ALMOST ready to fire it up

[Praxiss454]

Thought I'd share an update on my truck engine rebuild project. Since we had our 2nd kid a year ago last month, my truck time has been greatly diminished. I got the engine finally back into place, front clip reinstalled, and things mostly buttoned up. I still need to run the fuel and vacuum lines, and hook up the radiator.

It's definitely not the prettiest job, but I'm proud that I've made it this far. The true test will be whether it fires up.

My question for y'all is, what is supposed to go in the clips on the passenger side of the valve cover? Am I supposed to run the fuel and vacuum behind and around the back of the engine?

Thanks



You can see my original thread in my signature below, w/ some of the pics along the way.

[Steeveedee]

I'm pretty sure that the coil power wire and the original temp sender wire went in those.

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I'm pretty sure that the coil power wire and the original temp sender wire went in those.

Oh, I just assumed the temp sender that I currently have was original, I guess not?

I thought about maybe running the fuel and vacuum around the back using those clips but no sense in that I guess. I'm dreading trying to get the lines bent and flared though, always a pain in the butt for me.

[geezer#99]

Fuel and vacuum line go between the valve cover and thermo housing at the front.

[Bushman66]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I'm pretty sure that the coil power wire and the original temp sender wire went in those.

This is how it was on my 66 292 before I did the 350 conversion.

[Praxiss454]

Thanks guys. Another question...

Engine is assembled w/ assembly lube. Before I go to start it, I know I'm supposed to prime the oil so oil gets through all the channels. My old timer buddy suggested I disconnect and pull the spark plugs, and then just let the starter motor turn the engine briefly to push the oil through the engine.

Is this a terrible idea? The oil pump on this engine takes a slot style connection at the bottom of the dizzy, so the generic primer tool from the auto parts store isn't going to work. My other option is to pull the dizzy, and try to fashion my own tool to drive the pump manually.

[Bushman66]

Get the proper tool, it's about $20. Spin it with an electric drill. I wouldnt crank the engine at all until you are ready to fire it. The pump will fill all the passages with oil. Spin it until all the rockers have oil running through them.

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by Bushman66

Get the proper tool, it's about $20. Spin it with an electric drill. I wouldnt crank the engine at all until you are ready to fire it. The pump will fill all the passages with oil. Spin it until all the rockers have oil cing through them.

I will happily pay $20 to do it right, but this is what the top of my oil pump looks like, w/ the slot style shaft which engages the dizzy. Do you happen to know if the generic tool I can buy at an auto parts store fit this style?

[scottofksu]

What about a LONG flat screwdriver with the handle cut off so it can fit your drill chuck?

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by scottofksu

What about a LONG flat screwdriver with the handle cut off so it can fit your drill chuck?

This is another thought I had. I'm gonna take the old pump up to NAPA today and see what they say.

[cj847]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tOYLlr8uQ8k

[Bushman66]

Originally Posted by Praxiss454

I will happily pay $20 to do it right, but this is what the top of my oil pump looks like, w/ the slot style shaft which engages the dizzy. Do you happen to know if the generic tool I can buy at an auto parts store fit this style?

I don't think the distributor bosses (collars) are the same diameter on the small block Chevy and the inline 6's, so the generic tool might not work. You'd have to either find the correct tool online, cut down an old distributor and use the shaft, or improvise with a cut down screwdriver (this will work, we did this 40 years ago in high school to prime my friends I6).

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by Bushman66

I don't think the distributor bosses (collars) are the same diameter on the small block Chevy and the inline 6's, so the generic tool might not work. You'd have to either find the correct tool online, cut down an old distributor and use the shaft, or improvise with a cut down screwdriver (this will work, we did this 40 years ago in high school to prime my friends I6).

Damn I have one long screw driver I could cut down for this, but I LIKE that old screwdriver. Might have to get creative.

[Bushman66]

I'd just go buy a cheap Harbor Freight screwdriver, I wouldnt be cutting down a Snap On. Haha

[geezer#99]

Screwdriver modded isn’t he best idea. Hard to keep it flush and square. Better to mod an old distributor.
And you should have the valve cover off while priming to look for oil on the rockers.

[Steeveedee]

Just know that if you run the driver long enough, the assembly lube may wash off. Since there will be oil on everything, that shouldn't be an issue. Just start it soon after. If you have a new cam, be sure to run some break-in lube, too. I've never had a cam go flat using the EOS from Chevrolet or an equivalent for break-in. With the oils one sees these days, one has to be careful on the choice or risk cam/lifter excessive wear and early failure.

[Bushman66]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Screwdriver modded isn’t he best idea. Hard to keep it flush and square. Better to mod an old distributor.
And you should have the valve cover off while priming to look for oil on the rockers.

Agreed. The screwdriver method was out of necessity and high school financial limitations.

I just started my 350 crate motor up. I pre-oiled using the Moroso tool from Summit. I actually pulled all my lifters to put additional assy lube on them and to ensure the valves were adjusted correctly. I used Lucas Break In oil with half a bottle of Lucas Zinc additive. Fired on first crank and immediately run between 2000 and 2500 RPM for 25 minutes. Drained the oil and now running Lucas Hot Rod oil to seat the rings. At 500 miles I'll switch over to Redline oil. Pulled the plugs a few hundred miles in and they look perfect

Good luck with first start! The most fun thing to do!

[doobiebro]

Get yourself and old non working distributor and modify it like mentioned..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGya_2qSEMA

[Praxiss454]

How long should it generally take to get oil to all the parts of the engine? As soon as I see it bubbling out the pushrods am I good or should I run it for a certain amount of time?

[geezer#99]

That’s all you’ll need.
Don’t expect a gusher from them.
Likely only one or two will show much.
You’ve got the rockers lubed already.

[Praxiss454]

12Bolt has L6 dizzy-based priming tools available for $25 each with $15 shipping. Kinda steep (these things add up) but I just ordered one. At least I won't worry about doing it wrong, or worry about trying to fabricate one.

[Bushman66]

Originally Posted by Praxiss454

How long should it generally take to get oil to all the parts of the engine? As soon as I see it bubbling out the pushrods am I good or should I run it for a certain amount of time?

On my 350, spinning the pre-luber with an air ratchet (drill chuck wasn't large enough for the pre-luber hex shaft, had to use a socket), I spun it for about 7-8 minutes until I had flow up ALL of the pushrods. A couple of them were kind of stubborn, but if you spin it long enough, you should have flow to all of the rockers. I also took a squirt type oil can and coated all of the valve train before buttoning up the valve covers.

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by Praxiss454

12Bolt has L6 dizzy-based priming tools available for $25 each with $15 shipping. Kinda steep (these things add up) but I just ordered one. At least I won't worry about doing it wrong, or worry about trying to fabricate one.

Almost easier to upgrade to an hei and use your points dizzy to prime with.

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Almost easier to upgrade to an hei and use your points dizzy to prime with.

I eliminated the points with the PerTronix 1162A ignitor kit, but didn't go full HEI.

I have fluid in the engine now, ran the vacuum and fuel lines. Just about ready to fire it up. The priming tool has arrived, so I am good on that front. I just need a few hours of uninterrupted time to finish the last few things that remain.

Dumb question, but dizzy shaft spins clockwise, right? Just want to make sure when I start priming the oil, I have the drill turning the correct way.

If it DOESN'T spin clockwise, I've hooked up the spark plugs in the opposite order and another problem to deal with.

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Screwdriver modded isn’t he best idea. Hard to keep it flush and square. Better to mod an old distributor...

That's what I did.