Need ideas for an ECC for Boyd Welding tank

[jcwren]

I installed a Boyd Welding tank, and dumped the vent line down the side. Problem it's stinking the garage up something fierce. The truck was not originally equipped with an ECC system, so I'll need to get an aftermarket charcoal canister.

There's two ways these things can be plumbed. One is using the manifold vacuum and timed vacuum port. The other is some method using a electric purge solenoid. This was referenced as coming from the H.A.M.B. journal, but I haven't yet found that article, so I don't really know what they've got connected where.

I'm looking for the simplest method to plumb this, as far as number of vent/vacuum lines routed.

The other issue is I don't see a practical way to put a 10" or higher loop in the vent line to reduce the chance of liquid gas getting into the charcoal canister.

Anyone have ideas for plumbing something in?

[MySons68C20]

Sub'd

[notsolo]

Probably not the same as what your working with. On mine 93 5.7 TBI, 3 lines out of the top of the tank, fuel out, return and vent. Vent line runs up the drivers side to the charcoal can which I added in between head light and the Radiator. Other side of the charcoal canister goes in the TBI carb. Also a rollover vent on the tank....Charcoal canister came off a mid 90's truck, along with some of the lines to the carb.....And it is a Boyd side fill.

[jcwren]

Originally Posted by notsolo

Probably not the same as what your working with. On mine 93 5.7 TBI, 3 lines out of the top of the tank, fuel out, return and vent. Vent line runs up the drivers side to the charcoal can which I added in between head light and the Radiator. Other side of the charcoal canister goes in the TBI carb. Also a rollover vent on the tank....Charcoal canister came off a mid 90's truck, along with some of the lines to the carb.....And it is a Boyd side fill.

Currently running the mechanical fuel pump on the engine and drawing from the bottom of the tank. If I were to ever go with an EFI system, I'd have to get the in-tank pump and plumb a return line. So just the suck line and the vent.

[jcwren]

I read all the H.A.M.B. articles I could find, none had any details on the electric purge solenoid, other than wiring it to the ignition. I'm still not clear why there's a manifold vacuum and the timing port vacuum, and how that valve I see connected to the tank is intended to operate.

I'm also coming to two conclusions. The first is I need to get a loop in the vent line as high as possible, since fuel vapors sink.

The second is I only care about fumes in the garage. I may as well put a quick disconnect on the end of the vent line, run a line outside through the wall, and connect it to the quick disconnect when it's in the garage. Fuel vapor vents outside, problem solved. Could even come up with a magnetic coupling so I wouldn't have to remember to disconnect it

[notsolo]

For the high loop vent, Maybe you can work something like this...post.. #635 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...318544&page=26

[jcwren]

Originally Posted by notsolo

For the high loop vent, Maybe you can work something like this...post.. #635 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...318544&page=26

Yeah, I think I'll grab some hard line tomorrow and fab something like that up. I kinda wondered about that as a possibility, but hadn't wandered down to the truck to take a look-see.

[jcwren]

I've figured out that a lot of the gas stink is actually coming from the rubber AN fuel line. I can actually sniff the hose and smell it. Ordered some PTFE hose and fittings, along with some aluminum tubing to do the fender vent loop. If it's still bad enough after the fender vent loop, then I'll look at putting a charcoal canister in.

[notsolo]

I am going with a 3/8 hard line up the passenger side on my pickup, charcoal canister and carb fitting are on that side. Hope I don't need a loop.

[jcwren]

Originally Posted by notsolo

I am going with a 3/8 hard line up the passenger side on my pickup, charcoal canister and carb fitting are on that side. Hope I don't need a loop.

That's probably the way to go. I looked at using aluminum line, and a lot of people feel that's not a good idea because of potential chafing and damage. Car makers may have done it, it was thought into the design, it's protected and well supported.

Steel line is not too hard to form, but can rust, and if you need flare fittings, they're harder to form.

Copper/nickel line is better than aluminum or steel, still needs to be well supported, and if you still need flares, can be difficult.

Stainless is ideal, but more difficult to form cleanly and to flare.

Straight copper line is an absolute no-no. All hard hard line needs to be supported every 20" with proper rubber coated clamps, and additional supports at any critical points.

Anything on a roll needs to be straightened first. There's 3 different techniques I've seen. Floor rolling, pulling it through a wooden block, or a proper straightening tool. A good size-specific tool is around $100, a multi-size tool is $200+. Some people have built them out of scrap box steel stock and sliding glass door rollers, but with the time and money invested in that, you may as well buy one.

"Difficult" means not having the correct tools, or having enough experience to do it right the first time. It'd suck to get down to the last fitting, mess up the flare, and have to put an extension or all new line in.

For me, since I've already got stainless braided rubber AN line installed, it's just a matter of replacing it with PTFE line and new fittings, so that's the more logical for me. If I were starting from scratch, I'd likely buy a couple 96" sections of straight stainless with fittings, and plumb it so that I'd only need to flare one end.

[notsolo]

I think what I have is 3/8" copper nickle, it's mostly strait. I will let you know, It's in the frame but not laying flat enough (Yet) to get the clips on. I was going to use a 3/8 rubber fuel hose on either end to connect to tank and charcoal canister.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by notsolo

I am going with a 3/8 hard line up the passenger side on my pickup, charcoal canister and carb fitting are on that side. Hope I don't need a loop.

The high loop is to keep fuel from flooding the charcoal canister. This can happen when filling the fuel tank or when driving with a mostly full tank and as the fuel sloshes it can force fuel into the vent tubing. Once the fuel is in the tube it can be drawn into the canister.
The high loop needs to be higher than the fill or it needs to be designed with a vacuum breaker ( like GM did on Blazers and Burbans) to prevent raw fuel from being drawn into the canister. Just parking on a steep enough hill with no high loop or vacuum break can allow fuel to drain to the canister and out the bottom.

[notsolo]

Thanks for the input HO55, and jcwren for posting in the 1st place... been putting this off On the 71 it had a high loop up behind the seat. With the rear fill, have to fab something like on Bruce's Just a pick up.( like in photo ) I have to think on how to run a loop up in the fleetside.

[HO455]

Here are some photos of the Suburban/ Blazer vacuum breaker set up. I hope Richard2717 doesn't mind me lifting them from his thread.

[notsolo]

From Bruce's just a pickup page 32.... also has 6 cylinder set up on the same page....http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?t=318544&