68 Second Chance

[landarts]

I am always searching for quick filler projects that I can put a little time into and get it back on the road for someone to enjoy. I do these because it is my source for funding my current projects and enjoy the satisfaction of saving another truck to live on.

I found this truck on Facebook Marketplace and instantly was interested and reached out to the owner. They shot me back a message saying that someone else was coming out to view the truck. I messaged back to them, "Great, if they do not buy the truck or it turns into a no show, please give me a chance to buy the truck. I would like to get it back on the road for someone to enjoy". A day or two went by and I never heard back from the couple so I sent them another message asking if the truck sold. They came back with "He was a no show". I immediately messaged back "Can I call you if this is a good time?" and the wife said "Sure anytime here is my number". I called and explained that I was interested and discussed some of the history and their purpose for selling the truck.

The backstory is that they inherited the truck from their father that had bought it brand new in 68. He drove it and at some point the 6 cylinder motor gave up to the ghost. He had a 283 motor so he had it rebuilt and installed the 283 V8 which answers the question for the finger guard shroud. After the father passed he brought the truck to his property and his intentions were to restore it. Well life got in the way and that never happened. They are selling their property and moving to a place where they really don’t have room.

I scheduled a time to see the truck, reserved a trailer from Uhaul and was on the road to go get it. Here are the pictures that the owner sent me, the first two were from the ad on Facebook.

[landarts]

Here are a few pictures of me dragging it home and doing a little cleanup be for it goes into the garage to be worked on. Major scrubbing, power washed and a tried a little CLR treatment on the hood. Last picture shows it resting in the garage with its younger cousin the K10 from the Field - build thread here.

[Orange71shorty]

Looks like an awesome find. congrats!
Looking forward to the build

[cornerstone]

Congratulations! Looks great as is.

[landarts]

So after getting the truck home and cleaned out and scrubbed down, these are the items that I will be addressing to get it back on the road.

1. There was about half a tank of gas that was probably in there over 10 years. Looked dark orange to almost brown in color and did not smell so good.
2. The motor will need to be addressed to see what it will take to get it running.
3. Check on the brakes and any other mechanical.
4. Reinstall the seat that was in the bed when I bought it.
5. Both windows will not roll down, so will need to pop off door panels and get that working again.
6. Probably will need new tires or some take offs

So last weekend I removed the gas tank and started the cleaning process. Removed the fuel sending unit which I cleaned with lacquer thinner. Blew out and ran a few small bottle brush type cleaners through the tubes. Removed the metal mesh sock that was toast. Will install a Wix filter under the truck and one at the carb until I know all is good. The gas tank is being soaked with about a gallon of Acetone and a chain. Been working it back and forth everyday after work and it is doing a good job of getting the black look tar out of the bottom and sides.

I moved onto the motor later in the day on Saturday by checking fluids, removing spark plugs and squirting a little marvel Mystery oil into the pistons. Install new battery cables and new battery, disconnected the fuel line to the carburetor and inserted into a large water bottle to catch any bad gas that the fuel pump might pushout. Put a little gas down the carburetor and try to fire it over. I tried a few times to start it but no luck.

Sunday I decided I would do a tune up and see if I could get this thing to fire up. Here are the items that I replaced:

• replaced the AC delco R44 plugs with AC Delco R45 plugs
• New Plug wires, old ones were very brittle and crusty
• Distributor cap and rotor
• Added a brand new Pertronics Ignitor II and Flamethrower Coil

After doing all of the above I tried to fire it up again and had no luck again. I did pull a plug and hold to ground to make sure I was getting fire down to the plugs and it had a nice white spark when turned over. Probably have the distributor off a tooth or two so will be working on that by pulling plug and find TDC. I needed to recharge the battery after cranking for a bit on the motor.

So I decided to pull the carburetor off since it would need to be rebuilt or replaced. When I went to pull the carburetor off which is a 2 barrel Rochester 2 Jet with an oil bath air cleaner, the front two mounting studs broke of with hardly any pressure. So I have worked on getting those out the last two days after work and finally succeded. After that I chased all the mounting threads on intake with a 5/16 18NC tap to make sure the threads were good. Ordered a new rebuilt 2 barrel carburetor from Amazon to get it going.

This afternoon I will remount the intake with new Fel-Pro gaskets and let the RTV cure over night. Friday I will put the distributor back in after finding TDC, check that all wires are going to the right plugs. Mount the new carburetor and hookup a tempory tank and see if I can get it to fire up.

Sometimes when you are trying to rescue these trucks they seem to kick and fight all the way.

[68Gold/white]

Don't send that old carb off for a core, if possible. Rebuilt carbs are a crap shoot, regardless of who's label is on them....

I used to sell auto parts...hated to sell someone a reman'd carb. I'd keep the core around for a while to make sure their "NEW" carb worked. If I heard no complaints and the carb was something I could possibly use, I'd buy the core...

[landarts]

Sent the new carb back it will not fit the 2 barrel manifold. Going to rebuild the old one here after I get it started up. Reinstalled the intake manifold. made a implement to attach to harmonic balancer so I could spin the motor around to get TDC. Put it all back together and mounted the old carb back on the manifold and pour a little gas down the throat and tried to fire it up. Nothing.

Looks like I will need to go through everything again and verify I actually had TDC and that the spark plug wires are correct. As it was turning over got one little small backfire but no attempt to start.

Pict 1 - Motor torn down to reinstall intake manifold
Pict 2 - A quick made up tool to attach to the harmonic balancer to turn motor to achieve TDC
Pict 3 - Also took off front fender to do a little rust repair on front fender cup, lower back mount rust hole. After that I will attempt to buff out fender then take to NAPA to do a digital color match. Repaint the areas and buff back into old paint....photos to follow

[68Gold/white]

The lifter valley looks clean, that is a good sign. You need to plug those 2 holes on the carb mounting surface. THey were old technology to bring heat to the carb. They just are a maintenance nuisance, you don't see those holes on much of anything past around 70 or so..

Timing cover may need to come off....

Make sure engine is grounded to body and chassis...

[landarts]

This truck was a radio delete plate truck. I found the original delete plate in the glove box. That's a nice score for sure. Also noticed since it was a radio delete truck the cowl had no antenna hole on passenger side. However somewhere along they way they put a radio in and drilled a hole on the drivers side to accommodate the antenna and just mounted some plastic radio shack speakers......I think it said "Realistic" on the speaker front and the player was a cassette player. What a classic find.

[landarts]

Was able to get a little bit of the preparation for drivers side fender repair. this will be my first attempt at trying to match the patina paint for the two small repair areas. It looks like on the fender at one time they might of had some bumps and bruises from the presence of gray primer on the upper portion of the fender. Since this is a truck I will be selling soon I want to make it not only presentable but rust free. The fender had the usual front fender cup rusted out due to poor design and usually leaking battery acid. The rear bottom is another area that rust out do to poor design that traps leaves, mud, etc and allows rust to develop. The rockers are fine on this truck looks like someone must have replaced them at some point, noticed it from getting under truck and could see where the spot weld line was.

So in doing this I wanted to only fix the two rust spots and make it look as though it had never had an issue. So the process that I am attempting is by removing the fender, buffing with a buffer and compound to get to the real color under the oxidation. Then take the fender to my local NAPA automotive paint store where I buy my supplies. Have it match with a digital gun, then mix up a quart of single stage paint. They then take the single stage and pour out 4oz. to make an 2K aerosol can that has a badder inside with hardner. You then take an special activator button on the bottom to activate the bladder so the harder mixes with the paint. You now have ready to spray matched paint in a spray can that is good for up to 24 hours. If this does not work then I still have the matched paint in a quart to respray with.

Pict 1 - Buffer and compound ready to see the real color
Pict 2 - Shows the upper area buffed compared to low oxidized area
Pict 3 - Qt. of single stage digital matched paint and a 2K spray can ready to go
Pict 4 - Rust are bottom of fender apron
Pict 5 - Rust area drivers side fender cup

[landarts]

A few of the repair in progress. Started with cutting out the rear section and making a template. After cutting out had to hammer a bit to get the right shape and fit. For the fender cup I knew that the repop parts do not fit at all, actually up to a 1/2" off in length. So I tried to use as least of it as I could, making a scale with measurements that can be transferred. next I will need to make a vertical cut or two to get the proper length and fender lines to match up.

[landarts]

Here are a few more pictures of the repair in progress. Was able to get the metal welded in on bottom apron section. Now it will need some hammer and dolly work next. For the fender cup I had read that the repop part was about 1/2 inch to short. So after measuring out carefully and using a grid to transfer my cut, it wa exactly 1/2 inch off after splitting it vertically. After tacking the two pieces on I tacked a temporary spacer at the bottom of the cup so it can hold shape while I finish tacking. Now it will need a template made to fill in the 1/2 inch difference on the front side and on the back.

[cornerstone]

Great way to work around a problem!

Tell me about the paint you bought, if you don't mind. I see it says color match, is it a single stage paint? What is in the aerosol can?

[landarts]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

Great way to work around a problem!

Tell me about the paint you bought, if you don't mind. I see it says color match, is it a single stage paint? What is in the aerosol can?

The paint is single stage paint from Napa auto parts paint store. I took my fender off of the truck and buffed it to get the oxidation off. Then took it to the store where they used a digital gun to match the paint. Then mixed a quart of paint, after that they pour 4 oz. out of the quart can and pressurize it into a aerosol can that has a hardener bladder. When you get ready to spray with it you use a red button tool on the bottom of the can to puncture the bladder and mix the hardener with the paint. After you do that the paint is good for 24 hours. After I paint the two repairs I will let it cure up a few days then I will buff the old with new.

Utech paint is a line that Napa sells, it is a step above the Martin Senoir brand. The Utech paint is one of the paints that can use the digital gun to match paint with. Since the truck paint is old and faded a bit this is the only way to get a color match without doing a complete paint job.

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by landarts

The paint is single stage paint from Napa auto parts paint store. I took my fender off of the truck and buffed it to get the oxidation off. Then took it to the store where they used a digital gun to match the paint. Then mixed a quart of paint, after that they pour 4 oz. out of the quart can and pressurize it into a aerosol can that has a hardener bladder. When you get ready to spray with it you use a red button tool on the bottom of the can to puncture the bladder and mix the hardener with the paint. After you do that the paint is good for 24 hours. After I paint the two repairs I will let it cure up a few days then I will buff the old with new.

Utech paint is a line that Napa sells, it is a step above the Martin Senoir brand. The Utech paint is one of the paints that can use the digital gun to match paint with. Since the truck paint is old and faded a bit this is the only way to get a color match without doing a complete paint job.

Thanks for the detailed answer, I didn't know that existed! Hardener built into an aerosol can... so cool! I can see how that will be very helpful. Truth is, with the way my wife drives and 3 teenage new drivers in the house, I could really use this! I have to look into where a NAPA store with that capability is near me.

[landarts]

In the works for the weekend, finish the repair on the fender and get it ready for paint. While items are drying like primer, filler, etc. I will be pulling out the distributor, coil and plug wires on motor. Then verifying TDC again and install a new spare HEI distributor and wire set that I have. Redo the gap on the plugs for the HEI and see if I can get this to fire up finally.

[landarts]

Installed the HEI, gapped plugs and got everything hooked up to try and start and had consistent backfiring. Moved all the plugs wires 180 degrees and it fired right up. So now I know it runs so I can fix the 180 out on TDC and reset the plug wires. Got the tank in the cab installed and finished blowing out lines and hooking up double filters. Tomorrow will get it running on it own gas tank and try to finish metal work on fender. Possibly install the seat and take it for its first ride in over twenty years as long as brakes check out. Exciting to get a truck back on the road that has been sitting for about twenty years.

[landarts]

Ran out of time to take it for its first ride this weekend. Was able to finish the metal work on the fender repair. Adding the 1/2" strip of metal to the repop part because it was to short in length was time consuming and ending being over 50% of the welding needed to replace the fender cup.

[landarts]

Did the truck running on its own gas tank now. Had to take apart the thermostat housing was leaking coolant all over the manifold. Cleaned it up well, surface sanded the housing to make sure it was clean and flat. Used a brand new gasket and Right Stuff Gasket Sealer on all areas. Hand tighten down and let it sit for an hour, then torque to 35 lbs. Next day I have a running motor that does not leak.

Moved on to finally starting to put down some filler after work on the two areas of rust repair on the fender. Pictures below are the second coat after knocking down with 40 grit and a little hammer work on a few high spots. Hope to get two more coats this afternoon and a guide coat on.

After I finish with the fender repair and touchup I will move onto passenger side cab corner and then possibly fill eight mirror holes on each door and touch up. I order a set of the 5" rounds in black and will repaint them with the single stage 501 and add a little wear to them so they look right.

[cornerstone]

Very nice work!

[landarts]

Got another coat of Rage filler on the two spots on the fender. Sanded them down 80 grit, then 120 grit and put on three coats of SEM black Epoxy primer. Had an issue at first with the nozzle clogging, soak it in acetone and blew out with compressed air. The shook the can for another minute or so and then applied the three coats.

Will block that out this evening and see if there is anything else that might have been missed. If not I will move onto the cab corner and door repairs. Once I activate the 2K can harder I only have up to 24 hours to use all the paint. Hopefully all will go as planned and if not I still have 28oz of matched paint in the quart can.

Pict1 - Fender after shooting SEM epoxy primer
Pict2 - Rear fender apron repair
Pict3 - Front fender cup repair (still need to cleanup the inner side)
Pict4 - Old Blue waiting for its fender

[landarts]

Here are some of the interior shots of the truck. I have three orders showing up on Friday all for the interior. Dash pad, heater control kit, gauge bezel from one place, seat cover from another and a few consumables from Amazon.

So the interior will have new Gauge bezel, seat cover, dash pad, heater controls fixed (P.O. rigged up a flip switch after the sliding controls broke). Have not decided if I will go with the stock vinyl mat or upgrade it to the nice ACC carpet kit from RockAuto, which ever way I go it will get a full treatment of underlayment like I have done in the last few trucks. This really helps in insulating the truck floor and helps with sound deadening. I will remove the old radio and install the radio delete plate.

Door panels are in great shape, the drivers side has a wear mark where the drivers arm has rubbed of the paint over the years to match that on the upper door. Both of those areas will get a little CLR bath and buffed out with the machine. Right now I have the passenger side door panel off trying to work the regulator back and forth to get the window to roll up and down 100% both ways. If I cant get it all the way then they will be coming out and getting cleaned up and reworked. Both sides are that way been spraying PB penetrating oil and where I can reach I have been giving a squirt or two of Kroil which is by far the best I have ever used.

That will wrap it up for the interior this weekend.

[landarts]

Got a few more steps closer last night working on getting the fender ready and working on the stuck windows. Blocked out the high build epoxy primer and had three spots that needed some finishing putty. While that was drying I moved over to getting the windows to roll down.

When I bought the truck the windows had not been rolled down in almost twenty years and were stuck completely in the up position. I started with the passenger side by attempting to remove the metal door panel. There are four screws at the bottom that were rusted in a bit so I sprayed a little PB blaster on them and let them sit over night. Next day I was able to remove two of the four screws with a bit of effort. The other two did not budge so I thought I would try the Kroil oil again, let it sit over night again and was able to get out the third one. No go on the forth one on the outer edge farthest away from the hinge on the door. So I grabbed my drill, center punch and a few bits and some drilling lubricant. I progressively worked my way up on the bits an finally the screw head broke off and was able to remove the passenger door panel. After getting the panel off I started to work the window with handle and my hand pushing down on the window, up and down, up and down over and over again. After about five minutes I had it going down about six inches so I grabbed a light and a can of WD40 rust penetrating spray with the long flexible nozzle and started hosing down anything I could that might help. The next day I was able to get it to go down a few more inches with the help of my free hand pushing and pulling on the window while I cranked. This time I sprayed down the window channels at both ends and finally got it to go all the way down. After working a few minutes it was rolling up and down with hardly any effort. Next on to the drivers side for the same procedure.

Pict1 - front fender apron with final finishing glaze
Pict2 - front fender cup with glaze also
Pict3 - the door that was giving me a hard time
Pict4 - The window finally down for first time in 20 years

[landarts]

Busy weekend working on the second chance project. First thing was to get the shop cleaned up, tools in order and move this truck out to the driveway so I could get things cleaned up. Grabbed the seat out of the back of the bed and tossed it in without bolting it down, fired up the truck and backed it out of the garage, down the driveway and parked it in the street in front of the house. As I was walking back up the driveway it occurred to me that the truck just took its first drive on in twenty years. That was a pretty cool feeling that I was responsible for saving another truck.

I had received a few orders from the Brown Santa when I got home from work Friday afternoon. Seat cover showed up and the other box was gauge bezel, heater control repair kit and 5" round mirrors. Everything looked good until I opened the box on the seat cover and noticed right away that they sent the wrong seat cover. Wrong color and was supposed to be a two tone cover. So I double checked the invoice and the the product number and those were correct, the cover was not. So back it will go for another replacement.

Got the garage cleaned out a bit, rolled the K10 4x4 frame out into the drive and hooked up the tow bar and took it over to my storage lot next door to my neighborhood. that alone will really open up some working space. Then I started up the truck again and drove it into the garage and put it up on skates so it will be easy to move around in the garage depending on what I am working on.

First order was to wrap up whatever I needed on the front fender so I could get it mounted. Front side looked good and needed to flip iot over and address the inside extra 1/2" welding that I had to do because the repop part was not long enough. Spent about 30 to 40 minutes on that with a couple coats of Pro Gold filler and SEM black epoxy primer. I also noticed a very small area on the back of the fender where it mounts to the truck in the lower apron area had a rust spot about the size of a dime. After grinding a little bit I extended the repair area to about the size of a half dollar coin. Cut it out with a little reciprocating air saw. Made a template, cut it out and welded it in. A little grinding, a coat or two of Pro Gold and some epoxy primer and its ready to go.

[landarts]

I mounted the fender to the truck and all went well there so I moved onto a few other items I wanted to wrap up for the day. I had been soaking all the rusted mirror bolts over the last few days and was still not having any luck with getting the upper stock location ones off. So I grabbed the electric drill a box of drill bits, the drill doctor to sharpen a few of the up and some cutting fluid and went to town drilling them out.

After that was done I decide to buff out the rest of the passenger side to match the buffed out front fender. The bedside had two long surface scratches the length of the bed, looked like maybe a tree branch or something that would scratch it good enough but not break the surface of the paint. I used my larger buffer with a red foam pad and some of the Mystic Cut compound. It took about an hour to do the door and bedside, taking a little extra time to go over the scratch areas a few times to get them to disappear. I was also surprised at how much better the door looked with all the holes from the mirrors after the buffing.

Will probably go back with rivet nuts this time to mount the mirrors in the factory location. Also looked through a few boxes of parts I had in the garage and found another old set of the door mirrors with the rectangle mirror heads on them that were broken. The patina on the mirror arms will match good with the truck, so I will use the new 5" mirror heads and paint them with the 501 white I have and scuff up a little to match the patina.


Items left to do on truck:

• Get marker light and headlight installed
• Get seat tore down and ready for the replacement seat cover
• Remove gauge bezel, touchup needles with fresh paint and install new bezel
• Remove heater controls and install new sliders, while it is out I will soak all cables, clean out heater and replace vent tubing if needed
• Remove bed bolts so I can slide back bed and repair passenger side cab corner
• Once that is done I will use the color match paint to shoot the cab corner and fender repairs
• Install hood hinge and hood
• Finish CLR treatment on hood and driver side of body
• Finish buffing hood and drivers side
• Get wheels cleaned up and source one more hubcap
• Remount front bumper
• Go through brakes, make sure all is good and safe

Other Possible items for build before it is up for sale:

• Static drop or Porterbuilt stage one front and back bag system
• Vision American Muscle Rally wheels with new tires