47-55.1 Q's about installing 80mil sound deadener

[Livemeyer]

Got my Noico 80mil butyl automotive sound deadener, roller, tape, etc. and am prepping the inside roof of the cab. Scraped off all the old cloth-like material (is it fiberglass?) but in places it wasn't, there's some surface rust. I'm working to remove the surface rust, and here's the question: should I just put this stuff straight onto the bare steel, or should I apply a rust-inhibiting paint or primer first, or something else? I figure the sound deadener might affix itself better to the bare steel, but am unsure if it's best to leave the steel in an untreated condition.

[mr48chev]

I'd put on rust inhibiting/stabilizing paint just as a precaution. Anything you can do to stop or slow down rust is going to help the truck last a lot longer.

[Black_Sheep]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I'd put on rust inhibiting/stabilizing paint just as a precaution. Anything you can do to stop or slow down rust is going to help the truck last a lot longer.

I believe the sound deadened will adhere better on a clean, painted surface

[Livemeyer]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I'd put on rust inhibiting/stabilizing paint just as a precaution. Anything you can do to stop or slow down rust is going to help the truck last a lot longer.

Sounds like that is prevailing opinion. As long as the sound deadener can adhere to it, that's the plan.

[mr48chev]

I've never tried rust converters or even the paints that say they will stop rust but getting all the loose stuff off and using a product that says it will convert/stop the rust seems to make a lot of sense.

Let us know how that particular sound deadener works out. We are always up for valid reports on how sound deadener or heat blocking products actually work.

[Driver_WT]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I've never tried rust converters or even the paints that say they will stop rust but getting all the loose stuff off and using a product that says it will convert/stop the rust seems to make a lot of sense.

Let us know how that particular sound deadener works out. We are always up for valid reports on how sound deadener or heat blocking products actually work.

I have used Rust Bullet on previous builds. Used it on a rear axle housing that was 20 years old and rusty - in the last 10 years, no rust has come through the Rust Bullet coating.

I have also used POR15, but that project is only about a year old, so no long term experience to report.

Wade

[_Ogre]

fyi once installed the original rubber trim won't fit
i used black door edge molding to finish off my 58 headliner
sound deadener covered in ultrasuede

[Driver_WT]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

fyi once installed the original rubber trim won't fit
i used black door edge molding to finish off my 58 headliner
sound deadener covered in ultrasuede

Very nice.

[_Ogre]

door edge trim also comes in chrome if your a chrome type of guy

[Livemeyer]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

fyi once installed the original rubber trim won't fit
i used black door edge molding to finish off my 58 headliner
sound deadener covered in ultrasuede

I think what you've done there looks awesome, but your mention of the original rubber trim confuses me. I don't think I'm dealing with any rubber trim on a '51. It's just two cardboard strips with a center frame and rear frame with screws.

[Ironworking]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I've never tried rust converters or even the paints that say they will stop rust but getting all the loose stuff off and using a product that says it will convert/stop the rust seems to make a lot of sense.

Let us know how that particular sound deadener works out. We are always up for valid reports on how sound deadener or heat blocking products actually work.

One of, if not the very best heat blocker is 1/4" thick cork board.