71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

[rechinca]

I like the idea of the build threads as it makes it easier to track what we all do when we set course on our builds. Plus we can link in our questions/issues from other sections of the board. I have been on it since July last year and figured it was time to get started my build documentation. I call him the Sloth because it’s not going to be a high performance crazy build (at this point) and it’s not going to be completed in a quick fashion.

Back story, I Gee up with these trucks and always wanted one. Six years ago my neighbor beat me to this exact truck and I have had to watch it just sit there as he sparingly used it to rehab a house. July last year he gave me first crack at it as he promised.

1971 C10, 350/3 OTT, Orange/White. Original engine/trans were gone replaced with engine/trans from a 72 Chevelle. No idea on the condition or specs other than it ran pretty decent and had Edelbrock intake and carb, but the rest was stock down to original truck ram horn manifolds and single exhaust. It had a new clutch, recovered seat, converted to power brakes, and a rebuilt column. Horrible decision by previous owner to rattle can it black and it needs some tin work. RH side needs rockers, cab corner, and both sides need a small section of kick panel replaced. Not a lot of work in size but it’ll give me a chance to learn to MIG.

A lot of work has been done with a lot to go. I will try and update with pics and links to my questions/other threads. Building a solid daily driver as time and funds permit. Not in a hurry, not paying someone else to build my truck, don’t have unlimited funds, it gets stuff done as time/money permits and my back can handle. Being medically retired with screw and rods in the back some days limit my ability to do certain items and part time work to supplement my build funds. That and is being done on a slopes driveway while my 80 Trans Am in the garage in pieces...already scolded on that one. So here it goes.

[rechinca]

I have been buying up parts to be ready to do a lot of the work. Getting it running right, reliable, safe and the. Focusing on stuff like body work will be later. I am not sold on the rear axle, it has been replaced with a 12 bolt out of a different truck

Tell tale is the lack of the panhard mount built into the cast center section. It has a custom one installed with a mount added to the top of the RH side axle tube. I am not a welder so I will have to get the new perches and that panhard mount. I also have not cracked it open to see what the gears are or if it is open vs Posi. I also have not been able to locate any number on the unit to determine what it was sourced from. Those numbers should have been stamped right where the Panhard bracket is now.

[rechinca]

Somewhere along the line it was probably wrecked as it has the 69-70 grille/bumper in it. And that is pretty hammered already. Not sure what way I will go with it when I replace it. I like all the different grilles they used and at the cost of them, I want to be sure what I want as I only want to make one purchase.

It does need either radiator support patched inser the battery tray or replaced. If I replace it I do have an interesting option. While working a job up in the Concow, CA area after the devastating fire that started there and then destroyed Paradise, I talked to a guy who was cleaning up his dads property. His dad didn’t make it out and was found deceased about 50 yards away from his burned out residence. He never stood a chance.

He had what was once a really nice GMC that was destroyed, but the front grille and bumper were amazingly nice and shiny. I offered to buy parts off it and he said just take what you want. Even if I didn’t use it at least it would still be used somewhere as the rest of the truck was just obliterated. And I mean warped panels from the heat. So I took the grille, headlight trim, fender trim, bumper and headlight buckets. I know it would mean replacing the radiator support and fenders but I don’t know. For right now they will become garage wall art with a story. Due to the fire damage I couldn’t tell what year the truck was, anyone tell me what year the grille itself is from?

[rechinca]

Mission creep did hit a little more than I intended. It started with wanting to install the correct plug wire shields and brackets. I knew I had an exhaust leak and noticed a PO had installed gaskets behind the exhaust manifolds so I decided to remove them to pull the gaskets and facilitate access for plug wire shields and brackets. The manifold bolts were barely snug and the LH had a huge crack down the middle. Sourced a correct LH one and had the local NAPA store machine shop remove the studs and machine the mating surface. Not cheap but I wanted the originals.

New fuel lines, new water pump, needed a radiator, so why not keep going. Pulled the heater box for heater core, both inner fenders and 12 hours of scraping off a hardened waxy/cosmoline type material from all over the front suspension. Probably 50 pounds lighter now. Degreased the motor and repainted it in place as best I could.

[rechinca]

On deck:
Media blasting brackets for alternator, the correct OEM booster bracket and braces, tune up, engine wiring harness (original was hacked and not hooked up to starter properly) and lots of odds and ends.

[Redneck Rydes]

That rear end is a truck rear end,these were still used in the 73-77 trucks with no panhard bolt and leaf springs

[Redneck Rydes]

All the numbers should be on the right side axle tube facing forward just left of the pumpkin

[rechinca]

Redneck good info, I will check again this week for th Numbers, but that area has been ground down a bit. And you are correct, I meant to say different truck not car. The construction on the panhard looks decent in that it is centered as far as I can tell. The bar appears to have been an original type that was cut and sleeved. I’ll check again for the numbers and the. Post up more info.

[notsolo]

Interior looks nice, not a high priority but you may want to try wet sanding exterior with 320 grit wet dry paper, once you break thru the black bump up to 600. Others have done this with great results.

[rechinca]

notsolo thank you very much for that tip. Had not looked into how to tackle that aspect very far. I’d really like to bring back that hugger orange patina as much as possible. Received some info on things to try, but was waiting til it was at least running to go there. Although with the tons of rain we have been having I should have just used the opportunity to wet sand for free. Hopefully tomorrow I can get my media blasting cabinet hooked back up and get some stuff ready for paint. Valve covers will come off for blasting and repaint to match the motor. Debating on the intake. It’s really dirty so thinking about having it painted too.

[notsolo]

Re-reading some posts about paint, some say don't sand it, caution, sand paper doesn't know old paint from new. Youtube, Research, ask at a paint store. Diffinitly start in a place not too noticable, you might find a liquid to remove only the top layer.

[rjs53]

EZ Off cleaner, Works like a charm my truck had been stripped with a sander then primered black. Less than two cans to take it off. Basically washed it off with a hose and wash mit. Used the rest on motor and suspension. Its cheap and it works.

[rechinca]

Most of the brackets and pulleys are now black. Lots of blasting, must have spent the better part of one day but lots of cleaned up parts.

Found some issues I am trying to correct. I already have the brackets and braces for the power booster mount. PO had his “mechanic” do the conversion with a cheap $20 flimsy bracket and “creative” welding to mate the pushrod to the original manual pushrod. Didn’t install the $6 boot and just left the gaping hole to the engine...explains the fumes and smells in the cab. Enjoy the pics and laugh.

[rechinca]

Next dandy was the clutch linkage and bell crank assembly. No inspection cover, no fork book, push rod boot was torn in half. Missing bolt from the bell crank on the bracket I replaced a few weeks ago, but I noticed the push rod end into the bell crank is suspect. The rod looks okay, but the hole looks to be elongated. May be time to just get a new bell crank and new parts to rebuild it.

[rechinca]

One of the few drives I ever did with the truck after I bought it, the alternator died and left me stranded at the red light. That is when I discovered the broken hazard light switch. The signals did not cancel either so I had ordered the correct red knob switch assembly. Wouldn’t you know it, I found that the PO’s “mechanic” had struck again. I don’t know how he pulled the steering wheel, but he messed up the steering shaft threads, so instead of fixing it he just left the nut securing the wheel off. WTH? Needless to say I broke out the thread file bar and a die and repaired it. Lost the after pictures, but this is the before.

[Redneck Rydes]

Don' you just LOVE fixxing other peoples repairs,the nut missing from the shaft made me shudder,I would find the guy that did that,remove 1 of his nu$s and let him drive around like that

[rechinca]

Redneck that is so true. While it is part of the journey we have and relationship we develop with our trucks, I agree with the whole statement you made. When it took about one turn with my puller to have the wheel fall off it reminded me to inspect everything. Old trucks or not, when a shady person does work (and the guy even charged my neighbor who is the nicest guy-no mechanical abilities) and charges someone nearly the going shop rate I get pissed. Needless to say there is a lot of undoing and correcting safety and other issues. It is part of why I am documenting what I find as there are those new to the hobby or those who are learning to work on these old trucks and maybe I can help others see what they need to look for as they go through their own trucks.

[rechinca]

Been a bit so time for updates. Winter rains and new job kept me
Away for a while. Now I spent about 5 - 6 solid hours wrestling with it today. The frost thing I accomplished was setting the engine back on the perches. I had taken the bolts out to Access the engine mount pad bolts so I could run the plugs wires as the factory did. What a fricking nightmare to reinstall when you are working on a heavily sloped driveway! I’ll get pics of the plug wires and routing tomorrow.

Add to that was a couple of hours wrestling with installing the exhaust manifolds. Someone installed a really poorly made Y-pipe that had bad angles and improper bends. That meant a cutting wheel to extricate the exhaust pipes a bit and using some brute strength and pipe in the hitch to make the bends a little mor true.

Now what I do have pics for: I took apart the clutch bell crank or z-bar. I removed the clutch upper rod and lower pushrod first. I was prepared for some old cotter pins. Nope! What I found were wire staples used to install fence slat boards holding the swivel and rods in place! What in the name of horse crap are people thinking?!
[ATTACH]1897455[/ATTACH

The rest of the assorted parts were just worn. Both felt washers that help seal dust and debris out of the tube of the bell crank were toast and the engine block bracket ball was worn with half of the o-ring missing. I cleaned it all up, degreased and hit them with the wire wheel on my bench grinder. The bell-crank and engine bracket will get sprayed clear and the bell crank will get all new seals, nylon washers, etc. The upper clutch rod will need the ends welded to build them up. They have some significant wear and I’m not finding any better replacements.

[rechinca]

Sorry for the delay, pic issue on my end. Z bar (bellcrank) and clutch rod pics attached.

[rechinca]

The remainder of the pics.

[notsolo]

Great work restoring a nightmare hack/ hatchet half a$$ previous owners attempt to ruin your truck. Yikes. Your making progress, looking good.

[rechinca]

Thanks solo! I’m hoping for a month out to begin driving again. It’s getting close, but between a new job and losing a whole week coming up to move the boy back from college for the summer, I am shooting for June 1st as a driver pending any more surprises. As naked as it is now I can’t see too many more problems.

[Ol Blue K20]

I'm subbed to watch. Nice job so far

[rechinca]

Needed to replace the clutch upper pushrod, or so I thought, until I read the posts about having the worn ends built up with weld to eliminate the wear groove. Being sans welder at my house (I know, I know deducting man-card points), I ran it over to the welding shop in town. Turns out $15 got it repaired and ground down to eliminate the worn out spots for hopefully years of future fun. I wasn’t able to pick it up Friday before they closed so Tuesday when I get back from my job out of town this weekend I’ll grab it and some pics to post. So for now, those of you with worn pushrods this looks to be a great solution. I’ll confirm and post more next week.

[rechinca]

Finally a day off and got my clutch rod back. Looks good and he says he repairs these all time.