T5 install...it’s a go...

[Abomb]

I’ve had a 1989 firebird T5 transmission kicking around my shop for about 6 years now. I bought it for my 55 Chevy at an auction for $20, and never got around to installing it in the car because I didn’t know how to deal with the electronic speedometer output...Since I bought my 67, I’ve been doing a little research, and came to find out that there’s gears in there, it’s just a matter of changing the output...well, my truck is a 283 /3 speed already, with a 3.73 posi rear axle, so it makes far more sense to put it in the truck...I installed bucket seats last weekend, this weekend it starts in earnest... clutch kit is ordered, I found a place to machine the flywheel, I should be good to go....wish me luck...

[Steeveedee]

Cool! I hope it works out.

[jocko]

I think you'll be very happy with the end result. Here's a thread highlighting all the stuff I goofed up along the way in my T5 swap (in a 66, but exact same idea) might have some info you could use Good news with the F-body trans is that no spacer is needed. If I recall, the F-body tailshaft housing is mounted in a twisted way relative to the main case, so requires either the original shifter, or at least a shifter intended for an F-body that 'de-twists' so the stick comes up straight (believe this was so it could position the stick properly in the offset Camaro/Firebird console). Only mention in case you're thinking of changing shifter handles, might be something to think about. Nice that you have buckets, no S10 tailshaft stuff to worry about. Show us some pics when you're done! My 66 was a 283/3OTT/3.73 combo also - the T5 made a world of difference.

[57Suburb]

Originally Posted by jocko

I think you'll be very happy with the end result. Here's a thread highlighting all the stuff I goofed up along the way in my T5 swap (in a 66, but exact same idea) might have some info you could use Good news with the F-body trans is that no spacer is needed. If I recall, the F-body tailshaft housing is mounted in a twisted way relative to the main case, so requires either the original shifter, or at least a shifter intended for an F-body that 'de-twists' so the stick comes up straight (believe this was so it could position the stick properly in the offset Camaro/Firebird console). Only mention in case you're thinking of changing shifter handles, might be something to think about. Nice that you have buckets, no S10 tailshaft stuff to worry about. Show us some pics when you're done! My 66 was a 283/3OTT/3.73 combo also - the T5 made a world of difference.

Actually, the transmissions were mounted rotated in the Camaros/Firebirds, so when mounted normally in our trucks, the shifter is straight up, but the tranny mount is at an angle. You'll need to fabricate a crossmember mount to compensate for this. Not a biggie, been there, done that.

[weq92f]

.
Great looking '67 stepper you got there! Cool color combo. The T5 will make it even better!

-klb

[Abomb]

Originally Posted by 57Suburb

Actually, the transmissions were mounted rotated in the Camaros/Firebirds, so when mounted normally in our trucks, the shifter is straight up, but the tranny mount is at an angle. You'll need to fabricate a crossmember mount to compensate for this. Not a biggie, been there, done that.

There’s been a lot of folks run without the added 3rd crossmember...while the T5 is definitely longer (3”s), it is quite a bit lighter than the Saginaw 3 speed...With the bell housing supports, I’m not sure the tail shaft crossmember is even necessary...no one has reported an issue that I have read. Obviously I will make sure both motor and bellhousing mounts are in good shape first though...

[Mike C]

I would run the rear crossmember. Having the extension housing on my Allison break recently because of the unsupported weight on back of the trans from the t-case being shaken around from a u-join where just ONE of the bearing caps failed.

Not the massive weight on the T5 like the t-case, but the aluminum housing was designed to be supported at the rear and the actually usage of the truck in the modern era (higher rpm engines, more power, OD speeding up the driveshaft, etc.) changes the dynamics from the 3 speed environment as well.

YMMV, but the Allison experience was painful in time, body aches, and wallet.

[jocko]

It's really an either/or situation. All you really need is either the trans bell housing mounts or the or the rear crossmember. GM built them with one or the other, but not both on the same vehicle, so that's good enough for me. For what it's worth, I never ran one (rear crossmember) on the T5 in my 66, never had any problems.

57Suburb - thanks for the clarification - yes, you said what I was trying to get across but worded poorly. The first T5 shifter I bought was actually for an F-body, and it had the counter-twist in it to compensate for F-body trans mounting, which, of course - pokes up all crooked in a non-twisted install (like on my S10 T5). That was awesome not.

[typerr]

I did the T-5 swap in my 70 about 3-4 months ago. My truck has a 350 with a 3.73 rear that used to be a 3-speed and the difference is huge! I have a bench seat so I took the extra time to rebuild my T-5 and install an S-10 tailhousing to move the shifter forward. I also converted to a hydraulic clutch using the Captainfab kit although it's certainly not required. I've been running without a rear crossmember without any issues. Of all the mods I've made to my truck this has made the biggest difference in driving comfort. She's now a highway cruiser!

[Abomb]

Well, the old stuff is out, the carrier bearing fell apart, so that was good timing... one issue that has arisen is that the pressure plate in the clutch kit won’t fit my flywheel, which is drilled for the 11 inch set up, but the pressure plate that was in the truck is in good shape, so I’ll have the flywheel surfaced and clean up and reuse the pressure plate. The transmission input plate diameter and bell housing match, so no spacer needed there...so, all in all, I’ll end up with a newly surfaced flywheel, new throw out bearing, new 10.5” disc, and used but cleaned up pressure plate...and new carrier bearing. The only remaining issue to address is the shortening of the drive shaft, I’ll get to that after the new transmission is in place....

[337]

Good luck. I subscribed. Please don't leave out any details or gotcha issues.

[vitamin_c95]

Oh man this would be a fun mod. Commented just to subscribe

[Abomb]

Okay, for the record, ordering the clutch kit for the original application would work fine, IF your truck is a 6 cylinder WITHOUT THE HD CLUTCH option. Apparently all V8 trucks came with the HD 11” clutch...I took the flywheel to be machined today, the machinist said to run it as is, I cleaned it up with one of those harbor freight paint stripping disks, he said his stone wouldn’t have done any better, and it was not grooved or warped, so he didn’t want to steal my money...that’s the kind of machinist to know I guess...anyway, as soon as I can get the replacement throw out bearing, I’ll start to put things back together...3 parts stores in 3 towns, and no one had one in stock...if I run into any issues, I will document them here, and put up pictures and a glowing review of my work, of course...

[jocko]

Recommend read the post linked below before mixing and matching pressure plates and release bearings. There are long and short rel bearings and thicker and thinner pressure plates - perhaps something to consider on this swap. I compared my Astro van pressure plate and rel bearing combo to the original and the overall stacked height was indeed the same - BUT if I had mixed the new pressure plate with the old rel bearing or vice versa, it would have been a different issue, with some potential issues incurred by mixing things up. Easiest way to check is to place your original pressure plate face down on the garage floor - then rest the original rel bearing on the pressure plate fingers as if it were just beginning to engage. Place a level across the top of it all and measure the distance from the level to the floor. Then make the same measurement with the rel bearing and pressure plate you plan to install. If they are about the same, no worries. If there is a notable difference, and you plan to use your existing pressure plate - and your old release bearing is shot - then this check may help guide your new release bearing purchase - you'd want to buy one that gives you the same ultimate overall measurement that you started with as outlined above. Might not be a big issue regardless of how you combo them, but it could be and it's worth checking - I didn't want to find out on the test drive. Anyway - just some food for thought.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=5889893

[jocko]

A couple more tips that can make life a little easier during the install:

- Long ½” bolts in the upper bell housing mounting holes can help guide the trans during installation (heads chopped off and a screwdriver slot ground in or ends just squared off – either way just so you can get the trans over them). It helps to do this if you are working solo.

- Also, because of the webbing in the T5 case near the upper bolt holes, it makes life easier to use allen head bolts as pictured below.

Note: the allen head bolt in the lower hole in the first pic was just temporary (to hold the space in place until I got the upper trans mount holes onto the 1/2 guide bolts).

[Abomb]

Originally Posted by jocko

Recommend read the post linked below before mixing and matching pressure plates and release bearings. There are long and short rel bearings and thicker and thinner pressure plates - perhaps something to consider on this swap. I compared my Astro van pressure plate and rel bearing combo to the original and the overall stacked height was indeed the same - BUT if I had mixed the new pressure plate with the old rel bearing or vice versa, it would have been a different issue, with some potential issues incurred by mixing things up. Easiest way to check is to place your original pressure plate face down on the garage floor - then rest the original rel bearing on the pressure plate fingers as if it were just beginning to engage. Place a level across the top of it all and measure the distance from the level to the floor. Then make the same measurement with the rel bearing and pressure plate you plan to install. If they are about the same, no worries. If there is a notable difference, and you plan to use your existing pressure plate - and your old release bearing is shot - then this check may help guide your new release bearing purchase - you'd want to buy one that gives you the same ultimate overall measurement that you started with as outlined above. Might not be a big issue regardless of how you combo them, but it could be and it's worth checking - I didn't want to find out on the test drive. Anyway - just some food for thought.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=5889893

I’m actually going to use the existing pressure plate, and an identical release bearing to what came out...really, the only thing changing is the clutch disc and pilot bearing. The release bearing that came with the new clutch kit is only about half the height of what was in there...I suppose a guy could make it work, but it would put the clutch arm at an extreme angle, and max out the adjustment range. I already bought the Allen head bolts, but thanks, definitely couldn’t use hex head in the top...

[jocko]

yep, that should work out just fine - good luck! It's worth all the effort.

[Abomb]

This has been one adventure after another...I could NOT get the transmission to slide home at all...clutch and pilot bushing were perfectly aligned, but no joy. It turns out that the floor pan to firewall seam was interfering with the top of the tranny...which was just enough to keep me from getting the right angle, and the needed wiggle room, a little massaging with the trusty BFH tool, and it’s in..might be a v8 thing, nobody else has mentioned this in a T5 thread. Next, even though the pressure plate hadn’t changed, and I got an identical replacement throw out bearing, I had no clutch...turns out I just needed to adjust the pushrod, a bunch...but I was baffled for awhile...no geometry had changed at all, WTF ???

Anyway, it’s in, I need to shorten the front driveshaft exactly 3 inches, get a speedometer cable, replace all the u joints, and while it’s up in the air, change the oil, and rear end lube, and we should be good to go...fingers crossed...

[geezer#99]

You shouldn’t have needed to adjust the push rod.
Maybe the clutch fork popped off the pivot ball.

[Abomb]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

You shouldn’t have needed to adjust the push rod.
Maybe the clutch fork popped off the pivot ball.

I think you’re on to something there, but backwards kind of....it’s probably that the clutch fork was popped on all the way this time....it didn’t seem seated all the way on the ball when I took it apart...I had to lengthen the arm quite a bit to get more throw on the arm...

[geezer#99]

What style of clip on the fork?

I had one the metal clip was broke.

[Abomb]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

What style of clip on the fork?

I had one the metal clip was broke.

It had the round metal spring clip...and you sort of jogged my memory there, it didn’t seem right when I took it apart, kind of loose, and it practically fell out... but putting it all back together, I got the very audible pop as I put pressure on it while running the ball in...

[geezer#99]

If ever need parts these guys have them.
Clips, springs, forks etc.

https://www.4speedconversions.com/

If it was mine, I’d pop the link rod off and check for proper movement of the fork.
Back, forth, up, down and twist.
Better now than later.

[Abomb]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

If ever need parts these guys have them.
Clips, springs, forks etc.

https://www.4speedconversions.com/

If it was mine, I’d pop the link rod off and check for proper movement of the fork.
Back, forth, up, down and twist.
Better now than later.

I did when I put it back together, along with a dab of grease on the pivot ball...

[Abomb]

Well, that was fun...I took it for a short drive tonight, and as aggravating as it was, it was all worth it...either it is not as straight forward as everyone one the internet says, or I’m a crappy mechanic...lol

Speedometer is 5 mph slow, any experts in here? I’m thinking one tooth smaller on the driven gear... Google, here I come I guess...

I’ll snap some pictures tomorrow, I did end up modifying the camaro shifter, by cutting it off and adding a piece of the old hurst stick...I think it’s pretty cool...