47-55.1 Raising Cab and Cab Mounts

[Driver_WT]

I have 1953 Chevy truck on an S10 frame, continuing to make progress to get her on the road this summer. I have raised the cab about two inches to make the hood fit correctly (core support is as low as it can go). I have two hockey pucks in as higher cab mounts just for the trial fitment. Is it acceptable to have 2 to 2.5 inches of rubber in the cab mounts or should I raise the height of the steel cab mount brackets on the frame? Also, what are some alternatives for the cab mount rubber if I need a higher height than what the 1/2" thick rubber cab mount will give me. I hear that using hockey pucks as the rubber portion of the cab mount is not acceptable and may be illegal in Canada.

Thanks for the help.

Wade

[joedoh]

how tall are your (steel) cab mounts right now? how much did you cut down the core support (how tall is it measured top to cut)?

can you lower the core support?

I see a lot of new guys mount their cabs too low (not you, saying in general) because they want that earthworm stance, but in my admittedly dim opinion thaat just creates a lot of work to trim out the floor of the cab and bed for room and leaves no room for a radiator. my rear mounts are about 4.5" tall with bushing and that gives a very small trans tunnel and lots of room up front for activities, only raises the bed floor 1.5" and you can make that 1" if you use the stock s10 floor. after that, 2" spindles, 2" coils, 4" leafs and a 2" block absolutely POUND the truck, like its almost nerve wracking to drive because its so low, best of both worlds.

[1project2many]

Taller rubber spacers mean more cab and fender flexing. And over time the rubber tends to break down which means the cab or body will sag. Polyurethane is a better choice and can be fairly inexpensive if sourced from a Jeep catalog.

I hear that using hockey pucks as the rubber portion of the cab mount is not acceptable and may be illegal in Canada.

I'm sorry, but I've never heard of hockey pucks being illegal for anything in Canada.

[Driver_WT]

Originally Posted by joedoh

how tall are your (steel) cab mounts right now? how much did you cut down the core support (how tall is it measured top to cut)?

can you lower the core support?

I see a lot of new guys mount their cabs too low (not you, saying in general) because they want that earthworm stance, but in my admittedly dim opinion thaat just creates a lot of work to trim out the floor of the cab and bed for room and leaves no room for a radiator. my rear mounts are about 4.5" tall with bushing and that gives a very small trans tunnel and lots of room up front for activities, only raises the bed floor 1.5" and you can make that 1" if you use the stock s10 floor. after that, 2" spindles, 2" coils, 4" leafs and a 2" block absolutely POUND the truck, like its almost nerve wracking to drive because its so low, best of both worlds.

Thanks Joedoh. I will get some measurements this evening and take some pics as well.

[Driver_WT]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

Taller rubber spacers mean more cab and fender flexing. And over time the rubber tends to break down which means the cab or body will sag. Polyurethane is a better choice and can be fairly inexpensive if sourced from a Jeep catalog.

Cab movement and rubber breakdown are my concerns. Thanks for the reply.

[mr48chev]

Stock S-10 cab mounts are probably a lot softer than hockey pucks.

Still once you have the final heights figured out you can make some more solid spacer to put in place.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Stock S-10 cab mounts are probably a lot softer than hockey pucks.

funny enough, it only makes a difference if you use bushings on both the cab and the front clip. I see guys solid mount their front clip and use bushings on the cab! the bushings are supposed to isolate RHV (ride harshness and vibration) from the cab, solid mounting your front clip is opposite of this.

for that matter, most of the bolt on kits I see use a flap of rubber (like the stock AD) which does absolutely nothing to isolate the cab.

does it really matter in a squeaky 70 year old cab? maybe not!

[Driver_WT]

Originally Posted by joedoh

how tall are your (steel) cab mounts right now? how much did you cut down the core support (how tall is it measured top to cut)?

can you lower the core support?

I see a lot of new guys mount their cabs too low (not you, saying in general) because they want that earthworm stance, but in my admittedly dim opinion thaat just creates a lot of work to trim out the floor of the cab and bed for room and leaves no room for a radiator. my rear mounts are about 4.5" tall with bushing and that gives a very small trans tunnel and lots of room up front for activities, only raises the bed floor 1.5" and you can make that 1" if you use the stock s10 floor. after that, 2" spindles, 2" coils, 4" leafs and a 2" block absolutely POUND the truck, like its almost nerve wracking to drive because its so low, best of both worlds.

Answers to your questions:
Front steel cab mount (welded to frame) is 4.25" above the S10 frame plus 2.5 inches of hockey pucks and rubber body mount.

Rear steel cab mount (welded to frame) is 3" above S10 frame plus 2.5 inches of hockey pucks and rubber body mount.

Core support is as low as it can go (it is about 1/8" above the bolts on the S10 steering box). I have about 1/4" of large rubber discs under the core support.

The core support is made of C channel and flat steel bar. The C channel sides are 20" high. From the bottom of the core support to the inner fender/fender attachment bracket it is 15.25".

Here are some pics.

I acquired this truck as an unfinished project. Previous owner did the body mounts and core support, so I don't know much about them. It does say E-Z on the front metal part that covers the frame horns and on the transmission cross member.

[joedoh]

at first read it sounds like they put the front mounts on the back and vice versa. on my setups the rear mounts are taller than the front

let me read some more and think about it.

[Driver_WT]

Originally Posted by joedoh

at first read it sounds like they put the front mounts on the back and vice versa. on my setups the rear mounts are taller than the front

let me read some more and think about it.

Makes sense as I am trying to put a bit of rake into the vehicle, so the rear should be a little higher.

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

I'm sorry, but I've never heard of hockey pucks being illegal for anything in Canada.

[Driver_WT]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Stock S-10 cab mounts are probably a lot softer than hockey pucks.

Still once you have the final heights figured out you can make some more solid spacer to put in place.

Is it acceptable/recommended to have 2.5" rubber cab mount bushing, or should I raise the height of the steel cab mount which is welded to the frame?

Thanks.

[mr48chev]

I really don't know the density of hockey pucks. I've very honestly never had one in my hand.

I'd say it is up to you and that it would be a simple task for you to build decent risers to either sit on top of your stands or weld to your stands to raise it up. A correct length of the right size tubing, a piece with the proper size hole drilled in the center to weld into the end of that tubing (both ends if you don't weld it on) and there you go. Beats the tar out of those galvanized pipe nipples some of the local goat ropers used for body lifts on their 4x4 trucks around here in the 80's and 90's because they were too cheap to buy lift kits.

[dsraven]

if you figure out the height you need to raise the body you can take that dimension, subtract the thickness of the body mount you plan to use (squashed thickness, not what it measures on the bench with no weight on it), then you can cut a length of pipe or square tubing that long and weld some flat on both ends, like big washers so there is a bolt hole, and use them as spacers under your mounts. DIY 4x4 guys do this all the time for a body lift. you may even be able to source the length you need at a 4x4 shop or online site. most manufactured lifts are plastic, you could make your own using plastic round stock purchased at your local industrial plastic outlet. most shops will cut it to length for a small fee, and then drill a hole through for the bolt. I suggest to use rubber or urethane insulators under all the cab and rad support mounts or else use nothing under them all. the cab and front sheet metal needs to move as a unit because it all bolts together as a unit. solid mounted on one end and movable mounts under the other parts will likely result in stress cracked parts and misaligned body parts like hood and doors in the near future.

[dsraven]

an example of a body lift kit.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MITSUBIS...-/182505971192

[dsraven]

how they look installed with insulator

https://allegro.pl/oferta/body-lift-...0mm-8815693083

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Driver_WT

Makes sense as I am trying to put a bit of rake into the vehicle, so the rear should be a little higher.

dont put the rake in the body if you can help it, use the suspension. putting rake in the body is nuts for trying to get everything straight on the frame, especially the core support and the bed.

use some jacks, if you dont have enough, maybe borrow some, and set the cab exactly level with the flat part of the top of the frame. it should measure about 4.5/4.75 tall off the flat part of the frame to the flat part of the floor. look from the side to make sure the rocker edge is indeed level with the top of the frame.

I checked my measurements and my rear cab stands are 1.25" taller in the rear than the fronts. this is because of the brace that the front cab mounts sit on. so that sure looks like they got the mounts on the frame backwards. this would probably explain why you cant get it to line up with the core support too.

4.5/4.75 off the frame is a great height because it lets you get super low with suspension mods, all the way to the running boards on the ground if you want, but still gives you a lot of room for a trans, just a small bump at the front of the floor, and also lets you get a decent sized radiator. I dont like when guys set the cab up super low on the frame, sure it looks low but once the running boards hit the ground you dont really need to go any lower, and going lower just means the running boards will hang under the frame.

[NorCalGal]

Looks like the previous owner installed the e-z chassis swap kit on your s10 already. If so I believe everything would have been pre set.

[Driver_WT]

Thanks for all the input and great suggestions. I have a good idea of what I have to do. And I believe we have the cab at the correct height. We can make risers from pipe or square tubing and use them to attain the correct height with the rubber cab mounts. Joedoh, thanks for the measurement info. Very helpful and greatly appreciated.