U Joint replacement advice?

[msg]

I had years back disconnected the driveshaft during the teardown anbd stored it. Now I wanted to clean it up and paint it but I think replacing some parts might be needed but Ive never done it. I have a vise mounted on my workbench and if need be can go and rent a press to do it. Ive never bought these parts and didnt know what I should consider when buying and installing. Anyone have any tips on how to and which brand parts to get?

[msg]

this part looks pretty new, maybe its fine..just how to remove it though?

[jayoldschool]

That center bearing looks brand new. Don't change it unless there is slop. To do the U joints:
- pliers
- a ball joint removal kit or a big c clamp or a big vise and sockets
- a hammer
- big flat blade screwdriver
- grease

You can do this, it's easy.

Here's me doing exactly what you want to do:





Here's how bad my bearing was:

[msg]

Thanks Jay for the reply, from what I can see at RockAuto all 3 u joints are the same part. I guess go with MOOG?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...321883&jsn=501

[Captainfab]

That light duty driveshaft and carrier bearing is okay as long as your engine doesn't have much power and you are not excessively lowered.

[msg]

Thanks Cap, the truck is stock height with a 350 and a 700r4 transmission. I mean it was til I tore it all down, but its all going back the same, just cleaner and restored.

[msg]

Ok, so I rented the press and followed this videos how to.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gOeBE-ylQw


BTW, that cap that has to be pulled off with pliers wasnt as easy for me as the video showed. I found that I had to remove the press clamp and pull the u joint down a bit to get the pressure off so the cap would wiggle out with channel locks.

[msg]

Now though Im at a point where I should just leave well enough alone and clean it up the best I can and spray paint it all (minus the carrier bearing) or try and get the carrier bearing off. I assume its this bolt here that has to be removed to get that CB off? Its on pretty snug I bet.

[geezer#99]

Before you go too far did you remove the driveshaft from your truck to work on it?
Was it hooked up to the trans and rearend already?

[jayoldschool]

Even if you do take the bolt out, the bearing will not come off without a press. If there is no play, leave it.

[msg]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Before you go too far did you remove the driveshaft from your truck to work on it?
Was it hooked up to the trans and rearend already?

Yeah Geezer, many years back I disassembled the truck to restore it and it was hooked up and worked fine..I figured since Ive been sprucing I may as well clean it up.

Originally Posted by jayoldschool

Even if you do take the bolt out, the bearing will not come off without a press. If there is no play, leave it.

Thanks Jay, thats what Ill be doing. Leaving well enough alone, just painting it and buying new u joints to put in. Which by the way, I have a few other questions.

Are the best ones to get greaseable? I was looking at buying the Moog ujoints here
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=501&jsn=501

I probably goofed by just popping them all out and not paying attention to the sizes I need, are there markings I should look for to know? Or do I need to go buy a caliper to measure the ends?

[rustbucket66]

Before you took anything apart, you should have marked with a file or die grinder disc, how each shaft lined up, so it can be put back together in the same position. Especially the midship yoke that has to come off to replace the hanger bearing. This is to maintain the balancing. The midship yoke especially needs to be in phase and in the same position because the heavyist side of the yoke will be opposite the balancing weight. If it is 180 degrees out, the heavyist side and the balance weight will be on the same side and cause vibration. Same if it isn't in phase. It wouldn't hurt to get it rebalanced after you are done. The tubes aren't what needs to be balanced, it's the yokes on the end of the shaft. They are cast and not perfect as far as being balanced.

[msg]

Thanks rustbucket, the entire truck was disassembled years back. There was nothing left on the frame, cab removed, all that with the goal of fixing up everything that was there are put it all back together..with a few replacement exceptions. Would the markings still have helped? Or in that case once the engine and trans and rear axle are installed again, the only thing to do is take it to a shop and tell them I need it rebalanced?

[rustbucket66]

Not a bad idea to take it to a driveshaft shop and have it rebalanced. If you have a vibration, and you haven't, you might wonder if it is the wheels/ and or tires, or something else in trying to figure out where it is coming from. The angles should be checked and corrected also if the stock ride height has been changed. Have it balanced before you install it. Any time you replace u-joints, always mark the yoke and tubes somehow, and install them in the same position. No balancing necessary if you do that.

[msg]

I think I lucked out. Besides having a habit of leaping before looking I have a habit of taking too many pics. But this time the details may help me. From the weld mark pattern on the shaft that staggers at an angle and the paint wear on the mid ship yoke that I thankfully didnt clean up and re paint. The other end is easy since one end has 2 plates and the other has 1. So Ive marked them up with yellow tape until I can figure out which u joints to buy.

[rustbucket66]

Awesome.. Saves you some money. I also like to remove the grease nipple before taking it apart because it can make a burr on the edge of the bore when you take it apart. Run your finger around the bore before putting the new one in. It may need a bit of filing.