to be extraneous. I'll be interested to see whether position 1 is populated in the original ignition cylinder. This is the only cylinder that has tumblers at positions 1 & 2.

Given the above if your key was cut for tumblers 3124134242 (Not any key I have anything to do with).

• Ignition tumblers would be 312413424
• Door tumblers would be 2413424
• Spare lock tumblers would be 34242

NOTE: Any half competent locksmith should be able to cut you a key that will only open the door by only cutting positions 3-9 on the key blank. Much safer to hide one of those somewhere on the truck than one that can start it.

You can mate an existing key to a new cylinder using a semi trial and error method.
Why?
Say you bought an already keyed door lock with two new cut keys and you want to mate ignition and spare tire lock cylinders to that key so the whole truck has one key... or keys and one door lock or...
Once you know the ten key cut numbers you can get a door lock kit and build a lock to match a new already keyed ignition cylinder. The same goes for the spare hoist lock.
You can even get a decent looking door or spare tire hoist lock from a salvage yard then disassemble and re-key them to your ignition key yourself with a $20 tumbler and spring kit.

To start you need the ten tumbler numbers that will match your key... I believe any half decent locksmith can cut a key with just the tumbler numbers so you have at least one cut master key not a ground duplicate key.
I gave a locksmith the tumbler numbers I wanted to use for a re-key of my truck and built all three cylinders from there. There's a bit of translation to go from the raw tumbler numbers to the key cut numbers but he was competent and knew how to do it. I could've had him assemble the locks but where's the fun in that....
I could've just assembled the locks from the known tumbler numbers I had the locksmith cut the master keys from but being an inquisitive soul I went about it as if I didn't already know the key number and I learned a few things about these locks... The odd things that amuse someone with Asperger's.

My 2005 key has 10 cuts but, as I said above, it only has 4 different cut depths. The cut depths differ by roughly .050" so they are different enough that you can make a fair guess at what tumblers to use. I measured all the way across the key at each cut with a machinist dial caliper and came up with a fair approximation of the tumbler numbers needed. Keep in mind that GM cut some keys with the same cut depth side-by-side. This means there may only be 8 different depths and a pair of the same cut or 6 different depths and two separated paired cuts.

You'll need a decent stainless dial caliper. Even the Harbor Freight $18 dial calipers are more than capable of making this kind of measurement.
These are measurements from a used ground key. The differences between height is enough that these numbers should be close enough to get you a sequence of tumblers to test in your new cylinder.

1. =@.312"
2. =@.265"
3. =@.212"
4. =@.165"

Test your WAG by inserting the tumblers in the cylinder and testing function.
I'd do the door and/or the spare tire lock cylinders first because it's easier to visually see whether the tumblers drop to the height of the cylinder. The door gets you verified numbers on all but two of the ignition lock tumblers because #10 is only used on the spare tire lift lock.
The ignition cylinder tumblers must be pressed down against the key with a small tool to make sure the spring loaded bar is engaging the groove in the tumbler and not going past when it's fully seated. You don't want to install the springs and retaining plate in the ignition cylinder til you're fairly sure you have the correct sequence.

If you're replacing one cylinder and keeping the same keys... you could disassemble an already keyed door cylinder and have seven of the ten tumbler numbers... OR... If you have a non or barely functional ignition cylinder that you can still remove and disassemble you'll have all of the tumbler numbers with the exception of number ten.

Once the cylinder functions properly with your chosen key install the springs and, on the ignition cylinder, install the spring plate.
NOTE: The ignition tumbler springs are installed in the centre of the slot not at the ends and you should install them with the key out of the cylinder... so the tumblers are as deep into the lock as you can get them. It makes installing the spring retainer bar much easier to have a deep spring well.

The ignition lock cylinder has L shaped tumbler wafers and a spring loaded bar that mates with notches in the sides at different heights on the side of the wafers. When all nine notches line up with the bar it drops to the same diameter as the rest of the lock cylinder so it can be turned. When the key is removed the wafer springs push the wafers deeper into the cylinder past the notches and push the bar out into a groove in the outer cylinder when an incorrect or no key is inserted in the lock. The bar also locks the tumblers down keeping the ignition key in place when it's not in the off position.

2005 Silverado Ignition Cylinder kit assembly blowup. NOTE the L shaped tumblers.

2005 Silverado Ignition Tumblers and Springs. You can see the difference between the #1 & the #4 notch depths from the key.

Assembled Ignition cylinder with no key and locking bar extended at the top side of the cylinder. NOTE: I haven't staked the spring retainer in place yet.

Assembled Ignition Cylinder with the key inserted and locking bar retracted... Yes, it looks like it's still slightly proud of the cylinder but the dial caliper tells a different story. It actually measures .009" below the diameter of the cylinder.

2005 Silverado Door Lock kit assembly blowup. The Door and Spare Tire Hoist Lock cylinder tumblers appear to be similar, if not the same, parts.
The Pawl #10 and rod clip #11 shown in the blowup are not included with the lock parts kit so they will need to be liberated from the old latch. The pawl retainer clip #12 is included.

2005 Silverado Spare Tire lock kit assembly blowup. NOTE the rectangular hole tumblers. The door cylinder uses similar, if not the same, tumblers.

Assembled inner spare tire locking cylinder with tumblers extended. This is #s 1, 2, & 3 in the blowup. NOTE: There's no retaining bar like the ignition cylinder. The tumblers are a tight fit at the top of the spring well of the tumbler slot so they slide up and down but don't just pop out without tools.

Assembled inner spare tire locking cylinder with tumblers retracted.

[hatzie]

I installed a GM branded Pop-N-Lock tailgate handle lock. It's part number 17801779.

I also installed my own forge bent 10ga carbon steel Gate Keeper clone on the RH tailgate hinge to make it difficult and nasty to just walk off with my pristine tailgate. I removed one of the hinge screws and installed the forge and anvil folded, spindled, and mutilated chunk of powder coated carbon steel using a slightly longer security bolt.
This is an actual GateKeeper brand tailgate retainer that I modeled mine after.


McMaster Carr has a wide selection of security screws. I picked some of their security screws along with the matching driver bit to install these parts rather than the hex head bolt that came with the handle lock and the Socket Head Cap Screw that GateKeeper uses with their part.

I figure if it's difficult to fool with the critters will move on to an easier target. Don't be the low hanging fruit.

[truckdude239]

Dont know if u know but the 6.0 engine holds 6 qts of oil

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by truckdude239

Dont know if u know but the 6.0 engine holds 6 qts of oil

Yes. It took more oil than one 5qt jug. Did I write five?

Now I hafta look...