Dash issue

[REDROCKER652002]

OK, so now I am moving on the lighting, yea I know, I bounce around a lot. But since we got the brakes done, the fuel sender issue fixed, now I am bored. LOL.

So, my son's 69 is having issues with the dash lights and the turn signals. None work. LOL. I pulled the dash and put a tester on the signal wires at the plugin for the dash. I got power to all three, left, right and dash lights. Although the dash lights reading seemed weak, but it was there. So, I put the ohm meter to the circuit board, was able to get readings there as well. I followed the printing to all the lights and it seemed to work. I can hear the flasher going and all the outside lights work. So, next was to take out the bulbs and ohm check them. They all seemed to work as well. Only thing left are the black housings the lights sit in. I tried to test those, but I don't know if I was doing it right. Either way, anything else I should be checking? One thing I noticed was I am missing one of the dash light little black housings, but would that make a difference? If one is out, does that throw the whole system out?

I know, all stupid questions, but I figure I would ask and see. I am thinking of getting all new bulb holders and see if that is the problem. Anybody looking to get rid of any? Just asking.

Thanks to all who will give me any info. If the asking for the housings was wrong, I apologize, but I am hopeful somebody had some good ones laying around.

Thanks again.

RR

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by REDROCKER652002

OK, so now I am moving on the lighting, yea I know, I bounce around a lot. But since we got the brakes done, the fuel sender issue fixed, now I am bored. LOL.

So, my son's 69 is having issues with the dash lights and the turn signals. None work. LOL. I pulled the dash and put a tester on the signal wires at the plugin for the dash. I got power to all three, left, right and dash lights. Although the dash lights reading seemed weak, but it was there. So, I put the ohm meter to the circuit board, was able to get readings there as well. I followed the printing to all the lights and it seemed to work. I can hear the flasher going and all the outside lights work. So, next was to take out the bulbs and ohm check them. They all seemed to work as well. Only thing left are the black housings the lights sit in. I tried to test those, but I don't know if I was doing it right. Either way, anything else I should be checking? One thing I noticed was I am missing one of the dash light little black housings, but would that make a difference? If one is out, does that throw the whole system out?

I know, all stupid questions, but I figure I would ask and see. I am thinking of getting all new bulb holders and see if that is the problem. Anybody looking to get rid of any? Just asking.

Thanks to all who will give me any info. If the asking for the housings was wrong, I apologize, but I am hopeful somebody had some good ones laying around.

Thanks again.

RR

I'm betting you have a ground issue. Check to see if this ground wire is connected.... Remove the clip and re-connect it.

If you want to pay postage I will give you a good set of the bulb holders. It would run about 3 bucks. Let me know.

LockDoc

[REDROCKER652002]

I would love to do that if that is OK with all. My email is redrocker652002@yahoo.com or I can pm you my info. Thanks. I really do appreciate it.

I have a ground wire in the harness, but I don't think I have a ground on the clip that you are showing. I will check that and see. Either way, if you are ok with parting with the holders I am in your debt. My son thanks you.

[REDROCKER652002]

OK. That ground wire you pointed out I think is the one I have screwed into the bottom of the dash. So, I took it and moved it to the clip as pictured. Sanded the connections and the dash to make sure I was getting a good connection. No luck. I turned the blinkers on, and was able to get my tester to the circuit board right near the black bulb holder. I am getting at least 10 amps on the blink there on both sides.

[Smitty]

How about turn signal switch? Turn signals and brake lights go through this switch. And there is a rheostat as part of the headlight switch that changes the brightness of the dash lights. Just an idea you seem to have checked everything else.

[REDROCKER652002]

Originally Posted by Smitty

How about turn signal switch? Turn signals and brake lights go through this switch. And there is a rheostat as part of the headlight switch that changes the brightness of the dash lights. Just an idea you seem to have checked everything else.

Brand new switch, so I don't think so. But heck, I will check it. Thanks for the input.

RR

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by REDROCKER652002

I would love to do that if that is OK with all. My email is redrocker652002@yahoo.com or I can pm you my info. Thanks. I really do appreciate it.

I have a ground wire in the harness, but I don't think I have a ground on the clip that you are showing. I will check that and see. Either way, if you are ok with parting with the holders I am in your debt. My son thanks you.

PM me your info.

LockDoc

[REDROCKER652002]

Message sent. Thank you

[Andy4639]

Check the printed circuit and see if it's making contact to the plug in when pluged up. I had a old one that was curved up and wouldn't make connection. If you can put jumper's on the plug to the circuit board and see what happens. 12 volts and the ground.

[Rick Bollinger]

There are 2 screws that hold the printed circuit board to the panel. They are ground screws that take the ground "wire" in the circuit and grounds it to the dash and the ground side of the light socket. if those screws are dirty or loose they will not make a good contact and cause all kinds of issues with the dash lights and turn signals on the dash. So be sure to check these as well.

[TBONE1964]

Originally Posted by Rick Bollinger

There are 2 screws that hold the printed circuit board to the panel. They are ground screws that take the ground "wire" in the circuit and grounds it to the dash and the ground side of the light socket. if those screws are dirty or loose they will not make a good contact and cause all kinds of issues with the dash lights and turn signals on the dash. So be sure to check these as well.

Number one issue for this problem.

[DennisP]

Originally Posted by REDROCKER652002

Brand new switch, so I don't think so. But heck, I will check it. Thanks for the input.

RR

You may have resolved your issues by now but, just so you know, A brand new light switch does not always mean it's a good one.
I just recently replaced my light switch because the dimmer wasn't working. Exactly one week later, no lights. My brand new counterpart light switch was a dud! Replaced it again, so far so good.

[custom10nut]

I’ll just reenforce every one that responded, and say : Grounds make the world go round, on these trucks (and for Square bodies too).
Just when you think you halve enough grounds hooked up, add four more.
Andy’s right on the Printed Circuit Board, I ran two grounds from it to the sheet metal and my dash lighting issue is fixed.

[REDROCKER652002]

Thanks to all who replied. If I have a ground issue would I still be getting power to the plug that plugs into the circuit board on the dash? Not try to be a wise guy, but the blinker and dash light wires are getting power to the plug. Now, the screws to the circuit board I never thought of. Those are all the original screws with a new board. I will check that too.

Thanks to LocDoc, I got the holders. My hope is with all the suggestions and the parts I can figure this thing out. More to be posted later. RR

[Rick Bollinger]

Try the 2 screws. They transfer the ground from the back gauge pan directly to the circuit connected to the light sockets. You can show a ground at the back of the gauge cluster even at the screws themselves but it might not be transferring to the printed circuit. It only takes a second to do and you do not have to disassemble anything. Just use a 1/4 " drive socket and a 1/4" socket. Tighten and loosen them a couple of times I put a small mirror on the seat so I could see the dash while I was under it. Be careful not to twist the circuit itself.

[REDROCKER652002]

OK, we are on lockdown and I am bored to death, so I went out to fool around with the dash. What I found was as follows:

I tested all the wires into the connector that goes to the back of the dash. For some reason the pink Ignition wire is cold. Not sure why, cause I could swear it was good to go before. So, I go to the fuse block. Ignition fuse, directional fuse and any others that I think may have something to do with it are working. When I test each individual wire on the connector, they seem to be working. In other words, I put a gauge on the turn signal wires and ground and I get current to the connector.

I use a series of alligator clips to connect the hot, ground and right turn signal from the connector to the back of the dash. The right turn signal works. So, I try the left one, and I blow a fuse. I think it was because I did not keep the right one connected.

So, because the pink ignition wire on the connector is cold, I am guessing that no power to the circuit board is being produced.

I am sure I am confusing as heck here, but if anybody has any further input would be great. Is it the ignition switch? The headlight switch? Anything else I should be looking at? This is really starting to make me angry though, I put all new wiring on this so I would not have these problems.

RR

[LockDoc]

-
The "Cluster Feed" fuse would be the one for that. Should be a 12ga pink wire from the ignition switch to the fuse and a 20ga pink wire from the fuse to the cluster connector. Check both sides of the Cluster fuse. There may be some rust on the fuse holder clips so use a small wire brush on the fuse holder clips before you use the tester on it. Be sure and have the key on to test it.

LockDoc

[REDROCKER652002]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

-
The "Cluster Feed" fuse would be the one for that. Should be a 12ga pink wire from the ignition switch to the fuse and a 20ga pink wire from the fuse to the cluster connector. Check both sides of the Cluster fuse. There may be some rust on the fuse holder clips so use a small wire brush on the fuse holder clips before you use the tester on it. Be sure and have the key on to test it.

LockDoc

This is a brand new setup from AAW, so no rust should be in there. I will check the fuse block again, but I thought I hit them all. Could it be a switch issue? I have a new ignition switch that I was thinking of trying. But I was thinking fuse too, because I swear that wire had power the last time I checked it

Stupid question, the bigger the number the smaller the wire, right? LOL.
I never had to think about this before. There is a thicker pink wire that plugs into the back of the switch, that has 12 volts. That one I could get to.

Thanks for the input, tomorrow is another day RR

Edited; Here is a link the what I have.

https://smhttp-ssl-87263.nexcesscdn....t_Design_1.pdf

[michael bustamante]

double check that thinner pink wire that goes to the cluster harness from the fusebox. both ends. and maybe try running a separate ground strap from the tin to the dash

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by REDROCKER652002

This is a brand new setup from AAW, so no rust should be in there. I will check the fuse block again, but I thought I hit them all. Could it be a switch issue? I have a new ignition switch that I was thinking of trying. But I was thinking fuse too, because I swear that wire had power the last time I checked it

Stupid question, the bigger the number the smaller the wire, right? LOL.
I never had to think about this before. There is a thicker pink wire that plugs into the back of the switch, that has 12 volts. That one I could get to.

Thanks for the input, tomorrow is another day RR

Edited; Here is a link the what I have.

https://smhttp-ssl-87263.nexcesscdn....t_Design_1.pdf

Yes, bigger the number smaller the wire.

I forgot you had the new wire loom.

LockDoc

[REDROCKER652002]

OK, update. I get up after wracking this in my head all night. Gotta be a fuse, right? OK. So, I get up grab my coffee and tester in hand off I go. Open up the hood, connect the battery and start checking. All the darn fuses are doing what they should be doing in my mind. Power to both sides of the fuse. OK, well, I check the flasher to make sure it is in right, yep. All good. I unplugged the turn signal wire that connects to the dash harness last night, but did not this morning. Getting ready to pull the damn dash out for about the 100th time. What the heck, let's give it a shot. No way!!!!!! The damn lights are working now. Both left and right blinker lights on the dash are working. The lights outside are doing what they do. Are you freaking kidding me? I don't have any ideal why this is doing what it is doing, but I aint complaining.

So, why not tackle another issue that has been giving me problems. The dome light. I cannot get the new wire to feed thru the cab so I can get it run to the fuse box. OK. Hey now, clarity hits. My son put three point seat belts in. Maybe the bolt for the shoulder harness is stopping the wires from feeding. You guessed it, I take that bolt out, feed it thru and be damned if that don't work as well. spent part of the day running that and getting some wires taped and out of the way.

Now, is it just the lord our god smiling on an old man who was about ready to take a flamethrower to this old truck? Or am I just that good? LOL. I am guessing the first. But, either way, I can check that off the list of stuff that was driving me nuts.

Now? I am going to VEGAS!!!!!!!! LOL.

Thanks to all who chimed in, I appreciate the info and help

Now, it's time for a big ole BEER!!!!!!!!!!!

RR

[Wootdog]

Remember with these old trucks you get a lot farther along by talking to them and rubbing them every once in a while. they like attention. This is from one old guy to another.
Kerry

[REDROCKER652002]

And the hits just keep coming. Now, everything in the dash is working. Signals, dash lights, all good, right? UMMMMM NOOOOO!!!!!!

My son has told me that the fuel gage is now going all the way past full again. Gosh Darn it. LOL. I am going to run a separate ground for the gauge and see what happens, but why is it that just when I get it all figured out, something else get jacked. LOL

OK, we now return you to your regularly scheduled craziness

[REDROCKER652002]

OK. So I decide to have a beer or three and deal with the issue late. That only works thru beer two. I go out and start fooling around. Pink wire to the dash still has no power, but signals and dash lights are working. So, I follow the wires to the next connection. Check that, both pink wires are cold OK, so at this point I start looking once again at the fuses. All seem to be ok. I try and follow the smaller pink wires to where they go, but I have everything neatly taped and tied up, so I don't want to mess that up. Oh well, beer is almost done and it is getting time to hang it up anyway. So, I just put the tester on the pink wire at the connection to the dash. No kidding, it has power now?????? WTF??????? I plug it all in, signals work, dash lights appear to be working and now the fuel gauge is reading as it is supposed to. I'll be damned if I have no idea why this is all happening, but I also be damned if I am going to mess with it. I put the dash back in, screw it down and say to myself, maybe I am just that good. LOL.

Anyway, I hope you all have gotten a kick out of my posts, cause I have enjoyed posting them. Now, it is off for my third beer and BBQ Tri tip on the menu.

Be safe all, and enjoy the ride. RR

[Molino]

I had dash and turn signal issues on my truck when I first bought it also. I had replaced the turn signal switch due to a broken hazard switch. The dash cluster had been gone over too because I repainted the needles on the gauges and once I was in there all the contacts were cleaned and conditioned. Problems with turn signals still persisted until I cleaned the attachment points for the ground strap at the rear of the box between the box an frame. The ground strap was replaced too. At that time I bought a complete ground strap kit and cleaned the attachment points for all the ground straps. Problem solved and all the lights on my truck are really bright now. Before the grounds were replaced there were ongoing intermittent glitches that went away as soon as the chassis grounds were addressed.

Russ