70 gmc lower steering column bearing

[macdaddy70]

As you can see, mine is gone and appears this is common for these trucks. I have looked at several threads on this and all say the entire column has to be removed to install the lower bearing. Is this the case? Can I not seperate the column and install the bearing from under hood?

[REDROCKER652002]

Not 100 percent sure, but I believe you will have to pull everything out. The bearing has to slip over the steering shaft I think, unless you can get the rag joint off, then maybe. I cannot remember, but I think you may end up having to take it all apart. But the pro's here will chime in. Good luck

[macdaddy70]

UPDATE: I did have to remove the shaft up through the cab. In the process of doing this I decided to rebuild the rag joint. I could not get the clearance needed to install the bearing/retainer. So far I have everyhing removed, cleaned, painted just have to re-assemble.
One other question, The rag joint had a ground strap on it that I broke and soldered back together. What is this used for? If I do not reinstall, what will be affected?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by macdaddy70

UPDATE: I did have to remove the shaft up through the cab. In the process of doing this I decided to rebuild the rag joint. I could not get the clearance needed to install the bearing/retainer. So far I have everyhing removed, cleaned, painted just have to re-assemble.
One other question, The rag joint had a ground strap on it that I broke and soldered back together. What is this used for? If I do not reinstall, what will be affected?

Probably your horn won't work.... Unless it finds a ground through another channel.

LockDoc

[macdaddy70]

THanks for the response. Seems like there a lot of these ground wires on this truck.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by macdaddy70

THanks for the response. Seems like there a lot of these ground wires on this truck.

Yes there are and it really needs all of them or you can start having problems with some of the lights, signals, gauges, etc.

LockDoc

[macdaddy70]

Hey guys. So I have the wife in the cab and push the shaft back through the column and into the new bearing. First it slips over the splines with no issue then immediately after the splines there is a lip that the internal oring catches and does not want to go any further without putting a lot of pressure on it. Once oring gets past that lip it slides with no issue. I am unsure how far to push the shaft into the bearing since the old one was shot. There is a polished area on the shaft (2" from end) that appears to be where the bearing was riding, but not 100% sure that is where it is supposed to be. Pic shows it in a vise with bearing on the polished area. Second, I have read some info on preload and sound like just compress the spring a little. DOes this sound right, or is there a method to this as well. Looking for guidance please. Thanks in advance.

[macdaddy70]

IVe been searching and think I found my answer. Bottom of bearing should be about 3/4-1 inch from large washer to bottom of bearing.

[randy500]

The bearing goes about there...but there is a procedure to follow.
The bearing should move freely on the shaft, sand the shaft if needed.
Inside the bearing race that rides on the shaft is an o ring that just keeps it from falling off the shaft.
In your first picture you are missing a spring whihc sits between the bearing and the large diameter washer.
The spring preloads the bearings in the column.
With the steering wheel off connect the column splines with spring and washer in place to
the intermediate shaft.
Then install the steering wheel, make sure you have the correct tapered horn contact which rides in the upper column bearing. As you tighten the steering wheel it pulls the steering shaft against the spring preloading the upper and lower bearings.

[randy500]

In picture 2 it looks like your spring is behind the bearing....it goes on the outer part of the bearing between the bearing and large washer.

[LockDoc]

-
Here is what it should look like.

When putting it back together you just have to put some upward pressure on the intermediate flex joint while someone holds down on the steering wheel to get the pre-load on the bearing retainer spring, then tighten the clamp. If you don't have someone push down on the steering wheel while you put upward pressure on the intermediate joint it will push the shaft and steering wheel up instead of pre-loading the spring. The pre-load distance depends on the year of your truck. The pre-load distance is measured between the large washer and the bottom of the bearing where the spring sits. On a '67 the distance is 7/8".

The groove in the shaft where the bolt goes through the clamp is wide enough to allow for 3/8-1/2" of movement, which should be enough to make the adjustment.

LockDoc

[macdaddy70]

Project complete. Few bumps along the way but got er done. Last issue was steering wheel did not want to go on. The shaft was too far down the column and splines werent engaging. Got that resolved and drove it for a few miles. A lot smoother with a good bearing... HA. Pics attached, but not sure how to rotate. Thanks for the help.

[RDF503]

Need help finding this part #9

Steering washer both part's

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by RDF503

Need help finding this part #9

Steering washer both part's

Also known as Rubber Ring #39 and Plastic Thrust Washer #40 shown in the picture and diagram below.

They are not used on tilt columns. They can be hard to find.

LockDoc