No spark, new junk

[cfan10]

OK, back again with more misadventures...truck was getting no power to the distributor and there was that weird melting plastic smell. So I replaced it with an cheap clear assault racing one. New battery tested on other vehicles and they seem to run fine.
Took the starter down tested it on a battery seems to work fine battery cables are in good shape.

When I turn the key to the accessory position the fuel pump runs and fills the filter with gas, but when I turn to the start position the fuel pump gets no power nor does anything else.
Getting no power at distributor tried a spark tester.
Hot coming off of the fuel pump goes into choke on fuse block under dash, checked all fuses none are blown.

'84 c10 350/350 hei distributor Mr. Gasket electric inline fuel pump.

As always many thanks for your advice, it is greatly appreciated.

[Gregski]

I know nothing about the newer Gen IIIs so don't laugh at me, but could it be the Neutral Safety switch, can you bypass that monkey

[hatzie]

Have you checked the ignition switch and the Neutral Safety switch?

[rpmerf]

Does it crank?
Is not power to the distributor the only issue?

Make sure your battery connections and grounds are clean and tight.

Do your headlights work in each key position? Do they dim when you turn it to start? If they stay lit at the same (or similar) level, there is likely no power to the start position, and I would look at the ignition switch. If they go out, it seems like a large short.

Either work your way backwards or forwards. Get a test light and the schematics, and work your way from one end to the other.

I see NSS was suggested, but I believe NSS will interrupt the starter, but will still allow power to the ignition.

[cfan10]

Tried two brand new ignition switches, everything works fine lights, cluster still nothing when trying to start...fuel pump primes but when I turn to start absolutely nothing. I will try the neutral safety switch. Also have a new fuel pump. Talk about a pain in the @$$!

[cfan10]

Tried to start in neutral same issue.

[Palf70Step]

Do you know what the extra hot lead is off your choke fuse. I am always leery of funky wiring like that.

[cfan10]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Do you know what the extra hot lead is off your choke fuse. I am always leery of funky wiring like that.

Yes, it's the external fuel pump.

[cfan10]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Have you checked the ignition switch and the Neutral Safety switch?

It's weird because the neutral safety switch only have one connector plug with one green and one blue wire. Also the steering column has junkyard markings so there's no telling what year it's out of...the plug was almost unplugged so I put it back still nothing but I think it's just for reverse lights...just going to trace wires now.

[hatzie]

If the pump is working in RUN then it's not likely the problem.

Do you happen to know what year that fuse panel, and likely the cab harness, came from? The fuse panel layout doesn't seem to match the 1984 wiring diagrams.

The Neutral safety switch simply interrupts the CRANK wire from the ignition switch to the starter. Despite my previous statement it's unlikely to be the power problem. I somehow misunderstood your post and thought it wasn't cranking. If she isn't cranking then look at this switch.

Choke is powered by the Circuit 300 ORANGE wire off the ignition switch. Circuit 300 only has power in RUN not in CRANK. Bodge wires into fuse slots, like your fuel pump hookup, cause fires.Remove the bodge wire from the CHOKE fuse and repair the damage caused to the PAK CON terminals.

Circuit 3 (PINK) from the ignition switch should stay powered in both RUN and CRANK. You're missing the IGN fuse... This fuse powers the points marked IGN on the 1984 fuse panel along with the HEI coil.
Properly plug the fuel pump into an open Circuit 3 IGN slot on the fuse panel... NOT THE IGN FUSE SLOT. These spots in the fuse panel are either female PAK CON terminals, just like the fuse slots, that you can plug MALE 1/4 disconnect into or Male 1/4 disconnect terminals that you can plug a Female 1/4 disconnect onto.

Incidentally. The Brake and some of the other warning lamps should light in CRANK. The ignition switch grounds Instrument Cluster Circuits 33 & 35 in that position only.

[Pontiac1976]

This may be the problem. Maybe you check the dist. lead make sure it plugged in all the way or contacts is clean making good contact. Since you did change cap.
If this missed by mistake in hast truck will not turn over(fire). It happens to the best of us

[cfan10]

Originally Posted by hatzie

If the pump is working in RUN then it's not likely the problem.

Do you happen to know what year that fuse panel, and likely the cab harness, came from? The fuse panel layout doesn't seem to match the 1984 wiring diagrams.

The Neutral safety switch simply interrupts the CRANK wire from the ignition switch to the starter. Despite my previous statement it's unlikely to be the power problem. I somehow misunderstood your post and thought it wasn't cranking. If she isn't cranking then look at this switch.

Choke is powered by the Circuit 300 ORANGE wire off the ignition switch. Circuit 300 only has power in RUN not in CRANK. Bodge wires into fuse slots, like your fuel pump hookup, cause fires.Remove the bodge wire from the CHOKE fuse and repair the damage caused to the PAK CON terminals.

Circuit 3 (PINK) from the ignition switch should stay powered in both RUN and CRANK. You're missing the IGN fuse... This fuse powers the points marked IGN on the 1984 fuse panel along with the HEI coil.
Properly plug the fuel pump into an open Circuit 3 IGN slot on the fuse panel... NOT THE IGN FUSE SLOT. These spots in the fuse panel are either female PAK CON terminals, just like the fuse slots, that you can plug MALE 1/4 disconnect into or Male 1/4 disconnect terminals that you can plug a Female 1/4 disconnect onto.

Incidentally. The Brake and some of the other warning lamps should light in CRANK. The ignition switch grounds Instrument Cluster Circuits 33 & 35 in that position only.

Found what I'm pretty sure is the culprit, the starter solenoid wire came out of a crimp, thing is it was hidden behind about two rolls of electrical tape and rubber hose and cut beer cans all zip tied together. I took it apart and it has about three different cut and crimp areas, I'm going to replace it but can't seem to find the proper name of it, I tried searching GM starter solenoid wiring with no real luck. The only thing I find is a kit with external starter solenoid I don't need that. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks for your previous help!

[cfan10]

Originally Posted by Pontiac1976

This may be the problem. Maybe you check the dist. lead make sure it plugged in all the way or contacts is clean making good contact. Since you did change cap.
If this missed by mistake in hast truck will not turn over(fire). It happens to the best of us

It's actually the wiring going to the starter solenoid. Really the whole harness is junky and that's being kind. Thanks for the advice!

[hatzie]

Your IGN fuse appears to be missing. That'll keep the HEI and anything else that supposed to be HOT in RUN & START/CRANK from getting any juice.

If you need the, usually PURPLE, SXL 14ga wire that runs from the bulkhead plug to the starter solenoid S stud... just make one.

You'll need;
A few feet of PURPLE 14ga SXL wire.
#8 14-16ga ring terminal for the starter S stud.
14-16ga Packard 56 terminal. Unfortunately I've forgotten which gender. Match the gender of the terminal you're extracting.
Two 2" sections of Adhesive lined heat-shrink for strain relief at the terminals.

If the Circuit 2 RED wire(s) at the starter BAT terminal are chewed up just replace them as well. You'll need one or two 14ga fusible links on 3/8" ring terminals at the starter BAT stud and several feet of 12ga RED SXL wire with the correct terminals at the opposite end.