Brake Booster and Master Cylinder ID

[ATLRoach]

This master and booster was in my 68 C10 when I bought it that was hacked together. I know it's not original and I'm have a hard time figuring it out what it came from. Can any of you ID it for me?

Thanks in advance for your help!

[jocko]

I'm guessing, but the booster MAY be a 3/4 or 1 ton unit, not sure though. MC looks correct for C10 in 68. Does it function? Doesn't look hacked together to me (especially if it works). Someone may have just added a larger booster, or a booster period. Does your SPID show a power brake option? If not, then the whole booster was added.

Depending on what your plans are, you can run what you have if it works. Probably not a bad ideal to at least replace the crusty MC with a new stocker, very inexpensive - I'd imagine the brake fluid could use a purge too if the inside of the MC looks like the outside. If booster NOT working, you could replace it with a stock C10 booster. On the other hand, if you're considering a disk conversion, you can pitch the whole thing and start with new MC/Booster/prop valve combo (current setup is a stock correct distrib block that serves as a means of providing the signal to the Brake light on the dash - if there was a pigtail connected to it, that is.. ).

[Keith Seymore]

Any numbers, stamping or codes on either of the pieces?

The master looks like the one on my 74 Chevelle.

K

[geezer#99]

I concur.
Mid seventies booster.
Not a stock master. Looks like a disc/drum.
Distribution block and not a prop valve.
Stock booster might not fit with the bbc.

[Mbeef61]

Booster looks like a c30, looks like they bolted it directly to the firewall and didn’t use a bracket. Master cylinder looks like front disc duralast or something. Seen them at autozone

[ATLRoach]

Originally Posted by Mbeef61

Booster looks like a c30, looks like they bolted it directly to the firewall and didn’t use a bracket. Master cylinder looks like front disc duralast or something. Seen them at autozone

They drilled out the firewall to mount the booster and shorted the rod by welding it hence the hack. The master is leaking like crazy with no stampings that I can find for part number. I purchased a new booster and wilwood master since I posted this. I just need a proportioning valve that fits the current lines until I can get it move to the new garage to pull the motor and cleanup everything.