Clean and lube 3ott?

[LagunaGlide]

I have looked up how to adjust, and have installed new bushings for the lower end of the column shift as mine was rigged up and always getting stuck. I am still awaiting one part.

At any rate the engine side where it comes out of the column is full of old dirty grease. I plan to clean it all up, but am unsure what folks have successfully used to lubricate this area.

[67C10Step]

Mine was jammed up when I purchased it but I got it freed up, adjusted on the column end, and lubricated with a good spray lithium grease. Hasn't jammed since but my truck is not road worthy yet so it hasn't been shifted a lot either.

[LagunaGlide]

Originally Posted by 67C10Step

Mine was jammed up when I purchased it but I got it freed up, adjusted on the column end, and lubricated with a good spray lithium grease. Hasn't jammed since but my truck is not road worthy yet so it hasn't been shifted a lot either.

Thanks. I believe the service manual says to use engine oil, but I'll pass on that. I grabbed some silicone spray lube I will try.

[68panelman]

I believe that there is a few detailed threads available if you try the search method, I remember reading a few awhile back

[LagunaGlide]

Originally Posted by 68panelman

I believe that there is a few detailed threads available if you try the search method, I remember reading a few awhile back

I've seen a few regarding what is needed for repair/rebuild and adjustment, not not lube. Then again I'm not great at the search feature

[68panelman]

I've never done anything with the column tube, only the two ears at bottom of the column and shift rods connections.
I brush on either white lithium or copperkote

[VWNate1]

Being aware that you have to CLEAN EVRYTHING first puts you way ahead of the crowd .

Once everything is hospital clean (this includes removing the steering wheel and upp collar etc.) you lube it with long fiber grease, white Lithium is the best IMO but military surplus Lubriplate branded rifle grease excels too .

Then comes the 'fun' part ~ you must hold / lock the shifter in the neutral position then go underneath the truck and first replace the shift rod bushings (I make new ones) so the rods are not floppy where they fit into the shift arms on each end then you adjust the rods so they go into the tranny's shift arms dead centered and don't flop nor sag yet are free to turn as they move back and forth .

Once you do all this and learn "Square Shifting" it'll be fine forever more .

Speed shifting is what wore this out long before you bought it so be aware and drive accordingly .

[LagunaGlide]

Originally Posted by VWNate1

Being aware that you have to CLEAN EVRYTHING first puts you way ahead of the crowd .

Once everything is hospital clean (this includes removing the steering wheel and upp collar etc.) you lube it with long fiber grease, white Lithium is the best IMO but military surplus Lubriplate branded rifle grease excels too .

Then comes the 'fun' part ~ you must hold / lock the shifter in the neutral position then go underneath the truck and first replace the shift rod bushings (I make new ones) so the rods are not floppy where they fit into the shift arms on each end then you adjust the rods so they go into the tranny's shift arms dead centered and don't flop nor sag yet are free to turn as they move back and forth .

Once you do all this and learn "Square Shifting" it'll be fine forever more .

Speed shifting is what wore this out long before you bought it so be aware and drive accordingly .

Thanks for the reply. It was jerry rigged at the lower when I bought it, and took some real slow methodical shifting not get stuck going 1-2. I managed to find the rubber piece and metal bushings to replace everything engine side but when I tore it all apart the clamp cups were missing completely. Managed to find a set of those, and just now put it all back together. Already shift 1000 times better.

[rechinca]

I couldn’t figure out why mine was sticking 1-2 until I crawled underneath and started removing the clutch bell crank for a rebuild. That was when I discovered the lower bushings were shot and instead of the G shaped spring clips holding the levers/rods together it was held in place with staples from an air stapler like you out a wooden fence together. I give them an A for ingenuity but it explained why my neighbor complained it shifted poorly from 1 - 2...

I scrubbed the years of gummy lube and deposits from the ears on the column and used white lithium brushed on them, I didn’t have any issues anywhere else in the column that needed addressing.

[VWNate1]

I find that very thin metal flat washers are helpful in shimming the shift rods so they don't flop......

[68panelman]

Agreed^^^, mine has stainless washers there for exact same reason

[GRX]

Have dealt with my share of 3-ott tree in both GM and Fords. Times three on clean, lube, and washers to prevent slop.

Changing over to floor shift is best thing I did to my '69 stepper. 3-ott is nostalgic and all but I forgot that fast not having to move those heavy shift rods around with arm extended while in traffic.