rear repair panel

[jaros44sr]

Has any one used a patch panel from AMD to repair eye brow on the rear bed side, they only list a pickup in the application part # 730-4067-1R

[stangtjk]

I used a small section of that patch panel. I only needed the lower rear quarter section but the two other patches I ordered didn't have the detail around the lip.

[stangtjk]

Duplicate

[jaros44sr]

so,part# 730-4067L, apperars to have a thumb nail concave bend as per AMD sales person, seems like a good choice, I'll order it up tomorrow and see

Thanks for the pics, time for me to get those clamps, I've been putting off

Nice work on the panel repair

[hemi43]

I had originally purchased the parts you mentioned, but because they are designed for a pickup they didn't fit correctly, and as you said only one side had that detail. The Blazers taper at the rear much faster than the PUs because they are shorter.
I opted to use the full arch to get that nice "thumbnail" detail and fabricated the rest. My lip wasn't rotted out, but had a couple pinholes.You can just see what I mean in the first picture where the rear of the new panel is much lower than the original quarter panel. It wasn't much more work to replace the whole thing.Worked well for me

[jaros44sr]

Thanks Hemi for the info. You were the first I thought of going thru your build.Are you saying you bought a whole bedside, and removed the piece you needed?

[stangtjk]

I think he also used the panel you listed which is the full arch he just used more of it than I did. I believe the other panels he was referring to as being truck specific were the lower rear sections that extend from the back of the wheel arch to the tail light. That's all I would have needed if they were available for the Blazer but I believe the ones available are for long bed pick-ups and aren't worth trying to make work.

[1rippen6]

Which side do you need, I have this one and a starter bracket. Also, caliper bolts if you want oem

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Thanks Hemi for the info. You were the first I thought of going thru your build.Are you saying you bought a whole bedside, and removed the piece you needed?

Hey Jim;

I used just the arch repair panel. If I would do another Blazer, I would just use a complete new 1/4 panel. I would have gone this route when I built my truck, but they were not available back then.

[pound41]

Chevrolet Chevy GMC Truck Quarter Panel Section Set L&R 1967-1972 Schott
I copied this title off of ebay. Not sure if these are newer pieces or older ones. Schott and one other company had some panels out back in the late 80's or so when I first started looking for panels. I have a 1/4 panel that is 2 pieces a front and rear section you weld in the middle to make a complete quarter. actually looks pretty good. but there panels were for blazers only as best as I can remember

[stangtjk]

Are the full repro panels any good? From my experience with patch panels they are always made of softer steel than the original sheet metal. Not sure it they use hot rolled vs cold rolled or a different composition all together but always noticably softer. I think that's why most of the repro tailgates are junk, soft steel in a high abuse area so they are easily dented and twisted. I usually try to use the least amount of a patch that I can get away with.

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by stangtjk

Are the full repro panels any good? From my experience with patch panels they are always made of softer steel than the original sheet metal. Not sure it they use hot rolled vs cold rolled or a different composition all together but always noticably softer. I think that's why most of the repro tailgates are junk, soft steel in a high abuse area so they are easily dented and twisted. I usually try to use the least amount of a patch that I can get away with.

I used a repro tailgate as well as repro fenders. The tailgate needed a bit of massaging on the edges but that's about it. The fenders were absolutely perfect. In fact, all I did was remove the e-coat (I don't trust it from Taiwan) and sprayed polyester primer over bare steel, block then epoxied (no filler or grinding). The fit along the hood line and door edge was perfect. I'm not sure how many places make the parts, but the ones I got I very satisfied with. I agree the steel is softer than late model panels, but that's what you want. At least you can work with this stuff without it warping as soon as you put any heat to it.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by 1rippen6

Which side do you need, I have this one and a starter bracket. Also, caliper bolts if you want oem

Thanks for the response Dwayne, but I need the upper part right above the tire. Shame, But I really only need the Flat part as the rest of the eyebrow is in nice shape.

Put the starter bracket up for sale on the parts board, and I will buy it, for a reasonable price

Thanks guys for all the input, now I have some ideas on how to aproach this problem. Pound41, I sourced Schott, and all I found was early truck parts. At this time, I'm thinking just cut the flat piece out of sheet metal, flange it and weld back in

[stangtjk]

I've still got the rest of the panel I didn't use. What remains is the top of the arch an inch or so above the body line. If what is left fixes your spot you can have it if you want to cover shipping.

[jaros44sr]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2irwPrr]20200210_094318

This is the area I need to work on, it's just the flat area, does your patch cover any of it, thanks for the offer

[stangtjk]

This is what I have left of the driver's side panel. If you only need a short piece you might be able to get a chunk that matches the curvature where you are working.

[jaros44sr]

I need two pieces maybe 7 inches long so that piece may work. Can I buy it from you?

[hemi43]

Hey Jim;
Replace the whole lip. I guarantee you that within 6 months it will have pin holes where you didn't repair it. Mine looked better than yours and when I cut it out you could see the rot on the backside.
The picture with the holes is after I used a pick hammer on it.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by hemi43

Hey Jim;
Replace the whole lip. I guarantee you that within 6 months it will have pin holes where you didn't repair it. Mine looked better than yours and when I cut it out you could see the rot on the backside.
The picture with the holes is after I used a pick hammer on it.

Thanks Bud, I want to see what patches are availaible, and who makes. My fender looks pretty good, but as you said, looks are deceiving, but at least now I have a plan to move forward on.

This is the best board on the net

[orange72blazer]

Originally Posted by 1rippen6

Which side do you need, I have this one and a starter bracket. Also, caliper bolts if you want oem

I may need that patch panel if its still available. How much do you want for it?

[richard2717]

Jim
I got mine from GMC Pauls.

$33 per side for the wheel arches or they have a fuller panel for $155. They also have lower patches for the blazer now as well

https://gmcpauls.com/bed_patch_panels.htm

.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by richard2717

Jim
I got mine from GMC Pauls.

$33 per side for the wheel arches or they have a fuller panel for $155. They also have lower patches for the blazer now as well

https://gmcpauls.com/bed_patch_panels.htm

.

Thanks Richard, it looks like the one in AMD's catalog for same price, just trying to confirm the fit as they state its for a pick up

[richard2717]

Jim
I have not used it yet (got it for the panel truck) I will overlay on the Blazer today and post a pic for you

[jaros44sr]

Thanks Richard, let me know how it fits

[richard2717]

Jim
Here are 2 shots of the panel just being held up with magnets. It seems to be a decent weight to it and it looks like it will fit decent once cut and matched. The lower front 1/4 patch is even better I think. It does have the inverted edge on the wheel opening like original


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