Drop spindle turning radius

[CC's 62]

I installed drop spindles on my 62 today from Early Classic. It seems as though the turning radius is not what it was with the originals. Does this look correct to everyone or am I missing something? Is the spindle supposed to contact the lower control arm where it does? I've jacked up under the LCA to put weight on it so it's not on the jack stand. It just seems like it should turn more than it does.

[Blue666(2)]

Was that groove cut by the old spindle or the new spindle? Maybe the old one was sliding in the groove to get you extra turning angle?

[PGSigns]

It should not hit when all the weight is on the truck. The way to check turning radius is to see if the wheel goes lock to lock.
Jimmy

[Slow Build]

I would think as it is you could get in a situation where the steering would lock if it gets bound up on the LCA. It doesn't look right to me.

Years ago I had a 93 C1500 xcab that I bought already lowered. It turned like crap compaired to my old 89 reg cab C1500 which had BellTech spindles. One of those spindles turned out to be defective and since that company wouldn't backup their product I switched it to BellTech and there was a huge difference in my turn radius for the better. So I've found there can be a difference between brands.

[verdell]

I installed drop spindles from Western Chassis on my '60. Never had that problem at all.

[CC's 62]

Originally Posted by Blue666(2)

Was that groove cut by the old spindle or the new spindle? Maybe the old one was sliding in the groove to get you extra turning angle?

The groove was cut by the new spindle as I was tightening the castle nut on the lower ball joint. The spindle was turned out as I was tightening.

[CC's 62]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

It should not hit when all the weight is on the truck. The way to check turning radius is to see if the wheel goes lock to lock.
Jimmy

What do you mean by going lock to lock PG?

[SkinnyG]

He means "Full-Left to Full-Right."

[CC's 62]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

He means "Full-Left to Full-Right."

Gotcha. With the tie rods installed in the spindles I get about 4 1/2 turns of the wheel before the spindle contacts the lca. With the tie rods not installed I can get about 6 1/4 turns of the wheel. From what I've read these spindles(6072L and 6072R stamped in them) are made for 60-72. They were purchased from Early Classic last September and I'm just now getting time to install. Does anyone have pics of drop spindles mounted on their 60-62 they could share?

[CC's 62]

Who's running drop spindles with torsion bars? I've just recently installed a set and they are bumping up against the lower control arm. Has anyone else had this issue? Should I go with another brand? Should I cut the stop/tab making contact off? I am not able to turn all the way left or right before they contact the control arms. I'm just at a loss of what to do. Any pics or advice would be appreciated.

[The Rocknrod]

Do you want me to merge these two threads? - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=807435

[CC's 62]

Sure...if it helps.

[SkinnyG]

If it were me, I would just hacksaw (or angle grinder with a cut-off disc) enough of the stub off that the stub contacts just before full lock.

Assuming, of course, that I actually have the correct spindles for 60-62. Mistakes happen.

[CC's 62]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

If it were me, I would just hacksaw (or angle grinder with a cut-off disc) enough of the stub off that the stub contacts just before full lock.

Assuming, of course, that I actually have the correct spindles for 60-62. Mistakes happen.

Thanks Skinny. I believe I will take an angle grinder and take off just enough to clear the lower control arm. Everything I've read and heard says the spindles are cast the same for all years. The difference is the holes bored out for the ball joints and tie rods. Wish I could find someone still running torsion bars with drop spindles. Seems most with the 60-62 swap out the front end.

[SkinnyG]

I built a Lotus Super 7 replica years ago, used Chevette spindles on fabricated a-arms, and I ran into a similar issue - I just cut the entire stub off in that situation.

I'm sure it will work.