60 burb fuel tank replacement

[MASTERBrian]

Since buying this truck over 2 years ago I new the day would come I'd have to replace the fuel tank. At first all my searches led to a 70 blazer tank., so I ordered one and have been sitting on it since.

Well the time has come I had to do the swap. I dropped the old tank, not crazy about the fab required tip hey the blazer tank installed and I have a 5" static drop, so it would hang down too low as well. Through a FB group, I came across a guy saying a 37 Chevy poly tank from tanks inc, fits almost perfectly. The issue is the filler neck is forward on the tank. I determined with factory shock mounts that won't work for me. He had relocated his mounts forward of axle. So the search continued......

I finally did some measuring and lots of looking at tanks online and found the 38-39 Chevy tank from tanks, inc is about a perfect fit. I ordered the tank, straps, T bolts and a universal sending unit. The tank is only 7-1/2" tall so it tucks up nicely... it could easily sit higher up than I have it but filler neck would have to be done differently.

The tank rests nicely on the rear crossmember and slightly on the front frame rail. I plan to weld a small piece of metal in to give it a little more 'lip' to catch on. I hope the pics I have so far explain that better.

[MASTERBrian]

Here's a picture where I drilled and bolted the universal straps to the front cross member. I'm debating tack welding the strap and bolt to the member, just in case, but doubt I do. It's a heavy duty bolt and nut with lock washer, might add some red loctite.

For the rear cross member I drilled a pair of holes and tighten the strap with the T bolts. I'll add a picture later if I beef up the front frame area. I just worry the flange of tank could bend over time and allow the tank to move upwards.

The bung hole seen is the factory fuel pickup line on the 38-39. I'll address that later as I'm not sure if I'll use that or use a sender with pickup.

[MASTERBrian]

Still working on the pickup/sender combo. The tank across a standard 5 hole pattern sender, like I said I bought a universal unit, but it's sender only. I'd have to use the bung on lower left of tank for the pickup. I'm not sure I want my fuel line exposed down there so weighing my options. Apparently there isn't a 7-1/2" deep pickup in five bolt pattern that is known. A 40-42 Chevy used one that would work, but it's twist lock. Ughh

Here I took my factory sender and cut off the rheostat mount, moved it higher on the tube and tacked it in place. I then straighten and cut the pickup tube. I'm now working on trying to get the float arm working as needed. It broke as I was trying to straighten, but I think to my advantage as it allowed me to twist the position of the float to a more favorable angle. I've welded the float arm back together. If this works I'll just plug the other pickup tube.

The picture compares a pickup tube similar to the stock 60 tube, its from a 59 I believe so the top of tube is bent the other direction and is for a threaded fuel line connection. I bought it for the rheostat and arm. The stock arm is also pictured. More will follow when finished.

***Ignore the mess on bench I was doing some cleaning, which made a mess, but I wanted some pics.

[MASTERBrian]

Next up is the issue of the filler neck. Similar to what I mentioned about the 37 poly tank, the filler neck on this tank is also forward of stock location, but instead of front side of tank, it's about middle. Of course the nozzle is 2" and the filler neck on the body of suburban is 1-3/8", so that poses an issue as well. Tanks, as im sure others does sell a 6 hole neck that's 1-1/2" I believe, but I didn't see it with a bend and worried it'd run into the frame rail. All these nozzles can be clocked at different angles, but if I clocked the nozzle I ordered down one turn it was into frame and one turn up was into floor.

I determined where it was there was no way I'd easily find a hose that would not rub on the floor and make the bend to the fuel filler neck on truck while reducing down to 1-3/8".

My solution was I bought a 2"Id to 1-1/2" and 1-1/2 to 1-3/8 exhaust reducers. I then cut an angle on the fill neck on tank and the 2" reducer to make an elbow. I then did the same to the 1-1/2 reducer and it aligns almost perfectly with the fill neck on the truck and is now the same diameter. I might have to trim some length from one or both necks top get a little clearance so they don't rub each other under the hose. Speaking of hose oreilly sold me some radiator hose when I asked for fuel hose. I questioned when I purchased and saw it ring up as coolant line, they said fine. Online things say no. I will look around and probably try to return as it was $18 for the foot. 1-3/8" girl line is proving tough tip find. I don't think I need it flexible though. I might run for temp use. Itching to get her back on the road.

Venting the tank is another obstacle. The 38 ran a vented gas cap, sho that's an option, as there isn't a vent on the tank, but there are spots one could weld one in. I don't want to compromise the coating on the tank, so my plan is to weld a 6"ish length of 3/8 metal fuel line into the neck on tank. I should be able to get it to line up perfectly with the one on the trucks neck.

***My welding skills leave a little too be desired, so it's complicated things a little. I've decided it's time to add a bottle to my mig and at dinner point I need to invest in a nicer mig with more control over heat. I have 1 & 2 and low and high, wire feed is variable. At 1 high, I can lay a nice bead on this material, but it burns through easily, so I ended up with some pin hole leaks. At 1 low with wire turned up a little, it pops too much and leaves unsightly welds. I'm keeping fingers crossed I got all the pin holes on the first piece filled. Tonight I hope to finish welding the 2nd adapter on. It's currently tacked in place. I also need to weld the vent tube to the tanks neck. I'm thinking about getting done brazing wire to see if I can fill the pin holes with that if any left. I have easy access to a torch with brazing nozzle. Any tips there are appreciated.

[MASTERBrian]

More pics of filler neck

[MASTERBrian]

A few more of the filler neck. I look to be perfect alignment with the fill neck on body of truck. A little trim of length should put me in perfect placement.

[MASTERBrian]

In case anyone wants to reference this for their own build, here's the part numbers. They should cross at tanks inc or summit. I ordered from summit for free shipping and some parts where less some more. The mufflers obviously are not part of this thread.

[sirJim]

Looks good!

[chevy_mike]

Very creative but I think you are going to have filling issues with that close to 90* welded joint. When filling fuel, fluids do not like to make hard corners like that.

Though it will cost you more, you might find some parts here that could help you out.

https://www.fillernecksupply.com/