Old 3-Speed to Muncie 4-speed conversion questions

[88Stanger]

Ok, so i have searched for help on converting from the old 3-speed manual to a newer Muncie 4-speed in reference to the clutch linkage and what is needed to make the conversion.
I have a completely rebuilt Muncie 4-speed, 11" clutch bell housing and new clutch kit and now i am working on the frame. So with that said, i know that i need to look at how the linkage will be run and well i am a bit lost, my brain may be a bit off. So i plan to use the bell housing ball mount for the bell crank (Z-Bar) and was wondering if someone on here has done this and what they needed to do to accomplish this. Does anyone have advice, pics or .... to help. Thanks in advance for any help.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

Check the diameter of the front brg. retainers. If they are the same they should interchange without any mods.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret

Check the diameter of the front brg. retainers. If they are the same they should interchange without any mods.

The issue I am having is whomever had the truck over its life did some kind of custom bracket for the Z Bar mount on the frame which went to a different place, actually onto the block if i am not mistaken. So if i am not wrong, i need to find a new place for the Z Bar mount on the frame, which again if i am not wrong, should be perpendicular to where the bell housing clutch ball ends up at after i dry fit the motor and 4 speed. I will then need to find a Z bar that works width wise, then work on the rods from the pedal to the clutch lever from the z bar.
I was just wondering if someone has done this and what they experienced, what parts they used and such. I know others have done just this, just looking for advice.

[Captainfab]

If you keep the engine in the original factory location, the ballstud goes in the front location on the black. Then you can use all factory clutch linkage. The only issue with that is you are limited to about 3 choices for headers.

[88Stanger]

Everyone, thanks so much for all the replies. In my own ignorance, i decided to stop and just take a breath, read carefully what has been said here and other places and look at a hydraulic throwout bearing setup. After a short time i began to realize that it is very simple to convert to hydraulic system, Captainfab sells a fantastic kit (which I am buying) and Speedway sells the throwout bearing and lines needed. Yes it will cost around $400.00 to do the full conversion, but the simplicity is outweighing the costs. So i believe i have fixed my issue here.

[Indian113]

Good Plan!

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Indian113

Good Plan!

LOL
Thanks. Ya it is just to dang simple really. I just never have done this before, but after watching several videos, i think i will be ok. I like to think i am somewhat mechanical and can figure this out. LOL
Again, thanks to everyone for the help and a huge shout out to CaptainFab for the Booster & Clutch slave cylinder reservoir kit, just order it.

[88Stanger]

Speedway Hydraulic Throwout Bearing and bleeder line and spare line purchased.