Need input on coilover kit

[LPoole]

Howdy. I have a 68 swb fleetside that I want to put a full front and rear coilover kit on. Im looking at these cpp kits and just wanted some input. Pros, cons... opinions on price... and so forth. If you have either or both of these kits on your truck, do you recommend them? Do these kits have everything I need or will I need to make other purchases? I was also looking at the QA1 kits but they are priced quite a bit higher. Just looking for some good, solid info before I pull the trigger. Thank you very much.

http://www.classicperform.com/coilov...387FCO-K-B.htm
http://www.classicperform.com/coilov.../rear-kits.htm

[EdEver]

Just received the QA1 kit today looking forward to installing it. Looks real nice.

[Scurry67]

Originally Posted by EdEver

Just received the QA1 kit today looking forward to installing it. Looks real nice.

I'm getting real close to pulling the trigger on the QA1 front/rear kits. What spring rates did you go with?

Al

[special-K]

Could someone enlighten me on the point of these coilover conversions? Not being critical of people modifying these trucks, as some seem to obsess over. I really want to know. I will admit my reason for asking, or having any trace of negativity is these trucks already ride on coils and have always had a reputation for their superior ride. If there is something to learn here, please teach me.

[Stickman]

I just ordered a CPP Front Coilover kit for use with factory control arms, part #6387-COK-2A-550. Unfortunately it's on BO for two more weeks! The reason I went with the kit was ride, handling and 5" height adjustability. The kit comes with Viking shocks and hardware. There's a good write up on the install of the kit with the CPP tubular control arms in the Oct 2018 edition of Classic Trucks.

[sauxs]

I have a 70 c10 I'm going to put front and rear coilovers on. I am considering Ridetech, No Limit or QA1. I am interested in knowing what the clearance is on the front crossmember and lower control arms.

[HalfCaseKustoms]

I have been putting money aside for the QA1 kit myself. I have never installed one on these trucks bit I have installed plenty of different brand kits on g-bodies and qa1 gets my vote.

[special-K]

Originally Posted by Stickman

I just ordered a CPP Front Coilover kit for use with factory control arms, part #6387-COK-2A-550. Unfortunately it's on BO for two more weeks! The reason I went with the kit was ride, handling and 5" height adjustability. The kit comes with Viking shocks and hardware. There's a good write up on the install of the kit with the CPP tubular control arms in the Oct 2018 edition of Classic Trucks.

Ok, thanks. I figured it might be a handling thing. I'm stalled on my shortbed, haven't looked at products for that in years. Just keeping the 4wd going/improving. I've always found the factory ride to be very nice and with coils and shocks separate I can tailor the ride with a plethora of shock options. That much ride height adjustment is an awesome plus. My truck has the era hot truck vibe and I'd like to be able to load it up or tow for long trips. It has 4/6 static presently, which I like, but want the option off giving it a rake and getting the axle away from the frame with no c-notch with weight on it.

[Stickman]

Originally Posted by special-K

Ok, thanks. I figured it might be a handling thing. I'm stalled on my shortbed, haven't looked at products for that in years. Just keeping the 4wd going/improving. I've always found the factory ride to be very nice and with coils and shocks separate I can tailor the ride with a plethora of shock options. That much ride height adjustment is an awesome plus. My truck has the era hot truck vibe and I'd like to be able to load it up or tow for long trips. It has 4/6 static presently, which I like, but want the option off giving it a rake and getting the axle away from the frame with no c-notch with weight on it.

Special K,I think the biggest reasons I went with the CPP kit was they were the only company that I could find offering a kit you could use with your stock control arms and also the use of the Viking shocks. Rob from No Limit said the Vikings were a top of the line product which he has used and supplies them on some of his kits. I want to keep my Highlander as stock as possible other than the Altitude, otherwise I would have gone with a Porterbuilt or No Limit crossmember with coilovers.

[LPoole]

Originally Posted by HalfCaseKustoms

I have been putting money aside for the QA1 kit myself. I have never installed one on these trucks bit I have installed plenty of different brand kits on g-bodies and qa1 gets my vote.

I really like the looks of the QA1 front and rear kits. The videos I've seen of them being installed makes them look fairly easy to work with. It's just the price that has made me look hard at the CCP kit. Still kicking it around. It's only money, right?

[mikl911]

Originally Posted by LPoole

I really like the looks of the QA1 front and rear kits. The videos I've seen of them being installed makes them look fairly easy to work with. It's just the price that has made me look hard at the CCP kit. Still kicking it around. It's only money, right?

Shop around the QA1 stuff is cheaper at Jegs and Summit racing then it is on the QA1 site by a lot!!

[Longhornss]

Originally Posted by special-K

Could someone enlighten me on the point of these coilover conversions? Not being critical of people modifying these trucks, as some seem to obsess over. I really want to know. I will admit my reason for asking, or having any trace of negativity is these trucks already ride on coils and have always had a reputation for their superior ride. If there is something to learn here, please teach me.

Special-K
You are correct in the superior ride quality of these trucks in stock form. However I personally like the look of these truck riding lower. For me I personally use my truck as Daily and will never carrier anything more than weekend travel essentials and a cooler. so for me converting to a coil over suspension is all about the look.

However I have driven several of these trucks both stock and with the QA1 Suspensions and let me tell you that relocating the coil spring to behind the axle and having the shock as far outboard as where QA1 mounts the shock. improves the ride and handling of the truck even more.

[Longhornss]

Originally Posted by LPoole

I really like the looks of the QA1 front and rear kits. The videos I've seen of them being installed makes them look fairly easy to work with. It's just the price that has made me look hard at the CCP kit. Still kicking it around. It's only money, right?

I have installed CPP stuff before. Go with the QA1.
I am working on installing the third kit currently on a 67 C15, I have previously done a 64 full kit and a 65 rear kit using the stock trailing arms, this truck has CPP front stuff as that is what was available at the time. I personally liked the fit and finish of the QA1 better and I feel there support is also better.
The only down side to a QA1 kit is that they only work with SQUAREBODY spindles because QA1 builds the control arms to the larger ball joint spec as these use a "custom" QA1 low friction ball joint. So if you are not planning on changing the spindles. you will have to look else ware.

[p0508]

There's a statement that usually stands true with a few exceptions. You get what you pay for.

Will the cpp stuff work. More then likely

Is it less engineered and lower quality. Yes.

CPP is the harbor freight of the parts world.

Which is absolutely ok and fine for some and not for others. It really comes down to how much you want to spend and what you're comfortable with.

[Mbeef61]

What is everyone doing for the qa1 rears? With the trailing arms or without? There is a big price difference

[SIXTY9]

I bought the QA1 kit without the rear arms. I am very happy with the install so far. I will not be doing any auto crossing with it. Got mine at JEGS cheaper than others.

[josephuta214]

Originally Posted by Stickman

I just ordered a CPP Front Coilover kit for use with factory control arms, part #6387-COK-2A-550. Unfortunately it's on BO for two more weeks! The reason I went with the kit was ride, handling and 5" height adjustability. The kit comes with Viking shocks and hardware. There's a good write up on the install of the kit with the CPP tubular control arms in the Oct 2018 edition of Classic Trucks.

Did this kit work out for you? Did you have to modify your factory arms? Thanks

[1970 CST Short Wide]

I have QA1 front and rear. I already had solid rear control arm so so I did not go with there’s. My Sons truck has the rear control arms, the nice thing about them is you can easily change pinion angle. I bought the full front and rear suspension with sway bars because I was tired of not finding a shock I really liked, seems I was always sacrificing something with the way it rode I now have 18 selections to choose from. Hugh difference in Handling and Ride.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by special-K

Could someone enlighten me on the point of these coilover conversions? Not being critical of people modifying these trucks, as some seem to obsess over. I really want to know. I will admit my reason for asking, or having any trace of negativity is these trucks already ride on coils and have always had a reputation for their superior ride. If there is something to learn here, please teach me.

Adjustability & adding something new/better (?).... that's it.

I'm 101% w/you on the 'Why?' of swapping to C/O's for these trucks that already have coils @ all four corners since they work great as-is. But the ability to dial in the spring rate to what the driver/owner wants is a strong attraction.

You might be ok w/stock coils 'as-is' ride feel where I might want something slightly stiffer/softer.... For this reason, I get it. But, the reality is how many actually take advantage of the C/O swap to truly dial things in vs defaulting to what comes w/the 'kit' per manufacturers recommendation/spec?? Twist the knob on the shocks. Easy enough to do. But how many actually try different spring rates (which is where the C/O swap offers more tunability)?

One of the main things I don't like about some of these recent kits is the fact that in order to keep things 'bolt-on', it limits the dimensions of the C/O. Those dimensions impact the shock & coil length which can & does impact the ride quality. Any impact on ride quality requires more tuning knowledge & sometimes (many times?) it might require compromising spring rate or shock adjustments to find a happy-medium.

The longer the spring & shock, the better the ride quality in most cases.
Any bolt-on kit that doesn't include re-worked upper/lower mounting locations are a waste of time & money IMHO.

Originally Posted by 1970 CST Short Wide

I have QA1 front and rear. I already had solid rear control arm so so I did not go with there’s. My Sons truck has the rear control arms, the nice thing about them is you can easily change pinion angle. I bought the full front and rear suspension with sway bars because I was tired of not finding a shock I really liked, seems I was always sacrificing something with the way it rode I now have 18 selections to choose from. Hugh difference in Handling and Ride.

While I understand this, one can get adjustable shocks + different sway-bars that work w/the OE coil spring arrangement as well.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by special-K

Could someone enlighten me on the point of these coilover conversions? Not being critical of people modifying these trucks, as some seem to obsess over. I really want to know. I will admit my reason for asking, or having any trace of negativity is these trucks already ride on coils and have always had a reputation for their superior ride. If there is something to learn here, please teach me.

A coliover has a 1-1 relationship between the coil and shock, easier to calculate. When the shock is mounted further out on the arm at an angle (stock), the amount shock moves with the spring and the angle changing with suspension movement the relationship of movement is not linear. Dampening changes with suspension movement on a stock suspension. OEM's must figure this into design of the vehicle. When one starts modifying, the OEM specs are out the window.