Dana 60 Pinion Seal

[SavageC20]

I am freshening up a Dana 60 with a power-lok that is out of a 1969 c20. I plan on putting this rear end in my 72 c20.

How do I go about changing the pinion seal on this rear end? Specifically, what is the procedure for re-torqueing the pinion nut?

There are no signs of a pinion seal leak on this rear end but I feel like I should change it along with the axle seals while i'm at it.

[kwmech]

Nothing special--remove the nut, pull the yoke (probably with a puller if ti is sealed correctly). Remove seal, install new seal.

Hint: when installing the new seal use a bearing race 603010 (I think) after you put some grease on the spring to keep it from bouncing off when you pound the seal in. Install yoke and torque a new nut to about 150 ish. Don't worry about the preload as it has shims not a crush sleeve

[57taskforce]

Have someone hold the brakes while you torque the nut. The parking brakes will work to if they are adjusted correctly.

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by kwmech

Nothing special--remove the nut, pull the yoke (probably with a puller if ti is sealed correctly). Remove seal, install new seal.

Hint: when installing the new seal use a bearing race 603010 (I think) after you put some grease on the spring to keep it from bouncing off when you pound the seal in. Install yoke and torque a new nut to about 150 ish. Don't worry about the preload as it has shims not a crush sleeve

Sounds pretty correct to me, if you torque this one too much your pumpkin will heat up. Too loose, with the shims and you will get noise.

[tj1970cst]

If you run without replacing the seal, what would it hurt?

Worst case it leaks and then you can put the seal in. Right?

[SavageC20]

Originally Posted by kwmech

Nothing special--remove the nut, pull the yoke (probably with a puller if ti is sealed correctly). Remove seal, install new seal.

Hint: when installing the new seal use a bearing race 603010 (I think) after you put some grease on the spring to keep it from bouncing off when you pound the seal in. Install yoke and torque a new nut to about 150 ish. Don't worry about the preload as it has shims not a crush sleeve

Sounds good ill give it a go. I thought the the dana had a crush sleeve, but i'm glad it doesn't.

Also, do you know if I need a case spreader to get the carrier out of the housing? When the time comes I am wondering if I will be able to replace the clutches in the diff with basic tools.

Thank you.

[SavageC20]

Originally Posted by tj1970cst

If you run without replacing the seal, what would it hurt?

Worst case it leaks and then you can put the seal in. Right?

I'd rather deal with it now while the axle is out of the truck. Once I install it I hope to not have to worry about it for a long time.

[kwmech]

Originally Posted by SavageC20

Sounds good ill give it a go. I thought the the dana had a crush sleeve, but i'm glad it doesn't.

Also, do you know if I need a case spreader to get the carrier out of the housing? When the time comes I am wondering if I will be able to replace the clutches in the diff with basic tools.

Thank you.

All the diffs I build I do not use a case spreader, just pry it out and hammer it in. (BFRH) Gives me a better idea on pre load

[Wrenchbender Ret]

I sure would not change it if it is not leaking. That fresh grease will soften the seal & it will last for years.
It has been a long time since I have done one but i'm thinking that rear end has a crush sleeve. Either way I would mark the position of the nut & put it back the way it was.
George

[kwmech]

NO CRUSH SLEEVE in a Dana 60 unless you have a new set of 5.38s