Voltage regulator

[Stephen717]

Ok so I finally got my stimulus money, and I'm spending it getting the bare essentials to get my truck back on the road after almost 4 years of owning it. So far I've ordered the carburetor air filter (and a new shift boot for the floor shifter), I'm getting tie rod ends, adjusting sleeves, brake shoes, parking cables, the rest of the brake line to hook up the rear brakes, master cylinder and power brake booster, proportioning valve, and if I can squeeze it in maybe a chrome valve cover and side covers for the 250. But while disassembling the rusted old front clip to move the engine to the 72 frame I noticed that the voltage regulator on the road support wasn't hooked up (I guess the entire time I've owned it) and I'm wondering if I need to hook it back up when I hook up everything when the truck is painted and sitting on the new frame. Any help as always is greatly appreciated. Thanks

[57taskforce]

It depends on what alternator your running, if you’ve got a later alternator it’s probably internally regulated thus no reason for the external regulator. I’ve got a 10si on mine and I removed the regulator plug and the soldered the wires together to bypass it.

[HO455]

Post a picture of your alternator and one of the fine folks here will be able to identify it for you.

[Stephen717]

I'll have to get that pic Monday when I'm back at work but I'll definitely post it up on here

[toolboxchev]

Me, if you want and Idea on how to spend your money more wisely would do this: Scrap the Chrome Valve cover idea, today's chrome is not the same most times will rust within a year.

You will find more problems to sort out later and need the money for that. As the old saying goes: Chrome wont get ya Home!

[LockDoc]

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I agree with ToolBox. You may need a new fuel sender or maybe even a tank, (or get yours flushed), carb rebuilt, etc., etc. I would save some back for unseen problems.

LockDoc

[Stephen717]

I should probably explain, the fuel tank, sending unit, and wiring harness are all new. I've already bought a 350cfm progressive 2 barrel for the 250, I have a 72 3/4 ton frame with new brakes all round and shocks all round, new urethane body mounts, a new rad support, 67 fenders, a 71 bed that only needs patch panels above the wheel wells and around the inner wheel wells in the bed, I've already repaired most of the rust in the cab, I have rust free doors, and I'm getting tie rod ends, adjusting sleeves, brake booster and master cylinder, parking brake cables, and brake shoes for the rear drums. I'll have plenty after that to find a hood, grill, tailgate, and maybe a new used steering box from the junkyard for it. Then all I should need is wheels and tires

[YourBuddy'sTruck]

If a previous owner upgraded your Alternator, you would see the 4 Wire Pigtail pulled out.
Also, the outside 2 Wires cut and then spliced.
That's the bypass to a modern internally regulated Alternator.