Pinion nut won't move.

[C30Seenemall]

Hey all...

Trying to replace the front pinion seal on my rear differential.
My p/u is 1975 C30 454 automatic. I'm using a 3/4 drive 1& 1/2 " socket, reducing impact adapter and 1/2" impact wrench. Nut ain't budgin'.
Been using WD40 on it, but I'll bet there's something more effective.
There's no rust but it's been on there for 44 years, so...
I have no heat to apply it, (not sure I want an open flame there anyway).
I tried my 1/2" breaker bar but have not applied major leverage to it yet.
Not sure I have enough room for that.

Maybe I should capitulate, and take it to my professional mechanic.
Thanks in advance for your input and assistance!
"Not-Muscle-Bound" Wayne

[tinydb84]

What is your impact rated to? That might be the issue.

[Keith Seymore]

Yah - it's got about 10,000 ft-lbs of torque on it, so you are going to want to have plenty of leverage.

K

[mongocanfly]

I used a 3/4" drive ratchet on mine with a 4ft cheater to get mine to break loose

[C30Seenemall]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

What is your impact rated to? That might be the issue.

I believe it's about 250 ft lbs of torque.
I will need a lot more - obviously.
Any idea how much more?
I see 1/2 impacts from 950 to 1190 ft lbs., and 3/4 impacts from 1500 to 1700 ft lbs. Should I go whole hog and do the 3/4 impact with 1700 ft lbs?

Thanks!
Wayne

[mongocanfly]

good high quality 1/2 drive impact sockets and breaker bar should be ok....but if you have 3/4 drive then that's what id use

[PGSigns]

Get a socket the fits your impact so you get rid of the adapters. That will help. Then you have to have something solid to hold the yoke. If it is shaking you are getting very little of the impacts power applied. I have a 36" pipe wrench I use. The blow air from your compressor till it cuts on. Wait for it to cut off then hit the nut. That will give you the most from what you have. Then there is always a bit of heat to get it a little more in the mood to move.
Jimmy

[C30Seenemall]

I wanted to say Thanks!, to all those kind souls who replied with good advice.
I'm going to invest in a 1700 ft lb, 3/4 impact air gun and A 15' 3/8" hose.
It is rated at 1500 ft lbs torque but has a bolt break rating of 1700 ft lbs.

I know a breaker bar and 4 ft cheater would work, I don't have the room to use it.
Besides, who knows when I might need the power for another stubborn nut.
Thanks again!
Wayne

[kwmech]

Pull the nose of the diff out of the housing and clamp the yoke in a vice.

You'll probably have to use a puller to get the yoke off as the factory puts sealer on the splines to prevent leakage. Also have to be careful going back together with the crush sleeve if you are using it over. OR pull the nose out and take it somewhere where they know what they are doing

[Keith Seymore]

It's pretty common to put Loctite on there, too, if it has ever been apart before.

Reminds me of a story: we used to race with a guy named Bobby Joysey. His dad, Bill, was a salty knowledgeable older guy that built Bobby's engines and helped maintain the car.

We were walking through the pit area one time and you could just see Bill's feet sticking out from under the car. He must have been trying to break that pinion nut loose, because you could hear him hollering "...damn red Loctite! DAMN RED LOCTITE!!"

K

[C30Seenemall]

Originally Posted by kwmech

Pull the nose of the diff out of the housing and clamp the yoke in a vice.

You'll probably have to use a puller to get the yoke off as the factory puts sealer on the splines to prevent leakage. Also have to be careful going back together with the crush sleeve if you are using it over. OR pull the nose out and take it somewhere where they know what they are doing

By "crush sleeve", you are referring to what the manual calls out as a "Collapsible Spacer", right?
As long as I don't allow the bearing to come out, when I replace the seal and reinstall the yoke, I won't disturb the crush sleeve, correct?

[PGSigns]

The crush sleeve is used to set the bearing preload. As you tighten the nut the crush sleeve will shorten up and keep the space between the bearings set. The process for putting one together with a crush sleeve is to pull the nut down (this where the vice comes in handy) till you feel a bit of resistance on the bearings. Then take an inch pound dial torque wrench and test the rolling resistance of the pinion. Then back in the vice and ad a little more torque to the nut and test again till you get it where it needs to be. I do not use an impact to tighten the nut. It is very easy to to go to far and have way more preload than you need leading to early bearing departure from this world. Here is a quick video on setting the preload.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lD8QNQATrNs
Jimmy

[SunSoaked]

Bigger breaker bar...

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by SunSoaked

Bigger breaker bar...

Fixed it:

Originally Posted by Archimedes

"Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it and I shall break your pinion nut loose"

[Keith Seymore]

Also by the same guy:

Originally Posted by Archimedes

"Believe not everything which has been read on the Internet."