82 Drip rail question

[Ehodg66]

My drivers side drip rail is a bit loose, not redirecting the water and I see 2 issues:

1. There is a "gasket" like material between the molding retainer and the body that is worn.
2. The screw holes in the body seem a little wallowed out and aren't tightening down.

What gasket or caulk like material can I use between the molding retainer and the body. Also, I guess I'll have to go up to the next screw size, any suggestions on that or other recommendations?

I've attached a pic from LMC for reference

thank you in advance
E

[Mattchu60]

I have the same question - I'm putting my drip rails back in in a few weeks and noticed no one reproduces the gaskets. My initial thought is to use seam sealer between the drip rail and body.

[old Rusty C10]

ive used a thin layer of silicone..

[TKCR]

I would look at your local Hardware Store, Lowe’s Home Depot. I’m sure you can find some sort of gasket that can be used as a replacement.

[Pontiac1976]

As old Rusty C10 ( Bob )

ive used a thin layer of silicone..

That will work ok.

3M two way tape (double sided tape) like the Emblem tape is what was on there it's like a rubber foam.
Can be found body shop supply or big-box store, auto part stores. ( you may have to cut to size) If you get big roll.

Two way or double sided tape ( Emblem's )
#(1) Amazon.
#(2) 3M on line.
#(3) E-bay.
#(4) Body shop supply shop.
#(5) big-box store, have small rolls
#(6) auto part stores, have small rolls

If your saying holes are big or like pulled up use hammer lightly gentle tape them down or use a flat punch cover the hole hammer lightly gentle flattens out a little.
If the paint pretty new take a bigger chisel mask side 3 or 4 strips of tape put in tape side down hole hold the chisel at the same angle body slop flat tap the unmask side start to go flush.( remember lightly many taps so you do not go to far.) If the hole down the screw to lose you can try JB-weld drill 1or 2 mm smaller screw see if that works. I hope this helps.

[mongocanfly]

I used black rtv on mine...no issues

[liftlawssuck]

3M makes a product that comes in strips and you peel it off and put it on. Never really cures hard but can be moldable. Body shops use it. Don't use silicone. Well you can if you want but that stuff sucks, can't paint it and will leak over time.

[Mattchu60]

liftlawssuck - Are you talking about the 3M Caulk-Strip? That may work - i actually have part of a box from sealing my A/C Box. Its a Butyl material.

Also - I read not to use RTV/Silicone as it can rust the metal out.

[Ehodg66]

Thank you for all the suggestions.
I just picked a roll of this from Autozone. It should do the trick.
I still need to address the oversized screw holes though. If I can find a slightly bigger screw with the same size head, that would do it....I think.

[liftlawssuck]

Originally Posted by Mattchu60

liftlawssuck - Are you talking about the 3M Caulk-Strip? That may work - i actually have part of a box from sealing my A/C Box. Its a Butyl material.

Also - I read not to use RTV/Silicone as it can rust the metal out.

Yes that's the stuff. Works great. I'm an aircraft mechanic and a lot of hacks use silicone. You lean real quick that the stuff sucks compared to doing it right.

[Pontiac1976]

Yes that the stuff you got. Make sure you clean surface of dirt oils waxes really clean before in stalling it.
Now when you go to paint after RTV/Silicone or Silicone lube sprays have been on paint make painting very hard unless you get all the residue off you may have to clean it 3 or 4 times. Spray prep solvent directly over the surface to be painted.
Wipe off with a clean lint free paper towel or rag. there a few brands. This product will removes oils, road grease, dirt, car wax, and other surface contaminates. For use with touch up paints, spray paints, and ready to spray paints for use with a spray gun. (first med to light car soap wash rinse as needed unless there was Silicone on it do this second Eastwood pre cleaner prep till it clean. ready to sand and paint clean again your ready to paint. Do wear Latex Rubber Disposable Mechanic Nitrile Gloves or something close.) ...

[SSSilverado]

I redid mine and used this Ultra-Weather-Resistant EPDM Foam Strip from McMaster-Carr.
https://www.mcmaster.com/1566n118 1 roll was enough for both sides.

Some of my screw holes were wallowed out too. I used slightly larger stainless screws. I used 10-24 self tapping, but I tapped the holes first. It probably should have been a coarser thread, but it worked, just didn't over tighten. I separated the retainer from the molding during rebuild.
https://www.mcmaster.com/96024a220

[Ehodg66]

Thanks Pontiac1976

Thanks SSSilverado, I wasn't sure if the rail came apart until I saw the LMC illustration. Will certainly make it alot easier to to get those screws in and out

[Rich84]

Is there a secret to pulling them apart?

[Pontiac1976]

There very hard to get apart with out bending, all I can say, just keep working it try stretch the the egde apart just a little bit pop them apart ** take your time relax this could take you some real time. I have messed up a few trying take them apart. when
comes two them I per leave them because too many messed up you want them fit snug.and you want that.

[SSSilverado]

Originally Posted by Pontiac1976

There very hard to get apart with out bending, all I can say, just keep working it try stretch the the egde apart just a little bit pop them apart ** take your time relax this could take you some real time. I have messed up a few trying take them apart. when
comes two them I per leave them because too many messed up you want them fit snug.and you want that.

Agree, take your time, work from one end. I had mine off the cab together when I took them apart, used open end wrench. I do remember after getting one end loose on one side, then working down one side, twisting the molding slightly to help remove, don't pry straight apart, molding will bend.

[sick472]

I'd use window rope caulk for this. The double sided foam tape is also good, but can be a buggar if it sticks and you need to adjust it.

Window rope caulk is found in the window area of most all hardware stores and never sets up, but last forever. I have taken apart cars from the late 60's that had this stuff in them and it was still pliable and still keeping a seal...good stuff for sealing between two pieces of metal that are held together with fasteners. It will squish out of the joined pieces when the screws are tightened and I use a plastic scraper to lightly drag the extra away and off the body panels.

[SSSilverado]

Originally Posted by sick472

I'd use window rope caulk for this. The double sided foam tape is also good, but can be a buggar if it sticks and you need to adjust it.

Window rope caulk is found in the window area of most all hardware stores and never sets up, but last forever. I have taken apart cars from the late 60's that had this stuff in them and it was still pliable and still keeping a seal...good stuff for sealing between two pieces of metal that are held together with fasteners. It will squish out of the joined pieces when the screws are tightened and I use a plastic scraper to lightly drag the extra away and off the body panels.

I like your scripture quote, reminds me of my mother-in-law's car.
For the foam tape, the kind I used only had adhesive on one side. I applied mine adhesive side to the molding retainer, and non-adhesive side toward the cab body, so I could position retainer on cab without sticky.

[Ehodg66]

UPDATE:
I removed and reinstalled my drivers side drip rail with the 3M tape and because of the loose fit of the #8 x 3/8" screws, I went up to a #10 screw.
The only place I could find black ones was on Ebay, and I had to buy 100.
The rails only require 7 each side.

I did not have to separate the rail because I was able to use a flat head screw driver to get the screw most of the way in and the went to the 8mm wrench.

It turned out good but if I had to do it over again, I would probably use the the foam stripping SSSilverado mentioned. The strip has a few "waves" in it so it doesn't fit perfectly flush against the cab and the foam (I think) is slightly thicker than the 3M tape and would fill in the gaps a little better.
(sorry for the pic orientation)


thanks again for all the input and suggestions!

If anyone needs some #10 screws, let me know

[CSHADES]

when I did mine I used strip caulk as the gasket. I also drilled the holes bigger and used rivetnuts and stainless button head machine screws.

[Ehodg66]

Cshades,

do you have any pics of that?

thanks

[CSHADES]

there is pics of the finished drip rail on my thread "rebuilding my 1977 plow truck" page 5. All I did was drill the existing holes to the proper size and use a rivetnut with a bit of sealer, I used 3m strip caulk in between drip rail and body and I used I believe 8-32 stainless button head screws. it cured the screws getting rusty, the screws pulling out and I like the look of the button heads over the look of sheetmetal screws. the rivetnut tool kit isn't really expensive for 1/4" and smaller and use them for a lot of things to make it easier to install.

[CSHADES]

I found the pics from when I put the vent shades on that show the drip rails. the nice thing with the strip caulk is it is easy to trim and stays pliable but seals nicely.

[Ehodg66]

That looks Great!..Clean!