47-55.1 Starting engine after 17 months

[Matt_50]

So I was a bit naive when I first put my drivetrain in my truck. I thought I'd have it running pretty quick.... I was just a little bit off on my timing lol

November of 2017 I drove my 84 c10 into back yard and pulled the drivetrain and put it in my 1950 3100.

My buddy came by the other day and was a bit of a negative Nancy when I said I hope to start it soon. Will I have any issues?

Engine was always covered, hood was on quickly but a tarp was used too until rest of sheet metal was put on. Radiator hoses were plugged. Spark plugs stayed in, air cleaned stayed on, dizzy stayed in place...

But I did take off exhaust. I left manifolds on but he thinks water could have got in... humidity he said.

I live in west Texas, hot and dry but occasionally humid and wet I guess.


This engine was a new crate engine 8 years ago, maybe 9000 miles on it now. Recently got a new fuel pump, water pump, new fuel lines and tank. Could there be surface rust inside?


Do I put oil in cylinders? I'll change all fluids, spark plugs, wires... and I'll bump engine without dizzy plugged in to see if there is oil pressure before start up right?


Or do I just start it Up?

Thanks guys,

Matt

[weim55]

I do one simple thing with the situation like yours: I drain The engine oil into a clean container then pour the oil back into the engine all in one shot as fast as possible to completely flood The valley/camshaft area with oil. Just to make sure the cam lobe‘s have some oil before startup.

Steve weim55 Colorado

[Matt_50]

Drain into a container, then pour quickly back in?

I've read in a few places to add oil into cylinders? Thoughts?

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

I've read in a few places to add oil into cylinders? Thoughts?

I've fired dozens of engine after sitting for years. Never a serious problem other than temporarily sticking rings, which free up after a few hours of run time.

It wouldn't hurt to fog the cylinders with light weight oil like WD40 through the spark plug hole before starting (just a light mist, don't get carried away). Don't prime the carb right away - you don't want it to start immediately. Instead crank the motor (with distributor in) until it builds oil pressure before starting. This will also serve to draw fuel up to the engine. Then you can prime the carb if you want - preferably through the float vents, not the barrels.

You could use a oil pressure priming tool, but that means removing your distributor and losing your timing preset.

If it was running before, you won't have a problem now.

[Matt_50]

Oh good, I was a bit worried. So the exhaust off for only 17 months shouldn't be a big deal?


Side questions, I can almost completely reuse the old exhaust.

It's rained a few times is that ok?

Next, a new exhaust could fit in more snug but the old one doesn't hang lower than axle or running boards. So safe to put on?

[mr48chev]

It shouldn't be a big deal at all but I would pull the plugs and squirt some light oil in the cylinders and crank it over with the plugs out. Marvel Mystery oil has been the go to for this for just about as long as there have been gas engines. That will get a bit of lube on the rings in case they dried out.

Draining the oil and dumping it back in isn't going to accomplish a thing and that may be a locality trick but in 60 years of being a car freak, working on cars professionally and as a hot rodder that is the first time I heard that one. Sounds like a spit and whittle club BS some rookie thing.

It wouldn't hurt to drain the oil and change oil and filter though. Engines like clean oil.

I doubt that there is enough humidity in West Texas unless you are in the city of WEST Texas to write home about. There might be rodents who thought that open manifold was a nifty hiding place though.

Fire it up, do a quick video and let us see how it goes.

[Matt_50]

Ok, change oil. Nice new oil going through everything.

A couple dry days before start up, take out plugs, squirt oil in, crank it without plugs, that'll prime up the fuel, it should show some oil pressure on gauge during crank right?, and the cranking will blow out the oil in the cylinders.

Then put plugs in, hook up exhaust and fire it up?

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

So the exhaust off for only 17 months shouldn't be a big deal? It's rained a few times is that ok?
Next, a new exhaust could fit in more snug but the old one doesn't hang lower than axle or running boards. So safe to put on?

Yeah, you really should have taped over the exhaust ports. Fire it up, see what flies out ;-)

I like my exhaust lower than most; it keeps the floorboards from getting too hot. I had to have my exhaust shop redo my pipes cuz they tucked them too tight to the floor the first time. If yours isn't hanging below the truck it sounds like it will be fine.

[Matt_50]

Cool, I think I over think some of this sometimes. I just need to modify it a little around transmission crossmember.

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

Cool, I think I over think some of this sometimes. I just need to modify it a little around transmission crossmember.

PS: I just got what you meant about the "dizzy not being plugged in." You meant disconnect the power wire, right - not take the whole distributor out? Sure, that will work to keep it from firing until it builds oil pressure from cranking.

[farmall]

After not running for 16 years I poured a can of Seafoam down the carb and let it sit for days. Pulled the plugs and cranked it and the Seafoam came shooting out the plug holes.

[Ironworking]

I have to ditto mr48chev statement. Marvel Mystery Oil is the champion in these situations. I have used it since i was a pup and my dad used it before me. One of the best products ever! I have started engines that sat for up to 4 years in the east texas humidity. Started like they had ran last week.

[paulspickupparts]

You may want check and or replace your fuel . Had a local farmer who took a very nice 48 Chevy 3/4 216 out of an extended stay of over 5 years . Was able to get it running. Dumped new fuel on top of old . Took it to a local muffler shop. When it came back it had a valve lifter tick noise. He suspected the younger employees had rodded the truck. Ended up being a bent pushrod. This is where I became involved . I gave him a few good used pushrods. About a week later he came back and needed a few more. At that point in time I asked him if he had drained the carb and fuel tank and pump. He kind of gave me that sheepish look with a no answer. He said "thats quite a job" So a couple of weeks went by . Phone rang and he needed some rocker arms . I gave him a whole shaft full .

Never heard from him for about a month and saw him on the street.Asked how that old truck was running. Well pretty good he said after we rebuilt the head" What had happened he kept pumping the valve train full of varnish which kept sticking the valves , bending push rods, breaking rocker arms etc.

Funny part was the guys at the machine shop said if he did not put new fuel in it they were be repeating what they had just done.

I do not think you fuel is as old as his but something to consider. Our crappy fuel only lasts about 30-60 days without stabil or additive. Good luck.

[Matt_50]

New tank, new lines, new pump, and I'll change filter... there shouldn't be enough in the carb to be a problem right?

[paulspickupparts]

Why risk it . I would not do a rebuild just a good cleaning to see what you have. Great time to get some idea of how your fuel aged and if bad distributing . These carbs are so easy to get on and off and clean I would do it . You came this far.

[mr48chev]

Yep, DRAINING ALL OF THE OLD GAS is an absolute must on it. I've got one sitting out in the yard with a tank full of varnish right now that I have to deal with.

If one doesn't know while old varnish smelling gas will sometimes run it creates seriously hard and heavy carbon deposits on the exhaust valves all too quickly and that locks up the engine.

[MiraclePieCo]

Gentlemen please note the OP did say he had a whole new fuel system - pump, lines, tank - so I hope we can assume there's no old gas in it.

Originally Posted by Matt_50

Recently got a new fuel pump, water pump, new fuel lines and tank.

Matt

[Black93GT]

My 327 sat on the garage floor for 6 years before putting it in my project. I drained the old oil, pulled valve covers and added fresh oil by pouring over all the rockers. Cranked for a bit with the distributor unplugged just to make sure the oil was primed before lighting the fires. I didn’t have any issues.

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by Black93GT

My 327 sat on the garage floor for 6 years before putting it in my project. I drained the old oil, pulled valve covers and added fresh oil by pouring over all the rockers. Cranked for a bit with the distributor unplugged just to make sure the oil was primed before lighting the fires. I didn’t have any issues.

One thing I like to do when engines sit idle for prolonged periods is rotate the crank occasionally. This alternates the valve springs that are compressed so no one spring stays fully compressed for years.

[dsraven]

if it was me I would pull the plugs and squirt in some light oil. crank it over by hand a couple of turns to make sure a mouse hasn't filled a cylinder with nest debris. that will also lube the piston skirts a bit. if you have an inspection camera you could check each hole through the plug hole I guess. then I would unplug the distributor power, install the plugs, change the oil and filter, and crank it with the starter until it has had enough time to pressure up the system and fill the oil filter. you say the fuel system is new so that deletes the fuel dump etc. put some fresh gas in it, fill the float bowl through the vent tube in the carb, then plug in the distributor and try to start it. prolly be fine.
that's just me though. there are those who would pull it apart and reseal everything
I agreed to do a clutch in my buddies cruiser bike. it sat for a winter in his mom's attached garage. when I went to start it it cranked and cranked and cranked and resisted. old gas is what I wrote it off as. finally it let out a big backfire and started. the garage floor was absolutely covered in popcorn kernels. a mouse had filled the exhaust. after that I thought about what would happen if a mouse had gotten further up the exhaust system and into a cylinder. I have taken apart farm truck engines before and found mouse nests inside the cylinders. musta been some skinny little mice, lol.

[_Ogre]

ogre would just fire it up
17 months is nothing to the gas or oil

[Matt_50]

Wiring harness is roughly laid out and most of what I ordered will be here tomorrow. So today I played with the exhaust. Neighbors probably wouldnt want me to start it without it lol. I had thought I needed to modify it to fit but that was before pinion angle was set and it turned out I needed to play with the transmission crossmember instead.

Now the old exhaust from the c10 fits pretty good as is. Hangs a little low but not lower than running boards so I'll leave it be for now. Only thing is thatbitbis too long so I cut it after the converter and I'll need to cut a selection out of the middle.

Couple questions...

1. See the attached pictures and tell me if you agree that a donut exhaust gasket goes on both sides. I don't remember. First picture shows what both sides look like.

2. My fuel tank is in the rear. I plan on my exhaust going over the rear axle and out the back. How much clearance do I need between the tank and pipe?

[Black_Sheep]

Pull the coil wire and crank the engine until you have oil pressure. Reconnect the coil wire and see if it lights...

[Matt_50]

Ok, mystery oil in cylinders. Just a little bit. Then leave spark plugs out and crank engine. This'll lube up cylinders and blow out excess oil . And itll charge up oil system. Then put spark plugs back in and fire it up.

Everything sound good?

[Matt_50]

Went to oriellys. I got oil, plugs, mystery oil, exhaust gaskets, power steering fluid... and a bunch of other stuff. In a few days I will have a few more things in the mail.


Exhaust went well, I shortened the donor c10's exhaust and cut off a large section.