AC system choice

[69 customcamper]

I am getting ready to put together a very nice 67 C10 with an LS swap. I got the engine new with a sanden Compressor. What are peoples thoughts on best system ? I am trying to go for a stock look other than the motor so I am thinking I want to use the factory ac controls. The truck is a factory AC cab . Body shop is prepping cab. Here are questions :

1. Who makes the cleanest AC firewall panel for a truck that had factory air

2. What is everyone's choice for AC system brand ? Nostalgic Air , Old Aire, or Vintage air ? (Keep price out of this. Worried about performance)

3. Cable or electronic ? The electronic looks kind of cheap to me in photos but maybe I am being too quick to judge

Thanks !

[57larry]

I like Vintage Air. I have installed 4 units in my other cars and have no problems

[Astro-Balls]

If you have the factory AC and a Sanden compressor, that all you need, use the factory components .

[69 customcamper]

Originally Posted by Astro-Balls

If you have the factory AC and a Sanden compressor, that all you need, use the factory components .

I do not have anything but the factory control panel new NOS. I generally do factory on my trucks but want the cleaner look due to the LS.

[weq92f]

.
My vote is VA, however I've no experience with the other complete replacement brands.

As for the controller options...The VA interface to the factory controller doesn't use the fan switch and so you end up with some awkward controls but they do work.

VA's 4 knob controller is what I'm running and all 4 knobs are functional, they light up nice and they look and feel solid.

VA includes what they call "cable converters" which convert your factory controller over to control the VA unit ( see above ).

I like the look of the factory controller better than the VA...but don't dig the funky controls.

Hth,

-klb

[Getter-Done]

I am going with Old Air.
I have the kit and if you want to see any particular part,
I could get some pics.
I am along way from the installation.
Here is 3 links that I saved about this subject.

1:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...thing+firewall

2:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...hlight=Old+Air

3:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...r+installation







.

[DJStucker]

Vintage Air all the way.
Greatly reduces the amount of components and it works way better. Using a Sanden with the old components is not very efficient, not to mention 134a doesn’t work well in an R-12 system and R12 is hard to come by.
Been running the VA system for years flawlessly. Only downside is you lose some glove component space, but you gain a ton of engine bay back.

[Andy4639]

Classic auto air group day and night better than any other. I have 2 of their systems in my 71 C 10 and the 56 Bel Air. Less cost than VA. They will work with you on putting a kit together for your needs.


https://www.classicautoair.com/original-air-group/

[Sheepdip]

Vintage Air w/Electronics is way less cluttered, Just helped my son do his in his 72 about 3 months ago.

[tim_mc]

I installed Old Air with the under dash vents. Just had it charged...works great.

[tim_mc]

Glove box is usable. Thanks to my brother for painting the blower motor and firewall blockoff plates to match. Went with the electronic control...didn't want to mess with cables. Pardon the grainy dash pic...it was at night. The controller fit perfectly into the factory controls hole.

[68 P.O.S.]

I've had my eye on ths one.

https://www.restomodair.com/shopprod...te-a-c-system/

[morepwr]

I have Vintage Air in my 67 and it works perfectly. Clean install and it has been in there for 4 years with zero issues. I am sure a lot of the other brands listed are good too and I would just shop around to see what's priced best.

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by DJStucker

... R12 is hard to come by....

That is just not true. R12 has been orphaned by the media hype. R12 is relatively easy to obtain. A quick look on "that auction site" show it easily available for about $32/can so $120ish for all the refrigerant you need. Even less in large quantity jugs.

[DJStucker]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

That is just not true. R12 has been orphaned by the media hype. R12 is relatively easy to obtain. A quick look on "that auction site" show it easily available for about $32/can so $120ish for all the refrigerant you need. Even less in large quantity jugs.

I should clarify; I think in terms of where I am at. Out here in California, it’s hard to get and most folks won’t ship it here due to the steep fines associated. Probably much easier to get in other states.

I find that the VA system I have that uses 134a works great though, and you can get 134a just about anywhere. A matter of preference I’m sure, but I was happy to upgrade to the simplicity of the VA system and no worries about where I’m going to get refrigerant.

[jennings0418]

I used the VA kit with my LS swap. I kept the compressor in the factory location. Some say you will need to botch the crossmember to do so, but I made my own motor mounts so I wouldn't have to do so.
I love the clean look under the hood, the lack of stuff hanging down under the dash, and that the factory control switches are used. I've been running it for about 3 months now and I love it.
My only complaint is that they do not send an electric fan to blow across the condenser. I added that and wired it to come on when the compressor kicks on.
I also wired it into the engine harness to let the computer know when the compressor comes on.
Let me know if you want pictures and I can send you some.

[DJStucker]

FYI VA also makes a Trinary pressure switch which can be used to trigger an electric fan based on pressure. This way the electric fans will run at pressure (usually longer than the compressor is on) rather than just when the compressor is on. This results in better efficiency. I installed this when I put my system together and it works great.

[ManNamedJed]

I did Classic Auto air as its kit was supposed to be a bit more powerful. I am happy with it.

i posted my install notes in this thread:
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=771526

[dz1087]

I think I remember in some other threads reading about having to block off the passenger floor air vent to install these systems. Does anyone know which kits require this? Is this something you would need to remove the cowl in order to accomplish? I've got mine off to mitigate rust on the inner cowl area and would hate to get the cowl back on just to have to remove it again to block off that vent.

[DJStucker]

I have a VA system and I’m almost positive I had to block it off, but as I recall it was like a piece of vacuum formed plastic the fit in the duct above the kick panel.
I know that the system doesn’t pull in outside air, it’s strictly recirc only.

[jennings0418]

Originally Posted by dz1087

I think I remember in some other threads reading about having to block off the passenger floor air vent to install these systems. Does anyone know which kits require this? Is this something you would need to remove the cowl in order to accomplish? I've got mine off to mitigate rust on the inner cowl area and would hate to get the cowl back on just to have to remove it again to block off that vent.

The VA system comes with a piece of plastic to cover the hole after you remove the factory vacuum controlled flap. You use silicone to seal it and a couple screws to hold it in place.

[dz1087]

Okay, so it sounds like I can go ahead with getting the cowl back on before I buy the A/C system.

[Ken Davis]

Old Air in my 72 replaced factory air works great now blows out harder at vents. Easg install.

[Killer Bee]

before you invest in an R12 system, better check the latest EPA regs, it's on it's way out..

it's enemy is not media hype, it's irresponsible use and atmospheric venting that forces regulation..

I'm no tree hugger but I'm also fully aware of where most consumer sold refrigerants end up..

[Rufas]

Originally Posted by Killer Bee

before you invest in an R12 system, better check the latest EPA regs, it's on it's way out..

it's enemy is not media hype, it's irresponsible use and atmospheric venting that forces regulation..

I'm no tree hugger but I'm also fully aware of where most consumer sold refrigerants end up..

R12 has been 'on it's way out' since 1993. R12 is still available for sale for about $13 a can on eBay.

I'm getting my factory A/C back together. Since I already have three cans of R12 I'll most stay with R12. R134 is not exactly environmentally friendly either.

R134 or 1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane also known as norflurane, R-134a, 134a, Forane 134a, Genetron 134a, Florasol 134a, Suva 134a, or HFC-134a is haloalkane refrigerant a with thermodynamic properties similar to R-12 (dichlorodifluoromethane) but with insignificant ozone depletion potential and medium global warming potential. It is generally considered to be non flammable but shares the same flammability issues with the PAG Oil or Ester Oil lubricant used for the compressor during a catastrophic decompression. Auto Ignition Temp is 1328°F. It is also considered a testicular carcinogen. It is rumored that EPA plans a phase out to R1234-YF by encouraging the manufacturers to increase the price. As of January 2018 the EPA is requiring a 609 certification to purchase large cylinders of product. The availability of small cans for the general public remains the same at this time however the cans must have self sealing valves.

It looks like R1234-YF just might be the replacement for R134.

R1234-YF or 2,3,3,3-Tetrafluoropropene, is a hydrofluoroolefin (HFO) with the formula CH2=CFCF3. This colorless gas has been approved as a replacement for R-134a as a refrigerant in MVAC applications. Most all automotive manufacturers are switching to R1234YF as of the 2017/2018 Model year. R1234-YF has been classified as H220: Extremely Flammable in the MSDS from National Refrigerants. However ASHARE ( American Society of Heating and Air-Conditioning Engineers ) states it is mildly flammable with an A2 designation. When combined with compressor oil under pressure it becomes extremely flammable during a catastrophic decompression.

In the atmosphere, HFO-1234yf degrades to trifluoroacetic acid, which is a mildly phytotoxic strong organic acid with no known biodegradation mechanism in water. In case of fire it releases highly corrosive and toxic hydrogen fluoride and the highly toxic gas carbonyl fluoride.

Seems like no refrigerant is ideal.