Modern Relic - My 66 C10 LS Longbed

[66 C10 383]

Modern Relic - That's the name I'm giving this new aspect of my truck build.

This is gonna be long so an apology is given now ... LoL

The projected plan of this build is to make it as reliable as a rock mechanically with a 5.3/4L60E, rebuilt
stock style suspension lowered about 4/4, rebuilt mid 80's disc and stock rear drums, power steering & brakes,
Vintage Air, and both the interior and exterior as close to original as my wallet will allow. Just a comfy and
reliable truck I can drive anywhere/any time I want to go. If I have to replace parts while away from home,
I can source stock style parts from any parts store.

My old build thread is so outdated and plans have drastically changed, I guess it'll just be easier to start a
whole new build thread. Basically it's a 66 C10 longbed fleetside I bought back in 2012. My last update on it
was in 2014. I didn't really have the money at the time like alot of us do. Time was also a factor. Since I
couldn't store the truck at home and had no garage, it was stored at a friend's house 50 miles away. I rarely
had the chance to get anything done to it. It sits outside and I can only work on it weather permitting.

I bought my truck from a friend as an unfinished build since he'd bought a driveable truck and he wasn't really
going to finish it anyway. It had the 250 six cylinder with the 3 speed manual. Over the course of those
2 years, I'd managed to get the stock engine and trans pulled and replaced with the next engine and tranny I had
planned on running.

The original build was based on using a 383 with TPI based fuel injection and a T56 6 speed. I wasn't decided
on the color either, ranging from Satin Black, Red and White, and several other colors as well.

The 383 is fully built with 10-1 compression, a Comp Cams hydraulic roller with 230/236 duration on 113 LSA.
AFR 190 heads and a Lingenfelter/Accel SuperRam TPI system. I was faced with either using the older OEM ECM
and finding someone who could/would tune the chips or converting to a newer ECM. I'd have to consider myself
electrically challenged when it comes to engine tuning so I was looking at the Holley HP system that is self
learning. Unfortunately, with it's $1700.00 pricetag, I'd still be running older technology and a best estimate
of about 10-12 MPG.

Fast forward to 2017 and things have changed. I've moved to a location closer to my truck although I still
can't keep it at my residence, I'm now only about a mile from it. I'm not getting any younger so I did some
"finiancial rearranging" to help fund my truck. Might not be the wisest decision, but what is life for if
you can't enjoy it some ... I've now got some cash to throw at my truck.

With years of going to car shows and seeing countless LS swaps into literally everything including a Rolls Royce
sedan, I had a hard time. "Oh look, another LS ..." and I'd walk on by ... The same friend that sold me the truck
and other guys I work with kept razzing me and telling me I needed to do an LS swap on mine. Somehow, I started
looking into it more and more and seeing the better technology, better MPG's, and better reliability, etc.

As getting older will change your perspective on life, I've decided to leave the hotrodded 383/6 speed out of
my build plans and go with an LS swap after all. Seeing as how the Holley HP system was going to cost $1700.00,
I instead found a 5.3L/4L60E from what I believe is either a '99 or '00 truck. Cost - $1200.00 with another
$100.00 for an extra set of 862 heads. It was a drive by cable setup and I was looking for a drive by wire setup
so he also tossed in all I needed to convert it to DBW. Added cost for all the DBW setup - freebie ... He also
tossed in a set of TBSS manifolds for the same freebie pricetag.

I had planned on running the DBW setup for a few reasons. It looked a little more high-tech IMHO and doing
research, found it was easier to convert to cruise control. Not being able to leave anything alone, I thought
it still needed to sound good so it's getting a new cam and for ease of mind, it's getting a slight refresh of the
upper end. The short block will remain untouched but the heads will be redone for the new cam. New valve
springs, valves ground and just generally checked out for condition. Since the heads will be coming off, now's a
good time to throw in some new lifters, too. Timing chain, oil pump, gaskets, water pump will also be swapped out.
I want to put this engine in one time and be as reliable as a rock when it's done.

Through the years of not being able to work on it, I did my research, bought parts here and there as I could and
I now have a good stash of parts to start putting on it. Basically just rebuild the suspension and brakes. ECE
parts were chosen for most of the suspension. 2.5" drop spindles so I can update to the front disc brakes, 1.5"
drop front springs, and 3" drop rear springs. ECE suggested seeing how much my longbed will drop due to more
weight in the rear so I may fine tune the drop with blocks after I get it all together and the springs have settled
in some. I'm shooting for about a 4/4 drop but I like a bit of rake so I'll have to see what it looks like at
the 4/3 drop.

Moog was chosen as new replacement parts. I decided to update to the bigger mid 80's steering linkage although
I'm staying with the original 66 arms and bushings. When I went searching for a used steering box, I went to
several salvage yards and none were to be found. I heard bad things about reman boxes, so I ordered an AC Delco
reman box from Summit. Basically just a stock steering and suspension rebuild with a dropped stance. Stock
style front disc and drum rear. This will be a driver and I'd like to make some road trips in the 300 - 500
mile range so if I get somewhere and I needed replacement parts, availablity should be good.

Some of the other parts I gathered through the years were a Vintage Air setup but I just got the stuff for the
interior since it was cheaper on the wallet. I also bought the American Autowire Classic Update wiring harness
since it allowed upgrades for later.

I've got to give a big thumbs up to Dakota Digital for their customer service. Years ago I bought their gauges
for a long past project - an 86 Cutlass - that was never used or hooked up. I called Dakota Digital to inquire
about converting the Cutlass gauges to use in my 66 dash. They told me as long as they were never powered up,
they'd convert them to the 66 free of charge ... I just had to pay shipping charges. I had them boxed up and sent
out the next day. I waited on a call for the return shipping charges ... I never got one. About 3 days later,
I had a new set of 66 Dakota Digital gauges at my doorstep ... they even returned them on their dime. Above
and beyond what they had to do ...

Well, now I'm down to only a few more parts to get. Not having a garage and having to not only build but leave
my truck outside, I didn't want to get too carried away putting on new parts only to watch then turn to rust for
the rest of the build. I've bought rebuilt front calipers and new brake hoses for the front, run new brake lines,
and for the rear I bought new brake drum springs and wheel cylinders, everything to rebuild the rear brakes.

Captainfab's brake booster and power steering box adapters will be used, I've heard nothing but good about his parts
and these look top notch. I'd like to repaint the firewall before doing the brake booster but I'm not sure if I want
to go body color or just go black, either satin or gloss. Since this won't be a full blown high quality build
I'm leaning towards just a nice spray can gloss black. Cheaper and easier to touch up ... LoL

For the engine mount setup I've again went back to ECE for their engine mounts and tranny crossmember. The main
reason for this, although more costly, I wanted to keep as many stock style parts as possible. The ECE mounts
use the newer style clamshell frame mounts and also let's the stock truck AC compressor to remain in the oem
position. To me, this offered no need for a non-stock belt or pulley system to relocate the AC up higher and
ability to reuse the stock truck accessory belts.

That's pretty much where I'm at right now. I know everyone likes pics, but with Photobucket freaking out, I'm now
without anywhere to put my pics. There seems to still be some up on my old build thread if you want to go there
for some pics of my truck. The link is here http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=540838 and
it's still listed in my signature below for now.

It's just your basic 66 longbed fleetside small back window truck. I will be getting it repainted back to stock
color for sure. I've found out it's one of the rarer colors listed in some of the other threads in the 66 section
and also in the paint and bodywork section. It's the tu-tone 536AD Dark Aqua color. Only time in my life I've
been able to own something considered "rare" and I'd like to preserve that aspect of it.

[66 C10 383]

Yeah, I've got a bunch of questions and I'll throw a few out now if anybody can help me out on a few things.

- Painting the interior - I probably won't be able to have the interior professionally painted. So that leaves the
dreaded "spray can" paint job. Wanting to stay as close to stock as possible, I've seen others mention using
the Krylon paints for the stock colors. I want the dash to be darker like the 66 should be so that calls for the
Krylon "Brushed Metallic" - Satin Caramel Latte which is the darker dash color and then the supposedly lighter
Krylon "Brushed Metallic" - Satin Champange Nouveau for the roof and door panels. This was mentioned by Lakeroadster.
Here's the thread talking about the paint, post #45: http://talk.classicparts.com/showthr...t=13928&page=3

How could you go about getting somewhat of a texture on the dash like the factory did? Doesn't have to be OEM
perfectly correct. Just somewhere close ...

I also seen where 72cs20 painted his 62 interior Dupli-Color Nissan Sunlit Sand. That looks good and if mine would
come out close to that I'd be thrilled. I'd need to find either a darker color for the dash or the above mentioned
Krylon Latte for the dash.

theastronaut also used Nissan Sunlit Sand but I believe he used a spray gun. He said his was tinted slightly darker
and thinned, all beyond my capabilities. Looks great though ...

ECE mounts and headers or manifolds - Seems everybody that I can find who's used the ECE mounts have used the
Doug Thorley THY-324Y-C headers. I've always wanted to run a set of tri-y headers ... and these fit great, look
great, and do not hang below the frame whatsoever. But the cheapest I've found is from Texas Speed at $629.00.
They also require a set of $77.00 MSD plug wires and a Lokar dipstick for another $70.00. That's a grand total
of $776.00. Anybody have other ideas what else will fit these mounts? I'm not able right now to mock up
my mounts to see if my TBSS manifolds will work. Anybody have an idea?

I've also heard the ECE mounts move the engine forward so far the stock 5.3 mechanical fan can't be used. I'm not
sure at the moment whether to run the stock mechanical fan or electric fans, & if I do electric fans do I run a
16" single fan or the dual 11" fans. If I go with the electric fans, I want something as reliable as OEM and
easily replaceable if I'm out away from home. I'd like to have the ecm control the fan(s) like the oem setup if I
go that route.

While I was at the NSRA Street Rod Nationals in Louisville, Ky I saw a display of the Dirty Dingo mounts that allow
a Sanden A/C compressor to be run in the 5.3 truck low mount position and the matching frame mounts for this setup.
That would allow me to run all my engine belts in the stock setup, again, for replacement purposes if out on the
road away from home.

I went to the Holley LS Fest in Bowling Green, Ky and was looking over the PSI Conversions LS harness. I've seen
where several builds on here have used them and never seen a complaint about them. They were offering a 10%
discount coupon so I picked up a coupon. On their website, the also offered the Dirty Dingo parts for sale.
After talking to them on the phone, I inquired if their 10% discount also included the Dirty Dingo parts they
offered and they said it did. So, I ordered the DD low mount Sanden compressor, adapter plates, and an
engine control harness.

What I'm looking for is a low mount a/c compressor so I can run a stock style belt setup with the seperate a/c belt
and stock engine accesory belt. I'd also like the low mount a/c compressor to work with some type of frame
mount that will allow me to run the TBSS manifolds. I also seen where a few guys have adapted the stock 5.3 mounts.
But I'm not sure the TBSS manifolds will work with these either.

Anybody have suggestions?