Torque specs for engine and transmission?

[msg]

Ive got a 66 c10 but the engine Im putting in is a 350 vortec L31 and I have a 700r4 transmission, but the 62, 66 shop manuals and assembly manuals I have wont cover it since they didnt have these in 66. Since the upgrade ventures into the later models I thought I would check here and see what resources you all recommend to get torque specs for what Im replacing and installing.

These are the torque specs I was hunting.


flexplate to torque converter
flexplate to crankshaft
Bell housing to motor
engine mount to motor
engine mount to brace
brace to frame

[truckster]

This page might help:

https://www.jegs.com/tech-articles/s...ine-specs.html

[mikeshome]

Personaly have never torqued any of those.Just make sure they are tight but dont go crazy.

[truckster]

The only one I put a torque wrench on is flexplate to crankshaft. The others I torque with a liberal application of goodentite.

[CastIron]

Originally Posted by truckster

The only one I put a torque wrench on is flexplate to crankshaft. The others I torque with a liberal application of goodentite.

As a professional auto technician, I would mostly agree with this. I generally torque bolts that aren't accessible after assembly (like internal engine bolts, flexplate etc), anything that is sealing a fluid (water pumps, valve covers, etc) and anything that can cause damage/injury if it comes loose while driving (brake parts, wheels, U-joints). Motor mounts, bellhousing, accessory brackets, things like that are not as important to torque to specs. I do tend to torque some things most other technicians don't bother with, but I have zero comebacks related to bolts/nuts being too loose or too tight. I see a lot of issues from other techs not torquing things properly.

Don't forget to use a little loctite on the flexplate bolts.

[truckster]

Originally Posted by CastIron

As a professional auto technician, I would mostly agree with this. I generally torque bolts that aren't accessible after assembly (like internal engine bolts, flexplate etc), anything that is sealing a fluid (water pumps, valve covers, etc) and anything that can cause damage/injury if it comes loose while driving (brake parts, wheels, U-joints). Motor mounts, bellhousing, accessory brackets, things like that are not as important to torque to specs. I do tend to torque some things most other technicians don't bother with, but I have zero comebacks related to bolts/nuts being too loose or too tight. I see a lot of issues from other techs not torquing things properly.

Don't forget to use a little loctite on the flexplate bolts.

I totally agree with your list. I was referring to the item's on the OP's list.

[msg]

I really appreciate the feedback on this since Im a first timer and didn't want to make a mistake especially those that could be disastrous. If tight but not overly tight is the way then thats what I'll do.

On the flexplate to crankshaft then whats the spec I should use you think?

And on the loctite I bought the blue medium tube. I had planned to use it and had gotten a negative reaction from others saying how ill regret it whenever I need to ever work the bolts that have it on them. I was going to use a small bit just to feel better but knowing it could make for a big pain if I need to back the bolts out.

[truckster]

Medium thread locker and 60 lb-ft on the flexplate to crankshaft - it's in the table I linked to earlier. I've never put thread locker on torque converter bolts. Just get them tight. If you do use thread locker on those bolts, make sure you use the blue. If you use red you might never get them out, just because of how hard it is to get good torque on them.

[1971 GMC SHORTY]

I Was A GM Master Technician for 30 years and I always torque everything that mattered you can tell the difference with comebacks.
I. Always Hard Great CSI Scores Even Z06 Vette That I Had to Repo The 3 RD Piston Ring did Like 20 Of those Oil Burning POS Never Had 1 Comeback

Originally Posted by CastIron

As a professional auto technician, I would mostly agree with this. I generally torque bolts that aren't accessible after assembly (like internal engine bolts, flexplate etc), anything that is sealing a fluid (water pumps, valve covers, etc) and anything that can cause damage/injury if it comes loose while driving (brake parts, wheels, U-joints). Motor mounts, bellhousing, accessory brackets, things like that are not as important to torque to specs. I do tend to torque some things most other technicians don't bother with, but I have zero comebacks related to bolts/nuts being too loose or too tight. I see a lot of issues from other techs not torquing things properly.

Don't forget to use a little loctite on the flexplate bolts.