Project: Analysis Paralysis 1950 3100

[Dongray]

Well after having the truck for almost two years now and hardly making any forward progress I decided to set a completion date. Im shooting to have it assembled by the end of Summer 2019....paint optional for now. That being said I have also been informed I will be on a significant amount of travel for the next few months but I will try to keep an optimistic outlook on it.

The goals I have for the project have evolved somewhat over time but are still pretty much the same.

1. Remove all rust and bondo and replace with patch panels where needed
2. Maintain stock frame with little to no modifications
3. Maintain stock suspension by lowering stance using dropped axle, new leaf springs and blocks.
4. Replace 235 with 261 scratch that, 292.
5. Replace axle tube and rear axle with 8.8 explorer 3.73 rear axle
6. Paint

Here is what it looked like when I first got it. Really wish I had taken my time lookint at websites to decide if I wanted to stay, stock, resto or patina....needless to say I started sanding and lost any chance of going the patina route...oh well live and learn. Maybe the next one.

[MiraclePieCo]

Looks like terrific truck to start with. Keep us posted please.

[8man]

Looking forward to the progress and pictures of same.

[Dongray]

As I said I started this over a year ago and was significantly delayed. It feels like Im finally making some head way in the several of weeks. I finally got the 3" sids dropped axle installed along with posie springs all around. I do have 3" blocks for the back but still havent mocked up the rear axle to see just how low it will be.
This weekend I mangaged to get the front wheels on with some temporary rollers. The tires are tiny at 185s but they were only 5 bucks to have them installed on the wheels and will work until I can afford white walls.
I thought the bottom of the axle would be the lowest point but noticed the tie rod is actually lower and every so slightly lower than the scrub line.

Hopefully tomorrow the rear axle will be temporarily installed with wheels on so she can roll. Im really itching to get wheels on the ground and cab on so I can mock up the 292.
Really enjoy doing this, Im crazy slow but enjoy getting in the garage and messing around.

[8man]

Good progress, keep it up.

[NorCalGal]

Nice truck to start with. Looking forward to watching this build.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Looked pretty good as it was. But, if you've already started sanding and have a mixed bag of finishes on it take a look at my build thread. Early on I painted mine with ordinary Rustoleum Satin paint. Sage Green in my case but there are a number of colors you might consider to get it all back to one color.

Best of luck. You've set a pretty aggressive goal doing it all yourself and with time traveling.

[mongocanfly]

nice truck you got there!!!!.....

[Dongray]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Looked pretty good as it was. But, if you've already started sanding and have a mixed bag of finishes on it take a look at my build thread. Early on I painted mine with ordinary Rustoleum Satin paint. Sage Green in my case but there are a number of colors you might consider to get it all back to one color.

Best of luck. You've set a pretty aggressive goal doing it all yourself and with time traveling.

That looks much better than I would have thought from a rattle can! I toy with the idea of repainting the fenders to match the old paint but I figure its this far along and all apart I should bite the bullet and get it painted in the end. Nothing high gloss and fancy just an old truck paint job. I will definitely be looking at your build for tips.

I did laugh to myself when putting out that goal. Im hoping it just gets me to chip away at it several nights aweek at a minimum.

[Dongray]

As usual things take longer than expected. The rear axle didnt get installed last weekend but got most of it done today and it appears to be centered.... I dropped a plum line on the both sides of the frame and centered the axle based on the distance from the end of the axle to the plum bob.....not sure if this was the right way but I think I read it somewhere here on the forum. Does anyone know what tolerance is acceptable for centering the axle?

I will say it is going to look real funny with the little 185 tires on all four wheels but as long as I can move it around in the garage Ill be happy.

I sent my 292 off to the machine shop finally and just hope the block and head are in good shape. It surprising how difficult it can be to find 292s. I bought my first one up in Oklahoma about 3 hours drive from home. It was covered up and sitting in a field. pulled off the tarp and it actually looked really good and only paid 120 for it....needless to say once it was at the machine shop they found a crack...where the starter mounts to the block. Decided not to use it and started searching again.I found several but people were asking 5-600 for them and there was no proof they even ran so kept looking and finally found one for 200, I would hate to be out 200 on another bad engine but it is much easier to swallow than 600.

So I still need a carb and an intake manifold and I remembered the gentlemen that sold me the last engine mentioned he was planning on using a triple side draft weber but went a different direction and was thinking of selling it. So I gave him a call and he offered to send it to me to look over and make a decision. I have always loved the way the look and am seriously considering purchasing it.

Does anyone have any experience with these carbs? I hear they can be difficult to get set up but work pretty well once dialed it. I was also concerned about fitment under the hood. I am already squeezing a 292 in there so space is tight. I know it is even less period correct than the 292 but damn they look cool.

[mongocanfly]

your on track with the rear axle...side2side is good as you did it..but also triangulate the rear axle..measure across the front of the frame and find your center there...then measure from that point to each end of the axle tube..this will assure the axle is square with the frame...
all I know about multiple carbs is (trouble x # of carbs=headaches)

[Dongray]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

your on track with the rear axle...side2side is good as you did it..but also triangulate the rear axle..measure across the front of the frame and find your center there...then measure from that point to each end of the axle tube..this will assure the axle is square with the frame...
all I know about multiple carbs is (trouble x # of carbs=headaches)

Thanks again Mongo! That makes total sense. I do it on construction projects and checked the frame for square when I started the project but didnt consider it for the axle. Any thoughts on whether it is measured while on jacks or should it be wheels on the ground?

Thanks1

[mongocanfly]

I may have have gotten your truck mixed up with another...I was thinking your were changing the rear suspension setup....if your keeping the stock spring setup there won't be any need to triangulate.....just center the axle like you were doing...

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Dongray

That looks much better than I would have thought from a rattle can!

Thanks. Yeah, I was surprised how well the Rustoleum worked and held up.

I don't know how much of the thread you read but I was originally going to spray it with rattle can primer. But I didn't want light gray or red oxide because everyone does that so I sprayed it with Duplicolor primer that came in a medium green. I thought that would work well but it didn't. It started showing rust through the primer really quickly.

That's when I took a trip to Home Depot for something better and found the Rustoleum Sage Green in Satin. Satin is the trick. Not flat and not gloss so it doesn't show "stripes" if you don't apply it evenly. Anyway, that was my experience. It lasted a couple years with no rust, I touched it up here and there if it got chipped and it didn't show. Best of luck.

[Dongray]

We have touch down! Four wheels on the ground again!!! but holy crap it is low. I have a 3 " dropped axle and posies on the front and you cant fit a 4x4 under the axle. I do have those tiny 185 tires so it should come up another 2 or 3 inches when going to 225s. I havent measured the rear yet but I think it is right at scrub line. The rear is posies springs and 3" blocks which I might just cut down to two inches.

Note to self for next project, shortening wheel studs with a sawzall is a major pain in the arse, a cutting wheel makes quick work of it and is straighter. It is amazing the small things you learn to make it easier, just think how easy the next truck will be, lol.

[mongocanfly]

wow...that is low......I wouldn't change ride height until you get the body and drive train installed

[oldman3]

Dongray, please don't take this the wrong way. I just want to point out a few things, based on my own use.

#1. Don't know your wheel size, but a 185/75/15 is 24.97" tall, lets call it 25"
a 225/75/15" tire is 28.05" tall lets call it 28" (based on my Cooper tire
book). 25" divided by half is 12.5" and 28" divided by half is 14". 14"
minus 12.5" equal 1.5". This is how much it will raise the distance from
I-beam to the ground.

#2. You talked about scrub line. The picture of you front end can be taken
at a angle, and I may be completely wrong. But if you take a straight
edge, and go bottom of wheel to bottom of wheel, you axle would be
right on the ground (remember I may be wrong). If this is true the only
way to change scrub line is to go to a larger wheel diameter wheel. A
16" wheel would give you and additional 1/2" clearance.

Hope I didn't step on any toes, just don't want you buying new tires and then find out you need different wheels...Jim

[Dongray]

No problem Oldman I appreciate the input. The angle does make it look worse but the axle is almost even with the bottom of the wheels. From everything I have read it appears there are two different ways to measure the scrub line, the more conservative way as you did where if both tires blow out your screwed and the bottom of wheel to bottom of opposite tire method which accounts for one completely flat tire ever occurring. If I use the second method it is good....that being said there may 17" wheels in the future and I will sell the 15". Thanks again!

[Dongray]

Im embarrassed to say this but I cut the freakin rear wheel studs too short, SOB! I measured them with the spacer in place but the rotor? What rotor? Now I am punching the short ones out and trying to install the longer ones. I dont have a press so just using several over size washers and pulling the stud through by tightening the lug nuts, what a pain in the arse talk about slow going.

I got the rear drivers side new wheel studs, wheel and disc brakes completely installed and am working on replacing the wheel studs on the passenger side. I didnt have the pin or the c-clips installed on the passenger axle and while turning it to get to the next stud the spider gears fell out of the differential, Unbelievable!! It was late, I was tired and probably should have quit earlier. I wasnt planning on learning about how to fix a rear diff. but I guess I really didnt want to install the cab this weekend. As frustrating as it was I would rather be doing this than be at work!

So now next weekend plans will be to temp install cab, radiator mount and mock up the engine so I can install the 292 motor mounts.