47-55.1 Speedway Dirt track A arms for bagged S10s

[gigamanx]

I've been all over the Internet and this forum and still can't seem to get a "right" answer on the A arms needed for an S10 bagged chassis. From what I gather, the 8" Speedway dirt track version is correct. I buy two right hand ones since the left hand one of their kit is 0.5" longer.

Supposedly, poly bushings are a better choice to replace the ones in the Speedway kit as those are steel bushings. The site also says the A arms fit stock ball joints.

Questions:

1. Could someone confirm the 8" RH is correct for a 1988 S10 chassis?
2. Do I purchase separate poly bushings for road use?
3. Should I use stock ball joints, or is there an "upgraded" version that you would recommend?
4. Am I better off just spending the extra $$ on RideTech StrongArms Tubular Control Arms Part #11393699
5. Do drop spindles come with ball joints (I'm planning on getting those too!)

Thanks for the help!

[mr48chev]

On the left/right thing. I am pretty well positive that you will throw the caster all out of wack if you put a right Control arm on the left side.

The 8 inch may actually be short as every dirt track car that I have been around has a lot of positive camber in the left wheel and a lot of negative camber in the right wheel to make left hand corners with the tires making more contact with the track. The arms are way cheaper than street arms as they are pretty well disposable as far as dirt track thinking goes. Some of them probably have a couple of spares hanging in the trailer in case one gets bent.

Ball joints might depend on who made the control arm It shouldn't be an issue with an outfit like Ride Tech but may be a big issue with some less respected brands.

If they don't come with a ball joint get Moog or an equal unit.

I've never seen any spindle come with ball joints. Never have been interested in dropped spindles but I have seen no mention of ball joints in any add. Personally I'd rather try the original spindles and see how it works before spending money on dropped spindles. It's an extra couple of hours of work if you end up having to swap them to get the look you want but if you don't need them you are $$$ ahead.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

On the left/right thing. I am pretty well positive that you will throw the caster all out of wack if you put a right Control arm on the left side.

The 8 inch may actually be short as every dirt track car that I have been around has a lot of positive camber in the left wheel and a lot of negative camber in the right wheel to make left hand corners with the tires making more contact with the track. The arms are way cheaper than street arms as they are pretty well disposable as far as dirt track thinking goes. Some of them probably have a couple of spares hanging in the trailer in case one gets bent.

Ball joints might depend on who made the control arm It shouldn't be an issue with an outfit like Ride Tech but may be a big issue with some less respected brands.

If they don't come with a ball joint get Moog or an equal unit.

I've never seen any spindle come with ball joints. Never have been interested in dropped spindles but I have seen no mention of ball joints in any add. Personally I'd rather try the original spindles and see how it works before spending money on dropped spindles. It's an extra couple of hours of work if you end up having to swap them to get the look you want but if you don't need them you are $$$ ahead.

Thanks for the tips! I think you're right on the drop spindles. I'll wait until I see what the air bags do when they are installed first.

As far as the flipping RH side. That's actually off the Speedway site and I noticed their A arms are pretty much flat, so I could see how they could be flipped one side to the other.

I'll check into the Moog ball joints!

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

On the left/right thing. I am pretty well positive that you will throw the caster all out of wack if you put a right Control arm on the left side.

If they don't come with a ball joint get Moog or an equal unit.

I've never seen any spindle come with ball joints.

these speedway arms are mirror image left to right, so you can swap them left to right by flipping them over. they dont have any balljoint angle, the balljoint mounting surfaces are perpendicular to the mount.

if you must use these, at least use the ones with the steel cross shaft instead of aluminum. I havent seen any kits to change out the steel bushing for poly, thats a new one to me, but I cant imagine the poly will last very long given its thickness. the steel certainly doesnt last very long. read the reviews.

the way you have your frame set up, the truck will lay out easily without tube arms especially with drop spindles. most people use tubular arms on S10s because they need a lot of drop and lift for big wheels, the upper tube arms clear the exhaust better at big drop and give about an extra inch of lift without the structure that hits the spring hats.

the ridetech arms are great, I would recommend the full upper/lower set if you go that route. I have had several sets and they are always in good enough shape to resell after removing. check your local craigslist, thats where I have gotten mine.

I second the Moog balljoint. there are tall balljoints the name escapes me but it helps with toe change at extreme drop, again, you wont have this problem much because of how your fame is set up.

drop spindles do not come with balljoints.

[b-mac]

I came here to say some of what Joedoe has already said. Although, I did this swap. Probably totally unnecessary.
As Joedoe said, yes, you just buy two of the shorter arms and flip onr.
Also, with a two inch drop, the taller balljoint is supposed to correct the handling issues cause by the drop.
I'll get to see how long those steel bushings last...
Pics:

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by joedoh

these speedway arms are mirror image left to right, so you can swap them left to right by flipping them over. they dont have any balljoint angle, the balljoint mounting surfaces are perpendicular to the mount.

if you must use these, at least use the ones with the steel cross shaft instead of aluminum. I havent seen any kits to change out the steel bushing for poly, thats a new one to me, but I cant imagine the poly will last very long given its thickness. the steel certainly doesnt last very long. read the reviews.

the way you have your frame set up, the truck will lay out easily without tube arms especially with drop spindles. most people use tubular arms on S10s because they need a lot of drop and lift for big wheels, the upper tube arms clear the exhaust better at big drop and give about an extra inch of lift without the structure that hits the spring hats.

the ridetech arms are great, I would recommend the full upper/lower set if you go that route. I have had several sets and they are always in good enough shape to resell after removing. check your local craigslist, thats where I have gotten mine.

I second the Moog balljoint. there are tall balljoints the name escapes me but it helps with toe change at extreme drop, again, you wont have this problem much because of how your fame is set up.

drop spindles do not come with balljoints.

Thanks for the input everyone! I pulled the trigger on the RideTech upper arms for now and going to see how much trouble I cause when I try "dehump" the lower arms. I'm going to replace all the bushings while they're off as someone in a different thread suggested. May aswell get it all cleaned up and fresh while they are off.