47-55.1 Steering shaft and tranny lines

[Matt_50]

Get paid in a few days and I want to get a couple things done. If I get steering shaft done I can trim inner fender and get my front sheet metal on and that means radiator and I can finally get tranny lines done.


Here's what I have.

1970 c10 steering column, and a 1984 c10 gear box. I took rag joint off. Do I cutboff that nipple? It's about 22 inches between the two. So, 2 U joints and a shaft in the middle?

I can find joints with the spline count to match and then what on the opposite side? Should it be DD? I saw that I could buy a DD shaft and cut to fit. I also have a 3/4 round shaft... but how easy is it to cut the DD?


Transmission lines.

Th350 trans and a new Chevy 3100 radiator with built in trans cooler.

I have never made these before either. Could I flare some lines like I did for my brakes? Same tool same flare? I've heard people say not to use rubber but what about vibration and it's a low pressure right?

I've also seen some kits, rubber and/or braided steel lines.. Not sure if what's best.

[Matt_50]

Something like this?

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

Do I cutboff that nipple? It's about 22 inches between the two. So, 2 U joints and a shaft in the middle?

I can find joints with the spline count to match and then what on the opposite side? Should it be DD? I saw that I could buy a DD shaft and cut to fit. I also have a 3/4 round shaft... but how easy is it to cut the DD?

That's what I did: U-joint, double D, u-joint. DD is better than the round, and it's a no brainer to cut. Yeah, cut off that nipple; it'll just interfere with the u-joint.

Originally Posted by Matt_50

Transmission lines.

I have never made these before either. Could I flare some lines like I did for my brakes? Same tool same flare? I've heard people say not to use rubber but what about vibration and it's a low pressure right?

I've also seen some kits, rubber and/or braided steel lines.. Not sure if what's best.

There is movement between the trans and the radiator, so some rubber is required to absorb that movement - at either end or at both ends. If you have SOME rubber then don't worry about having MORE rubber (notice even the hard line kit above includes rubber sections). Just make sure you use rubber hose specifically manufactured for transmission lines; don't use fuel line.

[Matt_50]

Ok, steering sounds easy enough. I found things like vibration dampeners and stuff and just wanted to check.

And trans lines... worse case I just need adapter fittings? If the parts in this kit were to long... I could cut and reflare?

[Matt_50]

The transmission ports on radiator are on the bottom... I could use something like these?

[mr48chev]

I'm not a fan of rubber hoses in transmission cooler lines simply because they are a potential leak. If you are up to bending your own and putting the flairs or what ever end they need on them head on go for it. Just take your time and try to duplicate what the factory did or would have done.

[dsraven]

there is also the hydraulic shop hose route. you get the line like you want it, rubber hose and clamps etc, then remove it and take it to the hydraulic shop and they make you a new, pressed together, hydraulic line with the fittings like you need. no gear clamps or anything. bingo bango boomoh.

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by dsraven

there is also the hydraulic shop hose route. you get the line like you want it, rubber hose and clamps etc, then remove it and take it to the hydraulic shop and they make you a new, pressed together, hydraulic line with the fittings like you need. no gear clamps or anything. bingo bango boomoh.

Great idea. I wonder if they could do braided stainless?

For trans to hose or rad to hose:

[Matt_50]

Dsraven I like that idea. I could mismatch the pieces I showed... route it like I like and I could run with it for a while or go ahead and take it to a shop to have it done.

[Matt_50]

I thought I could easily find info on my Saginaw gearbox but I'm finding a lot of options. 13/16 vs 3/4 or 30 or 36 spline.

Anyone know offhand?

[dsraven]

I have had braided stainless made up for my motorcycle brake lines and my fuel injection flushing kit so they should be able to make what you need. they will need to know the heat values and the pressure values, the inside diameter required and the fittings you want on both ends. also the angles of the fittings when assembled because once done those angles are set. that's why i mentioned get it the way you want it with rubber hose, steel line or even heavy wire. get the angles right then take the pattern in.the stainless lines are teflon or nylon or something inside with a stainless braid around the outside.

[dsraven]

https://hosewarehouse.com/8516-eaton...BoCmhoQAvD_BwE

[Matt_50]

Remembered a thread I saved that Miraclepieco started. He has similar setup, stock like radiator, and, and lwp. He mentioned trans lines and how to clear lines with a flex fan he would need to use a spacer. He opted for an auxiliary cooler instead. Also mentioned maybe using n electric fan but I'm not sure I have the clearance.

If I went either route, what size of fan or size of cooler is recommended?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...67#post8315567

[Matt_50]

Will the notch at the end of my column cause any problems? Can I drill into it some for the set screw in the U joint?

[Matt_50]

So this is what I will order tomorrow. I need a 3/4 30 spline x 3/4 DD joint. and I need a 3/4 36 spline x 3/4 DD joint. I think i will go ahead and just by a short DD shaft pretty cheap.

I think I will wait and get a fan installed before I do transmission lines, just in case I have an issue like Miraclepieco.

[b-mac]

I'd say you're on the right track Matt. I'm close, but a little behind you, but I would save the hoses/lines for almost last.

[Matt_50]

Is this too close? Will anything shift when running?

[NeoJuice]

That's pretty close from what I can tell from the picture.

I'm pretty sure you will have some movement in the motor when driving/putting it into gear. I know I have movement, my alternator scrapes up against my inner fender.

[Matt_50]

I can move column a little... how much clearance should I be looking for?

[Matt_50]

Ok, I bought this little kit. Used and bent pieces in it and I had cut the the c10 so I could get radiator in. The c10 lines just needed a couple more inches cut off for me to get a couple pieces of rubber line in there. I'll flare the ends and should be good to go.


On radiator, both transmission lines are on the bottom. Which line goes to which port?