Unconventional sway bar

[BlueJeep]

Hey all, has anyone tried fitting up unconventional sway bars in their trucks? What I mean by that is non-square body ones. Squares are hard to find in salvage yards here, but newer suburbans, tahoes, etc. are not. I'm wondering about trying to fit one from a 3500 Express van, it is 1 3/8" diameter and easy to find. Also wondering about rear bars from newer suburbans/tahoes.

Any experimentation happening? Thanks!

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Square body sway bars are pretty unique in there bends, and nothing i have looked at would be close to bolt in

For modification purposes I would suggest a bar with ends links so it is easier to fab up swap brackets.

As far as candidates. Make a drawing of your current bar, and take measurements of the widths of the arms at major bends. This way you can appx match it to a higher degree.

Depending on what your goals are a thicker bar may not be better, and effectively binds the suspension. Due to inability to twist. Especially if your looking at a 1 3/8's bar designed for a heavier vehicle around modern ideals.

Modifying your cross member for better camber gain is a much better mod for handling then a larger bar. For towing then a larger bar can help keep the truck planted.

[BlueJeep]

I'm looking at it for an 86 Suburban, so my thought is similar weight or weight distribution vehicles. End links is the only way I was looking, because of the ease of fabbing up new ones. Seems that all of the newer GM bars are that way. They also are shaped different, but that may not matter if the tires don't rub on them when turned. The bends are much tighter than the original bar and with end links it doesn't have to come in to meet the control arm from the front.

People rave about the 1 1/4" one ton bar....so....that's what influenced my thinking. Very open to gaining knowledge though!

And please do inform about modifying the crossmember for better camber gain! I want to learn more!

[focusedontheprize]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

Hey all, has anyone tried fitting up unconventional sway bars in their trucks? What I mean by that is non-square body ones. Squares are hard to find in salvage yards here, but newer suburbans, tahoes, etc. are not. I'm wondering about trying to fit one from a 3500 Express van, it is 1 3/8" diameter and easy to find. Also wondering about rear bars from newer suburbans/tahoes.

Any experimentation happening? Thanks!

I ran into the same challenge with my ‘88 V30. I called Hellwig and gave them rough dimensions of the width I needed and mounting points. They were a HUGE help and recommended a F350 bar that I put in mind (check out my build thread).

[Warrens69GMC]

Just get a new one?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Belltech-Re...sAAOSwfVpYrd5V

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

I'm looking at it for an 86 Suburban, so my thought is similar weight or weight distribution vehicles. End links is the only way I was looking, because of the ease of fabbing up new ones. Seems that all of the newer GM bars are that way. They also are shaped different, but that may not matter if the tires don't rub on them when turned. The bends are much tighter than the original bar and with end links it doesn't have to come in to meet the control arm from the front.

People rave about the 1 1/4" one ton bar....so....that's what influenced my thinking. Very open to gaining knowledge though!

And please do inform about modifying the crossmember for better camber gain! I want to learn more!

Taller upper BJ's bolt right on & do the same thing.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Warrens69GMC

Just get a new one?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Belltech-Re...sAAOSwfVpYrd5V

While I usually would just buy new/upgraded units, I'm betting wrecking yards are going to be a cheaper alternative if one has a better idea of what can work.

[S10Fan]

Maybe take your current one to a self service yard and look around. I've done that with other parts, but, have them mark your part so you don't end up buying it again when you leave.

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by s10fan

maybe take your current one to a self service yard and look around. I've done that with other parts, but, have them mark your part so you don't end up buying it again when you leave. :lol:

Hahaha

[SCOTI]

Seems I've read of people using F150 and Dodge units but don't have any specific data or link to provide to know what or how things were done/used.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

And please do inform about modifying the crossmember for better camber gain! I want to learn more!

I am going off memory here, but moving the lower a-arm forward 3/4 to 1 compared to the upper helps with camber gain. Also helps center up the wheel better. I have seen people re-drill mounting hole on the cross shaft for good results. But when I did it I had to cut, and weld.

Some say lowering the upper a-arm 1/2 inch helps alot too. I have done it, but never as a stand alone mod to determine the true impact. I have a dial guage I can use to determine if I need more or less. I will have my free project here hopefully in a few months, and the crossmember will be the first mod. Most of my plans are pretty out there, but I intend to taylor it to rally cross style racing. Even if the only person I race is myself.

Obviously the best shocks you can afford. Bilstiens are my fav, but KYB's are always a budget choice. I have used cheaper shocks in a dual shock arrangement, but that was for durability as a main course of action.

Depending on how low your Suburban is you may have to tweak shock lengths, and angles. The shock for ideal purposes should be at mid travel, and something less then a 15* lay back. Some say vertical is better to the axle, but laid back towards the wheel. All agree too much angle greatly reduces shock effectiveness.

Most importantly there is a long thread on how to make it handle. Which offer more opinions on which to base your needs/wants.

[SCOTI]

Moving the lower a-arm forward helps w/Caster gain. It also helps keep the front wheel better centered w/aggressive drops. If you do the 'Caster Mod' & depending on how you do it, you might need to tweak the shock mounting since it possibly shifts the lower mount forward w/the mod. It's an easy fix but should be considered.

Lowering the upper a-arm mounting points can help the Camber curve. It's easier to swap in taller upper BJ's though if you're rebuilding the front end.

[Axle]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Seems I've read of people using F150 and Dodge units but don't have any specific data or link to provide to know what or how things were done/used.

I'm guessing they used an endlink style bar (like you find on GM passenger cars), and used conventional frame mounts (like stock with some bracket) and then picked an endlink approx. the correct length (so the bar end mounting hole is approx. parrallel to the ground with weight on the vehicle. This''ll be the hardest hunt unless you find a full list with dimensions). If I remember right, there is a hole in the truck lower control arms to accomodate an end link (once again, just like the passenger cars). Measure the distance between those holes (and see how much space you have to make a hole inboard & outboard from that that still provides room for the bushing), and measure how far back the bar needs to be where it mounts to the frame, and then go start measuring junk yard sway bars. [some randomn front suspension w/endlink pic]


Alex.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Axle

I'm guessing they used an endlink style bar (like you find on GM passenger cars), and used conventional frame mounts (again, like the passenger cars) and then picked an endlink approx. the correct length (so the bar end mounting hole is approx. parrallel to the ground with weight on the vehicle. If I remember right, there is a hole in the truck lower control arms to accomodate an end link (once again, just like the passenger cars). Measure the distance between those holes (and see how much space you have to make a hole inboard & outboard from that that still provides room for the bushing), and measure how far back the bar needs to be where it mounts to the frame, and then go start measuring junk yard sway bars.


Alex.

Yep.

There are the holes for the OE truck style mounting link (2qty 3/8"). I've seen those used or a bracket fabricated off the vertical portion of the arm as well depending on what end links are chosen.

[Axle]

Just poking around looking for more info;
Hmmm, addco's approach to it; https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...olet/model/c10

Thing that catch my attention; looks like L-brackets to bolt to the lower control arm for a link mount. Makes me wonder if thats to set a bar further forward to clear the power steering box by mounting the frame mounts direct like a passenger car, without the usual truck spacer bracket. 46" eye to eye for this particular bar.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Axle

Just poking around looking for more info;
Hmmm, addco's approach to it; https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...olet/model/c10

Thing that catch my attention; looks like L-brackets to bolt to the lower control arm for a link mount. Makes me wonder if thats to set a bar further forward to clear the power steering box by mounting the frame mounts direct like a passenger car, without the usual truck spacer bracket. 46" eye to eye for this particular bar.

That bracket attached vertically is what I was referring to when I mentioned "depending on what end links are chosen" & the bar used. I did one that anchored horizontally (using one of the OE mounting holes) & a new vertical hole. It allowed putting the tab exactly where it was needed to be plumb @ ride height.

I gusseted the ones I made. I feel the ones in the pic are not adequate.