Soaking parts...who has best product

[52napco]

A few months ago I stumbled across a member that was soaking parts with a powder he had bought on Amazon that bike restoration guys were using and now I can't find the thread. anyone know of this product??

[Steeveedee]

If you're talking about getting rust off steel parts it was probably molasses. You can add water to it and it works pretty well...and it's CHEAP. You can buy it from an animal feed store, but I think for your purposes that the 25 pound sack would be a lifetime supply.

[52napco]

It's not molasses...if I recall correctly it was a powder added to water in a plastic tote..was like $13 on amazon

[landarts]

It was in my thread called 68 Second Chance, the product is Oaxlic acid. It will strip rust and leave paint and any decals. Bought on Amazon in a 2lb plastic container about $14. I added about 5 or cap fulls to the 35 gallon storage tub from Home depot. It was on page 2 of the 68 Second Chance thread I believe post #38.

[52napco]

Yep that's it..thanks for the info

[toolboxchev]

I tried Evaporust on Wiper Transmission arms. 3 different types of metal and plastic. It only attacked the rust on these parts. Worked good on this application.

Stainless, Copper or Brass, and stamped metal...It all matters. Oxallic Acid is safe to my knowledge on brass and copper. Stainless I have no clue on.

[Richard2112]

There are a variety of acids which work well depending upon what you're trying to accomplish and how much time you're willing to allow the part(s). Phosphoric acid is my preference but I've used bleach also. This transmission case soaked in vinegar for two days. Came out spotless

[Willys_MB]

Originally Posted by Richard2112

There are a variety of acids which work well depending upon what you're trying to accomplish and how much time you're willing to allow the part(s). Phosphoric acid is my preference but I've used bleach also. This transmission case soaked in vinegar for two days. Came out spotless

This! I use vinegar. After I wash the vinegar off, I soak it in baking soda mixed with water to deactivate any acid left on the metal. It’s not the fastest, but it’s $1/gallon. Evaporust may work nice and fast, but it costs 20-30x more. Just make sure you have a lid on it because it’ll stink up your garage.

[rockyrivermark]

Originally Posted by landarts

It was in my thread called 68 Second Chance, the product is Oaxlic acid. It will strip rust and leave paint and any decals. Bought on Amazon in a 2lb plastic container about $14. I added about 5 or cap fulls to the 35 gallon storage tub from Home depot. It was on page 2 of the 68 Second Chance thread I believe post #38.

Works amazing on stain boat hulls also.

[Richard2112]

Originally Posted by Willys_MB

This! I use vinegar. After I wash the vinegar off, I soak it in baking soda mixed with water to deactivate any acid left on the metal. It’s not the fastest, but it’s $1/gallon. Evaporust may work nice and fast, but it costs 20-30x more. Just make sure you have a lid on it because it’ll stink up your garage.

Baking soda bath is a good idea. I washed my trans case and it began to rust the moment it dried. I wire brushed it and gave it a coat of paint.

I think many of the rust removers (powder or otherwise) are just acids in various forms. Most will get the job done, some quicker than others. When I use a rust remover or converter, I'll look at the list of active ingredients and then look for that ingredient specifically.

I do not know what molasses might contain to get the job done but it might be the elbow grease necessary to remove the molasses that actually does the job. Never tried it.

I tend to think a citric acid might work also. Don't know. But I can say the vinegar bath works surprisingly well..

[Big Kev-O]

Check out this video, I love this guys product tests. Krud Kutter looks like the way to go is you want the job done quickly and don't mind spending a littel cash. It seems to work fast, kind of scary fast. Evapo Rust and Krud Kutter seem to work well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-MC_ZEXQbw&vl=en

[67C10Step]

Most rust removers are an acid of some sort, either organic or inorganic. I've used Evaporust and it does work great but is cost prohibitive for sure. Vinegar is just acetic acid, which is an organic acid like citric and they tend to be a bit more easier to handle. Phsophoric, muriatic (hydrochloric) and other inorganic acids can be more aggressive and tough on your skin as well. Take it from a guy that still has concentrated sulfuric scars from a small incident on the job once.

The basic bath with baking soda is a must after almost any acid treatment. Followed by a thorough dry and some sort of top coat. Flash rust will happen with almost any steel or iron part pretty quickly because of the really fresh surface exposure.