Rebuilding steering @ Chassis and Water Pump?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Working on a 71 C-10, 402, AT, ground-up originalish, dropped 2.5" front & 4" rear


Steering @ chassis:

Next up is the steering rebuild. The steering box and pump are currently being rebuilt to the tune of $650 counting $170 in shipping (YIKES!). They call it the show detail. Neat, I hope so.

Without knowing much about this, I cleaned up my idler arm, pitman arm and tie rods, and figured to have them painted. Then I started looking for dust seals, of which there's not much of an option out there - if any for the arms. But after 140K mikes & 50 years, and new most all else anyway, it may be better to replace them.

1. Any recommendations for replacements? Moog may have the parts, though they don’t show dust seals with the idler arm (pending). I put the Moog part numbers per Summit below, just for reference.

Looks like Early Classic Enterprises has all the parts as well. They may be a little pricier, but at this point I don't care, just want good parts.

2. Do any replacements come with nice finishes? Be cool if they don't have to be painted.

3. Any reason stock replacement arms & tie rods don’t work with the 2.5” drop? Do they work without modification?

4. Any reason the factory center link won’t work?


Water Pump:

5. Suggestions for a water pump? I’d like a cast iron short water pump, the block and that are factory. Sure I can get a replacement, but what are the advantages of a high volume pump? Tuff Stuff Performance looks decent; they even come orange powder coated........... which probably doesn’t matchhttps://www.summitracing.com/parts/t.../submodel/base

Thanks.

Moog Part #s per Summit:
Idler: 6096T
Pitman: K6131
Inner rods: ES403L
Outer rods: ES415RL
Sleeves: ES2004S

[72LB]

The high volume pump is more for racing, everyday use it will probably run hot due to the water running too fast thru the system.

[Grumpy old man]

I used all new Moog parts Pitman arm / idler arm/ inner and outer tie rods (they come with dust boots) also stock size (67) ball joints also upper and lower control arm shaft kits . Nice high quality parts and they come unfinshed so I cleaned,primed and painted all of it before install . All fit original center link . I also just did the same to my double adjustable track bar also the springs are the same cast grey color so it all looks like it belongs together . Adding it all up using all Moog parts and converting to disc from drum and adding power steering the parts alone are in the $1,800.00 range .

I bought all the Moog steering/ suspension parts from Rockauto . they came in fast and a good price .

[Grumpy old man]

Some of it is pricey but it's good stuff .

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Thanks a bunch. Pulled the trigger on Moog and a standard GMB short pump. I went through Summit because they have a water pump plug I like

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Some of it is pricey but it's good stuff .

I noticed new zerk fittings aren't what they were. I re-used the original. Came up two short, but that's why I bought the 72

So far I'm happy with Moog, though their hardware QC section leves a lot to be desired. First pair of upper control shafts were missing nuts and zerk fittings, and they sent 7/16 castle nuts for 1/2" upper ball joints.

I don't know if there's a right sequence for installing the spindle/ball joints. I think you torque the uppers first, it's listed first in the directions and makes more sense since it's a smaller stud......but, we torqued both to 50 lbs. to begin with, then finished torque. The RH gave us no issues. As for the LH side, we had tighten the (&^) out of the upper ball joint to clear the cotter pin. My son was going at it, I asked if he remembers doing the top first, he thinks so, but it doesn't matter now. The bushings look real good, should be fine.

We did it the Grumpy way, sorta, no compressor required, even with stock height coils and drop spindles. Wholly smokes, my boys weigh 400 lbs. total plus the BBC. We compressed the spring from the end of the control arm, and my son points out the rear frame rail was 3" or so above the jack stand........I supported the other rail with blocks just in case, didn't need them, but that was unexpected.

I'm sure you've used ECE drop spindles. Their ball joint torque specs differ from Moogs, and it's not that close. We chose somewhere in the middle.

[Grumpy old man]

I've seen recommended torque settings all over the place , That's why I use the Dykem , A quick glance and you know if there's an issue . Besides it gives a more professional look to the install .


And it comes in Chevy orange !

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

I've seen recommended torque settings all over the place , That's why I use the Dykem , A quick glance and you know if there's an issue . Besides it gives a more professional look to the install .


And it comes in Chevy orange !

Very cool. I put it on my "need" list.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Ah I see Grumpy, you must have ordered them unfinished. I'm a happy camper how they come finished, hardware pending....... Looks like the pitman and rods are zinc phosphate. The idler seems to be between a paint or black oxide of some sort.

I see they gave me three more zerk fittings to account for, beings the old pitman and idler were closed. I was supposed to be reducing them with a one-piece drive shaft

Except for that exhaust....., trailer on and trailer off. Always something man, what a money pit Oh yeah, forgot about the drive line.....Then it's a rebuilt chassis.

Paint prison should be fun. Good time to take a vacation from the