Trailing arm perch spacing.....measurement.

[spudder]

I've searched but haven't found the center line dimension between the trailing arm perches. Planning on swapping a mid '80s rear end into a '64.
I want to go ahead and get the rear end modified for the swap by adding a panhard bar bracket and the trailing arm perches.
The truck is going to be at stock height so pinion angle won't change.
Can anyone provide these measurements:
1) trailing arm perch side to side center line distance
2) original pinion angle

I don't have an original rear end here to measure. That's why I'm requesting help from the forum.
Thanks

[bigmoe]

I just put a square body rear end in my 65 bare frame. It's kind of hard to weld your perches on at the proper pinion angle with the axle out of the truck because the perches don't sit level like with a leaf rear suspension. Sitting on the trailing arms they lay at an angle. What I did was bolt it all together without welding the perches. The rear u bolts at the widest (rearward) are 41 3/4" on center. Get it centered left and right and snug it up slightly with the pinion pointing slightly upward. Then with the full truck weight on the wheels measure and adjust it to the proper angle. Once you get it set tack the perches, then lower the axle and fully weld it.

[Captainfab]

I could get you that info when I get to my shop tomorrow, if someone else doesn't first.

[ivanandjuri]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I could get you that info when I get to my shop tomorrow, if someone else doesn't first.

I am swapping a 1999 ford 8.8 into my 69 c10 what useful info could you give me? I’ve already shaved all old perches off and ordered new perches to weld on.
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[PGSigns]

Here is a way to get the pinion angle set. Bolt the rear in the truck with out the springs or shocks hooked up. Ensure it is centered with the trailing arms. Raise the rear end up to the desired ride height and set it on jack stands. Then match the angle of the rear to the angle of the trans or the front drive shaft depending on one or two piece drive shaft. Tighten the ubolts till they are firmly holding the rear and recheck your angles. Tack weld the perches and remove the rear end. Stitch weld the perches to reduce how much heat you put into the housing so that you done pull the ends out of alignment.
Jimmy

[demian5]

And to eliminate the issue of the panhard bar mount, just get a deluxe track bar kit that has a longer bar and puts the mount on the trailing arm with a new bracket.

I just did this when swapped out a 80s caprice classic (5 on 5 bolt pattern) posi rear diff. It has perches for a 60-62 on it and a track bar mount. Trying to get rid of it. Its kind of wide.

When I put the rear 12-bolt in out of a late 60's truck, I had the luxury and was able to use the existing perches to get the right pinion angle when the new, wider apart ones were installed.

Here is what I had to do:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...0&postcount=23

[Tonys1963]

Originally Posted by ivanandjuri

I am swapping a 1999 ford 8.8 into my 69 c10 what useful info could you give me? I’ve already shaved all old perches off and ordered new perches to weld on.
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Im curious to see how well this fits. Will the offset of the rearend cause an issue with the trailing arm mount? Im contemplating the same swap.

[ivanandjuri]

Originally Posted by Tonys1963

Im curious to see how well this fits. Will the offset of the rearend cause an issue with the trailing arm mount? Im contemplating the same swap.

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[scoot_mcgrute]

Originally Posted by Tonys1963

Im curious to see how well this fits. Will the offset of the rearend cause an issue with the trailing arm mount? Im contemplating the same swap.

I didn't have any problems from this swap last year. I did it the guess and check way by bolting the axle to the trailing arms, getting it mostly centered and then tacking it all together.

Mock up


Final install

[ivanandjuri]

Originally Posted by scoot_mcgrute

I didn't have any problems from this swap last year. I did it the guess and check way by bolting the axle to the trailing arms, getting it mostly centered and then tacking it all together.

why did u use spacers inbetween perch and trailing arm?
Mock up


Final install

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[ivanandjuri]

Originally Posted by scoot_mcgrute

I didn't have any problems from this swap last year. I did it the guess and check way by bolting the axle to the trailing arms, getting it mostly centered and then tacking it all together.

why did u use spacers inbetween perch and trailing arm?
Mock up


Final install

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[scoot_mcgrute]

Originally Posted by ivanandjuri

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I used lowering blocks, I'm at a 5/7 drop with my truck.

[demian5]

Originally Posted by scoot_mcgrute

Mock up

I want to see a picture of the passenger side shock mounted.
Doesn't that pan hard bar hit the cover?

[scoot_mcgrute]

Originally Posted by demian5

I want to see a picture of the passenger side shock mounted.
Doesn't that pan hard bar hit the cover?

I didn't take a picture of the passenger side shock but it is identical to the driver side shock, I used the No Limit rear shock relocation kit. The panhard bar does not hit the cover, there's still room to pull the cover without hitting anything.

[drmatera]

Ive got an 8.8 Explorer rear end for my GMC as well. My truck is a leaf spring set up but I'm considering the swap to trailing arms.

[ChadW]

Im putting a chevy 10 bolt in my 66...so is the measurment from ubolt to ubolt on the trailing arms the same as above? 41 3/4" ??