Budget AC ? Factory AC Cab

[phlegm]

My Compressor was migrated to R134 years ago by an idiot (not me). it blew shortly after. It appears everything is OK except the compressor best I can tell. I want to simply replace the compressor/dreyer, pull a vacuum and put 134 in it and see if it works.

Does that sound right? Summit has all this for about 290.00

[randy500]

thats a rebuilt compressor, you would be better off with this new aluminum body one at about $311 on amaozon
Four Seasons 58098
You can get a steel replacement dryer for about $18 or so

[randy500]

I restored a few AC systems over the past 1.5 years, 3 pumps, all were leaking, put in new body o-rings, original ceramic seals and hose o rings, didnt have any luck with the “upgrade” lip seal due to rust on the shaft where it rides,
Takes a few tools but they are not too expensive.

[phlegm]

Originally Posted by randy500

thats a rebuilt compressor, you would be better off with this new aluminum body one at about $311 on amaozon
Four Seasons 58098
You can get a steel replacement dryer for about $18 or so

Great that looks light, and that'll be a welcome change. This is the model number I wasn't able to find thank you

[phlegm]

Originally Posted by randy500

I restored a few AC systems over the past 1.5 years, 3 pumps, all were leaking, put in new body o-rings, original ceramic seals and hose o rings, didnt have any luck with the “upgrade” lip seal due to rust on the shaft where it rides,
Takes a few tools but they are not too expensive.

Mine was more than just it quit working my clutch hub froze up and it started smoking when it went bad. I replace the clutch up with was never able to get it to work properly.

[phlegm]

Originally Posted by randy500

thats a rebuilt compressor, you would be better off with this new aluminum body one at about $311 on amaozon
Four Seasons 58098
You can get a steel replacement dryer for about $18 or so

Did these normally fit up pretty easily?

[randy500]

Originally Posted by phlegm

Did these normally fit up pretty easily?

Pump bolts right up no problems, same with the steel dryer.
The make a metric thread pump too, part number is one digit different, it inlcudes bracket bolts, just need to buy a metric bolt for the lineset.

[randy500]

Buy a $40 vac pump off amazon or ebay.
Buy a set of quality imperial or yellow jacket guages
Use a digital postal scale to weigh the 134a, be very precise.

[phlegm]

Originally Posted by randy500

Pump bolts right up no problems, same with the steel dryer.
The make a metric thread pump too, part number is one digit different, it inlcudes bracket bolts, just need to buy a metric bolt for the lineset.

Awesome! So far my PU is all original apparently, all SAE with the work I Have done so far.

[randy500]

The real guessing game is how much oil is in he system an dhow much you should add.
Further complicated by how much oil is needed with the new style compressor.
The A6 has an oil reservoir, i think it stores about 4-5 ounces.

Measure how much oil is in the old compressor when you remove it. The aluminum compressor requires maybe 4-5 ounces less total oil in the system because it doesnt have. A reservoir, i could find any specs on how much less oil the system would need with it.

Measure oil removed with medical 5-6 ounce irrigation syringes, there pretty cheap on amazon.

[randy500]

I bought the metric aluminum compressor because i found on for about $200, big savings.

[phlegm]

Originally Posted by randy500

The real guessing game is how much oil is in he system an dhow much you should add.
Further complicated by how much oil is needed with the new style compressor.
The A6 has an oil reservoir, i think it stores about 4-5 ounces.

Measure how much oil is in the old compressor when you remove it. The aluminum compressor requires maybe 4-5 ounces less total oil in the system because it doesnt have. A reservoir, i could find any specs on how much less oil the system would need with it.

Measure oil removed with medical 5-6 ounce irrigation syringes, there pretty cheap on amazon.

wooden pulling a vacuum on the system evacuate all the oil and give me a fresh start? I have a friend with a vacuum pump and gauges who is going to help me once I get it mountedmounted

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by phlegm

wooden pulling a vacuum on the system evacuate all the oil and give me a fresh start? I have a friend with a vacuum pump and gauges who is going to help me once I get it mountedmounted

No. When pulling a vacuum all you're doing is boiling the water out of the system.

When I did it I completely flushed every component, started with 0 ounces of oil, then added what the book said I needed. It was around 11 ounces if memory serves.

[mrein3]

My AC job recently was moved back to the top of this forum:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=478564

[Myself]

Originally Posted by mrein3

No. When pulling a vacuum all you're doing is boiling the water out of the system.

When I did it I completely flushed every component

Yes, do this. I use a bit of tubing, a funnel, and a catch can with paper towels in it. Funnel some acetone or laquer thinner into the condenser and evaporator, blow it on through with 30 or 40psi. The insides need to be clean, you'll be surprised what kind of gunk comes out.

[phlegm]

Originally Posted by mrein3

My AC job recently was moved back to the top of this forum:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=478564

Thanks, Subscribed! so basically just pull it apart, flush it with mineral spirits, blow it out. put it back together, new dryer new Compressor. Fill with oil fill with Freon. is that about it?

[randy500]

If the compressor didn't fail internally, such as lock up and the lines have not been open for long periods of time then there is no need to flush it out.
If the compressor failed then you must flush it out.

[Richard]

For a 134a conversion on a stock (ish) system. A more efficient condenser such as a crossflow should be used. 134a operates at different pressures and will need to reject more heat. The POA valve needs to be adjusted as well to operate correctly. The R12 TXV is close enough to work well. Other than that pull vacuum, charge with proper oil and refrigerant. 15% less than the R12 requirement is a good starting point.

[phlegm]

Originally Posted by Richard

For a 134a conversion on a stock (ish) system. A more efficient condenser such as a crossflow should be used. 134a operates at different pressures and will need to reject more heat. The POA valve needs to be adjusted as well to operate correctly. The R12 TXV is close enough to work well. Other than that pull vacuum, charge with proper oil and refrigerant. 15% less than the R12 requirement is a good starting point.

The original issue was a mechanic who channged up the valves and fittings for 134a. but i may be best to just take the parts to a mechanic who is trusted and let them handle it from there on a per hr labor rate. jsut to make sure stuff is right.

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by phlegm

Thanks, Subscribed! so basically just pull it apart, flush it with mineral spirits, blow it out. put it back together, new dryer new Compressor. Fill with oil fill with Freon. is that about it?

Not quite. I was putting together a factory system with pieces that I had. I used new AC hoses, a new receiver/dryer, and a new expansion valve.

I replaced every o-ring in the system. I flushed all used parts.

The used compressor was "flushed" by measuring an amount of oil, putting it it the compressor, turning it a few cycles, then measuring that that amount came back out. I did this operation two or three times.

I adjusted my POA valve to work with R134a. Freon (R12) works better but I'm saving my stash for my Chevelles. There used to be a website that showed how to adjust the POA. You blow 60 PSI in the expansion valve. On your AC guage on the POA you should see 28 or 30 I forget exactly what you see in stock form. The stock stock setting is for R12. You need to adjust that to 26.5 for R134a via a set screw you can see looking in one end of the
POA.

Put everything together. Pull a vacuum. You want -30 inches of Hg so the water in the atmosphere - which is also in your system - boils away. Turn off your vacuum pump and walk away for 30 - 45 minutes. Make sure the exact same negative vacuum is present. If not you got a leak. Fix it and try again with the vacuum.

Then it is fill and you're done.

[MARKDTN]

If I were in your shoes I would pony up for a Sanden compressor and brackets and put it back R12.

[phlegm]

I am not opposed to going back to R 12 (freeze 12) so that it functions better, but that means all the fittings etc would have to be changed again right? I think I am over my head, but I cant find anyone I trust around here that wont charge me 6 bills just in labor. My normal guy wont answer my text, which means he doesnt want it good news is I have a few months to figure it out.

[Andy4639]

I have 134-A in my 71 C10 and 64 SS Impala and they both will freeze you to death if you run them on high. The people who state R12 is better just don't know. R134-A will cool as good as R-12 and it's better for our world so they say.

Things to know though.

Block off any way air can go around the condenser & radiator, this is a must on any system. You want the flow going through them not around them.

You need the system setup right and don't skip anything.
The major thing is a good compressor that will cycle. The old ones that are for these trucks just aren't the ones to use unless you just want the right look. In the long run they want hold up for everyday use. I tried 4 of them and just gave up. I tried used, rebuilt, new you name it they all failed.
Buy a good quality compressor.
Here is a link to my upgrade in the C 10. I had them do away with the drier though not need with the accumulator I already had.

The pictures of the outside & inside temps was it sitting in the garage. With a fan blowing on it. When driving it will drop to 36/38*.

https://www.originalair.com/67-72-ch...t-134a-stage-2

[phlegm]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

I have 134-A in my 71 C10 and 64 SS Impala and they both will freeze you to death if you run them on high. The people who state R12 is better just don't know. R134-A will cool as good as R-12 and it's better for our world so they say.

Things to know though.

Block off any way air can go around the condenser & radiator, this is a must on any system. You want the flow going through them not around them.

You need the system setup right and don't skip anything.
The major thing is a good compressor that will cycle. The old ones that are for these trucks just aren't the ones to use unless you just want the right look. In the long run they want hold up for everyday use. I tried 4 of them and just gave up. I tried used, rebuilt, new you name it they all failed.
Buy a good quality compressor.
Here is a link to my upgrade in the C 10. I had them do away with the drier though not need with the accumulator I already had.

The pictures of the outside & inside temps was it sitting in the garage. With a fan blowing on it. When driving it will drop to 36/38*.

https://www.originalair.com/67-72-ch...t-134a-stage-2

Thanks Andy, I haven't seen this kit!

[phlegm]

Hi guys, getting ready to tackle this. I got the 4 seasons 58098 Compressor. a dreyer, and an expansion valve. i went ahead and got the system flush as well and plan to rent / borrow gauges, vac, and flush kit from Orileys. I cannot find any definitive recommendation for what type and amount of PAG oil to put in this system. Even the 4 Seasons site just says cehck the sticker under the hood but thats for R12 of course.

Can anyone tell me how much to put in for 134A?

thanks