Brakes/Front wheel bearing seal questions

[May70]

I have a 70 c20 with 8 lug wheels with drums all around. I wanted to check the brakes so I proceeded to check them.... Came across a few things I have questions on. Some more background... My hubs are rusted together to the drums, so they came off together on both sides. These front drums have two screws in each side to hold the hub against the drum I assume, I am told it was mainly for assembly purposes. Havent got to the back yet to check those brakes.

A) There is no plug, hole or anything that resembles a punch out hole on the drum or on the back plate to get to the adjuster (to back the breaks off). The drivers side was a pain to get loose, beating, then prying to get the drum off the brake shoes. On the passenger side the brakes weren't touching the drum and it came right off. How do you adjust these things/ back off the shoes to get the drum off typically???

B) Wheel bearing seals are giving me grief on both sides. I decided while I was checking the breaks I would check and repack the bearings. Outer and inner bearings were fine, cleaned them out and repacked them. Getting the inner bearing and seal out, I simply took off the outer bearing and put the nut back on, then yanked the drum to get the inner bearing and seal to pop out. I did not check to see if that seal is supposed to sit flush with the flange (Does anyone know ???). After packing the inner bearing, setting it back on the race, when I try to put the seal back in it REFUSES to go in evenly on all the way around. I cleaned of the race and there are no burs or anything. Tried again with a piece of angle iron over the whole seal, gave it a few taps, one side always wanted to pop out, gave it another good tap in the middle and it bent one side of the seal.... I have never had any issue with the seal going in before and I have done these probably 3 or 4 times on later models. Out of frustration I took the hub with the bearing and other seal over to the press. I have a round piece of alum stock the same diameter as the seal and started to press it in. It went with some hesitation and before I knew it I mushroomed the seal. So now I am waiting for the parts store to get in two new seals and don't really have any idea how far in they are supposed to sit or why they were so hard to get in evenly. In case I got the terminology wrong Ill put a diagram up. Red arrow is the bearing, orange is the seal.

Tips/info would be VERY HELPFUL, hoping not to bend two more bearing seals. Thanks

[rjs53]

The seal should fit flush with the hub. Use a piece if 2x4 when installing seals. I tap it to get it started, its sure to pop out if you keep trying to use the hammer to drive it home. But once its started lay a 2x4 on it and tap it in. The lumbers soft enough to drive it in without damage.

[FirstOwner69]

If I recall correctly the seals in my '69 C20 do NOT install flush with the hub. Don't know if C10s are different. I can confirm in a couple weeks unless you are really anxious. It sticks in my mind because I always thought it was odd. Can you measure the depth of the area where the seal seats and compare it to the seal?

[jkeady]

Originally Posted by FirstOwner69

If I recall correctly the seals in my '69 C20 do NOT install flush with the hub. Don't know if C10s are different. I can confirm in a couple weeks unless you are really anxious. It sticks in my mind because I always thought it was odd. Can you measure the depth of the area where the seal seats and compare it to the seal?

Just did seals on my ‘70 C/20. They do not sit flush.

[May70]

Follow up:
I have no idea why the original seals wouldn't go back in without bending, they wouldn't even start to go into the hole. They didnt appear bent or warped or anything.

Went out and bought new inner bearing seals (National part 8974S), went back in no problem with a little pressure and a flat piece of stock over the whole seal face. On the C20, upon further inspection... haha.., they definitely do NOT sit flush. Only about half the depth of the seal goes into the channel over the inner bearing. The other half sticking out is designed to go over the spindle and sit flat against the back (see red line in diagram picture).

On the back drum there was a rubber plug on the drum (see picture below). The only thing on the front brakes that appeared anything like this is an indention that looks like the shape of that plug. It looks pretty solidified into place though. Beat on it a little bit and it didnt give any inclination that it was supposed to pop out (next picture).

[Steeveedee]

My seals also sit proud of the hub, 1/16" - 3/32".

For the OP, you probably ought to replace the adjuster hardware, or at least clean the snot out of it before putting that all back together. If it has self adjusters, the shoes should have been closer to the drum. Look around for a backing plate or drum with the knockout and match them on your truck. Or, you could just match the backing plate hole up to the adjuster wheel. Just make the slot like factory and you'll be able to put those nice plugs in to keep water out.It'll make it easier to work on your brakes from then on.