Engine removal question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

wpavlis · 01-15-2019, 09:48 PM

I am going to pull my motor in the next week or so. Truck is a 68 with the original 307. What do i hook my lifting chain to? The heads do not have accessory holes. The FSM mentions removing a head bolt and installing some eye bolts in there place. What do you guys suggest? I was thinking of removing a couple of intake bolts. Thanks for the help.

Bill

72c20customcamper · 01-15-2019, 10:00 PM

I use this. Never had a problem even pulling and installing big blocks with belhousing and trans attached

72c20customcamper · 01-15-2019, 10:03 PM

Better pick

wpavlis · 01-15-2019, 10:10 PM

Will that work with the 2 barrel carb? I believe a friend of mine has one of those.

rjs53 · 01-15-2019, 10:19 PM

Not sure about a 2bbl bolting up to that. How does your alternator bolt to it without accessory holes in the heads? I've removed intake bolts at each corner before. I suppose you could pull a couple head bolts, just don't snap one off it'll make a lot of work

wpavlis · 01-15-2019, 10:23 PM

On the 68 the alternator bracket bolts to the water pump and the rams horn header. I can take a pic tomorrow when its not dark out.

I am not sure what size the intake bolts are, but i suppose i could take the intake completely off and use 4 of them with a load leveler. I just feel there has got to be an easier way that i am missing somehow.

rjs53 · 01-15-2019, 10:33 PM

You've got the brackets my truck used to have. After looking at that plate, there's holes in the center that look to fit a 2bbl intake. If you have access to one give it a try.

**Sheepdip** · 01-15-2019, 10:47 PM

Remove 2 opposing intake bolts get longer ones (about 1") and put a chain between the corners.
Many engines are pulled like this.

**Steeveedee** · 01-16-2019, 12:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sheepdip

Remove 2 opposing intake bolts get longer ones (about 1") and put a chain between the corners.
Many engines are pulled like this.

Yup. I've done many of them this way.

**zicc1835** · 01-16-2019, 12:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steeveedee

yup. I've done many of them this way.

x3

wpavlis · 01-16-2019, 12:35 AM

Sounds like a plan. Thanks everyone!

**kwmech** · 01-16-2019, 01:15 AM

If you set the chain tight enough and don't have a lot of slack, it can be removed without removing the hood. Recently did a 350 to 454 conversion and was able to go both in and out with the hood in place.

saxart · 01-16-2019, 07:38 AM

What transmission do you have? If you have the SM465 (4 speed with granny low 1st) you will not be able to pull the engine and trans as one unit as it won't clear the underside of the cab.

72c20customcamper · 01-16-2019, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wpavlis

Will that work with the 2 barrel carb? I believe a friend of mine has one of those.

It's got multiple mounting holes so in pretty sure it would work . The intake bolt would work too

**A1971Blazer** · 01-16-2019, 11:57 AM

the factory used to sometimes leave the lifting rings on....
they were approx 1/8" sheet metal with two holes that bolted under the intake bolts and had a lifting eye
one on the front and one on the rear on opposite sides..... this balances the engine really well.

I've had this one and a few more lying around for years...
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Coley · 01-16-2019, 12:17 PM

One thing to remember is to only connect the chain to 3/8" bolts or larger.
Make sure the bolts that you use to connect the chain are at least a Grade 5 bolt....or better (Gr. 8 or Unbrako standard) and make sure you have thread engagement into the tap of at least the diameter (or more) of the bolt.....preferably more...1/2"+
Then make absolutely sure the chain you use is high quality and has a capacity rating....a 600lb piece of steel dropping from 5ft is a real bummer on the foot and on the sheet metal, lol

All good
Coley

weq92f · 01-16-2019, 02:48 PM

.
This happened to a fellow enthusiast recently when his chain let loose. You do not want this to happen...

**Mryan** · 01-16-2019, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by weq92f

.
This happened to a fellow enthusiast recently when his chain let loose. You do not want this to happen...

Ouch!

**bigmac73** · 01-17-2019, 01:42 PM

I believe i would have to walk away and get some fresh air and smoke after that one

**jeffahart** · 01-17-2019, 02:37 PM

Quick tip: Do not hoist the engine from the oil pan drain bolt!

j

jcwren · 01-17-2019, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by weq92f

.
This happened to a fellow enthusiast recently when his chain let loose. You do not want this to happen...

And this was after something like 19 miles on a rebuilt engine with a blower. It went from a bad day to a REALLY bad day.

**jocko** · 01-17-2019, 05:53 PM

Though not at all required, the engine tilt adjustable hoist is inexpensive and effective for maneuvering it slowly in/out with a trans. They are inexpensive, but primarily for lifting from intake corners, etc, not a carb plate.

**Mr_Rich** · 01-17-2019, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwmech

If you set the chain tight enough and don't have a lot of slack, it can be removed without removing the hood. Recently did a 350 to 454 conversion and was able to go both in and out with the hood in place.

It's do-able with the older trucks pre GMT400 as well. I managed this job by myself; fortunately with a flat driveway to work on. I had the front end of the truck on Rhino Ramps and the rear on jackstands.

wpavlis · 01-25-2019, 06:07 PM

Ok. Before i do something stupid. Does this look safe? I used the alternator mounting location on the drivers exhaust manifold and one of the head bolts. I may actually just use the other head bolt. Depends on how i feel about it later.

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**Grumpy old man** · 01-25-2019, 06:34 PM

NO ! it doesn't look safe or balanced at all .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9oMsoU6fEE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJPpMwcv7yc

Get some help from someone who knows what to do before you end up squished like a bug !

01-15-2019, 09:48 PM	#1
wpavlis Registered User Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: San Tan Valley, Arizona Posts: 313	Engine removal question I am going to pull my motor in the next week or so. Truck is a 68 with the original 307. What do i hook my lifting chain to? The heads do not have accessory holes. The FSM mentions removing a head bolt and installing some eye bolts in there place. What do you guys suggest? I was thinking of removing a couple of intake bolts. Thanks for the help. Bill

01-15-2019, 10:00 PM	#2
72c20customcamper Registered User Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Catskill Mountains,NY Posts: 8,737	Re: Engine removal question I use this. Never had a problem even pulling and installing big blocks with belhousing and trans attached Attached Images __________________ Mark 72 c20 custom camper Husky edition, 66 SS396 Chevelle 1964 Hawk, 63 Avanti,62 lark 1969 AMX , 1968 c20 stepside ,85 K20 1977 Suburban sold 68 anniversary.

01-15-2019, 10:03 PM	#3
72c20customcamper Registered User Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Catskill Mountains,NY Posts: 8,737	Re: Engine removal question Better pick Attached Images __________________ Mark 72 c20 custom camper Husky edition, 66 SS396 Chevelle 1964 Hawk, 63 Avanti,62 lark 1969 AMX , 1968 c20 stepside ,85 K20 1977 Suburban sold 68 anniversary.

01-15-2019, 10:10 PM	#4
wpavlis Registered User Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: San Tan Valley, Arizona Posts: 313	Re: Engine removal question Will that work with the 2 barrel carb? I believe a friend of mine has one of those.

01-15-2019, 10:19 PM	#5
rjs53 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: nevada Posts: 649	Re: Engine removal question Not sure about a 2bbl bolting up to that. How does your alternator bolt to it without accessory holes in the heads? I've removed intake bolts at each corner before. I suppose you could pull a couple head bolts, just don't snap one off it'll make a lot of work __________________ 2003 Dodge 2500 1969 C10 2014 Camaro SS/RS/1LE

01-15-2019, 10:23 PM	#6
wpavlis Registered User Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: San Tan Valley, Arizona Posts: 313	Re: Engine removal question On the 68 the alternator bracket bolts to the water pump and the rams horn header. I can take a pic tomorrow when its not dark out. I am not sure what size the intake bolts are, but i suppose i could take the intake completely off and use 4 of them with a load leveler. I just feel there has got to be an easier way that i am missing somehow.

01-15-2019, 10:33 PM	#7
rjs53 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: nevada Posts: 649	Re: Engine removal question You've got the brackets my truck used to have. After looking at that plate, there's holes in the center that look to fit a 2bbl intake. If you have access to one give it a try. __________________ 2003 Dodge 2500 1969 C10 2014 Camaro SS/RS/1LE

01-15-2019, 10:47 PM	#8
Sheepdip Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2018 Location: Waterford California Posts: 2,634	Re: Engine removal question Remove 2 opposing intake bolts get longer ones (about 1") and put a chain between the corners. Many engines are pulled like this.

01-16-2019, 12:35 AM	#11
wpavlis Registered User Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: San Tan Valley, Arizona Posts: 313	Re: Engine removal question Sounds like a plan. Thanks everyone!

01-16-2019, 01:15 AM	#12
kwmech Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Colfax-California Posts: 8,649	Re: Engine removal question If you set the chain tight enough and don't have a lot of slack, it can be removed without removing the hood. Recently did a 350 to 454 conversion and was able to go both in and out with the hood in place.

01-16-2019, 07:38 AM	#13
saxart Registered User Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: St. Croix River Valley, WI Posts: 795	Re: Engine removal question What transmission do you have? If you have the SM465 (4 speed with granny low 1st) you will not be able to pull the engine and trans as one unit as it won't clear the underside of the cab. __________________ Meet "Old Roy": http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=707801

01-16-2019, 11:57 AM	#15
A1971Blazer Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: East Tennessee Posts: 2,200	Re: Engine removal question the factory used to sometimes leave the lifting rings on.... they were approx 1/8" sheet metal with two holes that bolted under the intake bolts and had a lifting eye one on the front and one on the rear on opposite sides..... this balances the engine really well. I've had this one and a few more lying around for years... __________________ 1967 C10 Step side 1968 C10 Step side 1970 Chevrolet K/5 Blazer 1972 Chevrolet K/5 Blazer .............

01-16-2019, 12:17 PM	#16
Coley Registered User Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Victoria, B.C Posts: 3,794	Re: Engine removal question One thing to remember is to only connect the chain to 3/8" bolts or larger. Make sure the bolts that you use to connect the chain are at least a Grade 5 bolt....or better (Gr. 8 or Unbrako standard) and make sure you have thread engagement into the tap of at least the diameter (or more) of the bolt.....preferably more...1/2"+ Then make absolutely sure the chain you use is high quality and has a capacity rating....a 600lb piece of steel dropping from 5ft is a real bummer on the foot and on the sheet metal, lol All good Coley __________________ ....for some men, there is experience, skill and effort....for the others...there is visa and UPS LOL 1966 Chevy 1/2 ton (Florida- Red/white) 1972 Chevy 1/2 ton (California- Blue/white) 2005 Chevy Silverado HD2500/Duramax 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 Last edited by Coley; 01-16-2019 at 02:58 PM.

01-16-2019, 02:48 PM	#17
weq92f Registered User Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Dallas Texas Posts: 3,228	Re: Engine removal question . This happened to a fellow enthusiast recently when his chain let loose. You do not want this to happen... Attached Images __________________ 67 C10 fleet fuel injected '70 402, 700r4, 3.73 posi 07 335 sport turbo 6sp 94 Trans Am GT LT1 6sp posi -- sold after 22yrs 99 540 sport V8 6sp -- sold 73 240z L24 4sp -- given to friend 68 C10 step 350/350 3.73 open -- sold

01-17-2019, 01:42 PM	#19
bigmac73 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Chesapeake, Va Posts: 1,275	Re: Engine removal question I believe i would have to walk away and get some fresh air and smoke after that one __________________ Mike 72 C-10 Cheyenne off frame resto and Upgraded to 4 wheel disk, Tilt, Dakota Digital Dash / Rear slider. 421 SBC / TH350 3000RPM Stall Progression Ignition /Holley 750 DP/3:73 gear Eaton Limited Slip unit / 2 1/2 exhaust glasspacks



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01-17-2019, 02:37 PM	#20
jeffahart Senior Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Scottsdale, AZ Posts: 1,907	Re: Engine removal question Quick tip: Do not hoist the engine from the oil pan drain bolt! j __________________ White K20

01-17-2019, 05:53 PM	#22
jocko Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Godley, TX Posts: 17,975	Re: Engine removal question Though not at all required, the engine tilt adjustable hoist is inexpensive and effective for maneuvering it slowly in/out with a trans. They are inexpensive, but primarily for lifting from intake corners, etc, not a carb plate.

01-25-2019, 06:07 PM	#24
wpavlis Registered User Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: San Tan Valley, Arizona Posts: 313	Re: Engine removal question Ok. Before i do something stupid. Does this look safe? I used the alternator mounting location on the drivers exhaust manifold and one of the head bolts. I may actually just use the other head bolt. Depends on how i feel about it later.

01-25-2019, 06:34 PM	#25
Grumpy old man Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Gods country East,Tn Posts: 8,545	Re: Engine removal question NO ! it doesn't look safe or balanced at all . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9oMsoU6fEE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJPpMwcv7yc Get some help from someone who knows what to do before you end up squished like a bug ! __________________ 1967 Factory short bed - Old school '71 - 350 / 4bolt / 487 heads / Edelbrock C3BX Muncie M-22 4 speed / Hurst Comp plus Factory 12 bolt posi 3.73 / 255-70-15 Smoothed firewall / Factory cowl induction Power disc brakes / power steering / 3.5-5" drop Last edited by Grumpy old man; 01-25-2019 at 08:28 PM.

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