Headman Ball collector keeps coming loose

[demian5]

I have a set of hedmans on my truck. The ball sockets keeps coming loose and leaking.
I have tried grade 8 bolts with:
- Copper Nuts
- Double nuts
- Stover Nuts

Any ideas? I can tighten and they come lose in about 1000 miles (not loose, but leak)...

[special-K]

Hmmm... I wonder how common that is and why. I have zero experience with those. But I never heard of problems like this.

[kxmotox247]

I had the same problem with my hedman's. I think they stayed tight the longest when I double nut'd them when they were warm. Sold that truck so I'm unsure if the new owner ever battled them. My guess is yes.

[jimijam00]

Stage 8. You could also use some JB weld on the threads if you don't have a need to keep taking the system apart. Of course, you can always cut the nuts off and just use new bolts and nuts next time you install.

[Ironangel]

I used flanged nuts & bolts on mine and never a problem. One thing I've seen others do is use a longer bolt with a spring between the nut and the collector flange.

[Killer Bee]

over the many years of various different headers I've owned, the biggest issue I've found are thin collector flanges warping allowing fastener torque to let off, not from nuts backing off..

easy to identify and a couple of ways to remedy or replace with heavier flanges..

or upgrade to v band and kiss exhaust leaks good bye!

good luck!

[special-K]

I have virtually no problems from the old style three bolt bell flanges. How are these new ball style any better? Most of my trucks have been 4wds and many have been weight hauling work trucks that go anywhere I need to go, meaning plenty of frame twisting. Just the cheap gaskets last at least five years before blowing out. Takes ten minutes to change gaskets/new bolts. I have copper crush gaskets I bought with a set of headers to replace my current headers but my current headers are still solid after 15 years. Now my exhaust I put on at the same time needs replaced and I'm stuck with having to decide whether to run the new pipes to the old headers or go to the new ones. The saying "If it ain't broke..." comes to mind. Sometimes the new and improved is only new.

[Mike C]

The ball completely eliminates the gasket between the collector and the exhaust. I am a big fan. They also allow some angular adjustment between the exhaust pipe and the collector.

[special-K]

I was wondering the advantage over bell flange style for staying sealed. In 45 years I've never had a bell flange seal give me problems in 1,000 miles. The exhaust is made to fit the headers. So any good exhaust guy shouldn't need angular adjustment. None of my exhaust has ever needed that. My cheap gaskets last years longer then that. Haven't tried the copper yet. I have some I've had since '04 and only had one gasket fail a couple years ago and used up a stray cheap gasket for that. This staying sealed problem with ball flanges seems to be a common problem. That's why I ask what the advantage is

[toolboxchev]

If your flange is not bending or warping I would suggest trying something from this company:

https://www.nord-lock.com/en-us/

Technology is your friend!

[kwmech]

I fixed mine with replacing them with the manifolds. Headers can really bring on the suck on a street truck that doesn't really need them for performance. Leaks, burned wires, starter heat soak. Truck actually ran better with the cast iron on into a single 3'' pipe

[GASoline71]

I've had Headman ball and socket style headers bolted in my truck going on 8 years now. Never had to retighten the collector fasteners. I used the fasteners that came with the headers as well. The are the cat's behind...

Gary

[RustyBucket]

No problems with 2 sets of Headman ball and socket headers. Have them on the Blazer... they do hang down too far... but stay tight. Had a set on the '70 Nova. I'd hang short mufflers and play on the street a little. Used the bolts that came with them with good success. Sorry you're having trouble with yours. In the past I have had a lifetime of loose and leaking bolt together header flanges & hopefully won't have any more.

[Mike C]

I run a set on the side exhaust of my 360 powered CJ-5. They work great. I have a couple of other sets as well for my big block Corvette and a set I run on my engine test stand. They get put on and off the test stand motor all the time and don't have to worry about gaskets.

I ran a set of Heddmans on my Jimmy and the flanges were shrunk to almost nothing due to old age and the ball and socket let me get a few more years out of them when gaskets would no longer seal. Either Fel-Pro comoposites or the dead soft aluminum.

Mostly I am a fan of not running headers anymore unless you make serious power. Replacing my Heddmans with 2 1/2" rams horns resulted in no change in felt power output. But made it much quieter. And 20 years later almost the flanges haven't failed.

The L36 (390 hp 427) going into my short step will run big block Corvette manifolds. The hot rod 427 for my 'vette will get headers. Will see how the power compares. Motors are similar with the 'vette motor having a little more intake duration but a little less compression.

[special-K]

Just to be clear, I'm not dissing ball collector headers, just asking because I have no experience with them and the topic indicates some have had more issues with them than I have had with old style headers. I guess I've been lucky because there are many who hate headers, period, from bad experiences. I've said it before, I've had more problems from manifolds than headers. I absolutely hate dealing with leaking donut gaskets and the studs. Couldn't be in a more inconvenient location, either. But most of all, my interest in these trucks is the same as it's been for over 45 years and I still like them the way we did them back then, perhaps, when we knew no better. Believe me, if any of that wasn't working out too well it would be time to change. Hasn't happened yet. Burnt wires from headers is due to negligent installation. I'm a live and learn from my mistakes kind of guy. Not a live and run away from my mistakes kind. That's the difference between turning a bad thing into a good thing and having a bad thing being truly a bad thing and a total waste. So I can understand why those who hate headers got to feeling the way they do, and the same for those with bad bell flange seal experiences. Mostly, the last time I had to buy headers either the ball collectors weren't out yet or I had never heard of them to even consider them. The fact is, the bell-flange collectors that have existed longer than some of us have been alive are not the bad thing so many make them out to be... from my experience. < My teacher

[dell72]

I use all metal lock nuts on my Hedman headers. I've never had a problem with the collectors coming loose with this method.

[demian5]

Originally Posted by jimijam00

Stage 8. You could also use some JB weld on the threads if you don't have a need to keep taking the system apart. Of course, you can always cut the nuts off and just use new bolts and nuts next time you install.

Those stage 8 collector bolts look killer but are a grip of $$.

[demian5]

Originally Posted by toolboxchev

If your flange is not bending or warping I would suggest trying something from this company:

https://www.nord-lock.com/en-us/

Technology is your friend!

The flange on the header is fine, the one on the pipes is kinda bent, that makes me think the bolts are good but the flange on the exhaust pipe is the culprit.

[demian5]

Originally Posted by Ironangel

I used flanged nuts & bolts on mine and never a problem. One thing I've seen others do is use a longer bolt with a spring between the nut and the collector flange.

I had flanged bolts with the serrated surfaces on it first, replaced those pretty quick.

I thought about the springs (like factory exhausts with ball sockets use). The hard part would to be able to get a sturdy enough spring easily that would hold up to the heat.

[weq92f]

.
I've been running the ball/socket Hedmans using the supplied hardware for a few thousand miles without issue.

Hth,

-klb

[toolboxchev]

If its not a show rig, tack weld em. And be done with it.