Closed knuckle-ball clean up advice needed

[Short 3/4]

I'm doing a total tear down/re build on a closed D44f (non HD) and of course it has the usual pitting and grooves on the ball. Was wondering best way to clean it up without going beyond the point of no return and making things worse. I'd like to only do this once, and not ruin it in the process.
I know they all leak and are obsolete junk, but I've been driving these since the seventies and happen to like them, so please don't try to talk me out of this.
As this is the first time I've torn one down this far, any advice would be very much appreciated
Thanks
Tom

[sweetk30]

maybe super clean / degrease / wire wheel / then j.b. weld the low spots and let cure and then sand down smooth the whole ball .

i know a guy who did this on a semi float axle were the seal grooved the surface . was still going strong after a year or two when i heard the story from him .

[Brad54]

This is going to be vague as hell, so I apologize in advance...
I once heard about some marine-use metal filler, like JB Weld, only designed to be used in marine applications. It was machinable after it cured.
Might try looking in that direction.

['63GENIII]

I would think that the JB weld or equivalent epoxy would work if the grooves aren't too deep. Ive used the Marine 3M stuff. I think it may end up harder than JB weld. The more permanent one requires keeping it damp / wet during curing.

I think if push came to shove though and the grooves were deep with the possibility of becoming cracks, Id look into having it welded and file shaped and sanded smooth. They're cast IIRC. Ive had good luck having cast welded by a local shop that knows what they're doing. Putting heat into an area that critical would be the only thing giving me pause. Properly done though is the key.

I too think the closed knucks are cool. Even cooler with a set of rotors on 'em!

[mongocanfly]

I also think the jbweld will be fine..at work we have tantalum putty that's like jbweld on steroids...high $$$ stuff

[Short 3/4]

Thanks for the input. While it would be nice to hear from someone who has actually done that, sounds like it would work, and if it didn't no real damage would be done.
Other issue I'm going to have to deal with is re shimming the king pin bearings. I've got a 'death wobble' on hard breaking, and don't think its brakes or wheel bearings, so going to R&R top and bottom bearings while in there. Factory manual shows two different ways to adjust shims, depending on if seals are in or not. Anybody have opinions or experience in this?
Thanks for any help,
Tom

[61K10]

somebody on here did the j-b weld on their knuckles. Sanded them down smooth, and worked fine. I put new knuckle bearings in my axle but just put the org shims back in. You might have a bad bearing?

[Short 3/4]

Originally Posted by 61K10

somebody on here did the j-b weld on their knuckles. Sanded them down smooth, and worked fine. I put new knuckle bearings in my axle but just put the org shims back in. You might have a bad bearing?

Yes, going to R&R the bearings, but if I go to that expense and trouble I want to make sure the preload on the bearings is perfect (or as close as I can get it)

[maxwoof]

About ten years ago, I packed all the bearings in my closed knuckle assembly with quality wheel bearing grease. The way you would in an open knuckle assembly, or a 2WD front wheel. I don't put any oil in the knuckle. I have been running this way since, with no issues. Granted, that's only been about 15k miles, but about half are highway. I do check often for heat and looseness of the hubs, and haven't had either. Something to consider. When first I took the knuckle apart, ten years ago, the outer wheel bearings were really dry, and the upper knuckle bearings too. Now, at least they have some grease in them...