47-55.1 Steering rod???

[8man]

Here is where I am...
IMG_0600 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

The questions are as follows:
First, the u-joints have long screws sticking out of them. I have snugged them up against the rods, but was wondering if I'm supposed to pull it all back apart and drill a hole in the rod for the screws to go in or just tighten up the nut on the screw.

Second, if you look closely you can see where I've got a small green c-clamp holding a "bracket" to the side of a motor mount. The steering wheel turns the steering box easily in this alignment even without power, but I was wondering if I can mount the bracket to the side of the motor mount by drilling a couple of holes and adding a couple of bolts, or if that might compromise the motor mount.

Showing my inexperience again I know, but I'm working on it.

[jwhotrod]

first of all, if that is where everything works good, you should not be compromising your motor mounts by drilling and tapping a couple of holes in it. secondly the screws are long because the manufacturer has no idea what you are doing with that u joint, i would take it back apart and where the screws marked the shaft, drill a drill point into the shaft so the screw has a depression to set in, go to your hardware store and get yourself some shorter set screws, locktight them in place and move on. my 35 chevy has the steering shaft passing thru the header similar to yours and i have not had any concerns with it in 5 years of running. good luck!!!!

[mongocanfly]

Only thing about mounting it to the motor mount is if you ever need to move the mount..coming off frame would be better...I agree with drilling a dimple into the DD shaft...and get some shorter set screws..

[8man]

Thanks guys. That is what I was thinking, but it helps to have other thoughts before I do something.

I will drill some dimples in the shafts. As for the mount, I'll figure a place to put it on the frame.

[dsraven]

the exhaust heat is probably gonna wreak havoc with the ujoints but if thats where it has to go...
check to ensure the upper control arm will never hit it the shaft even when the suspension bottoms out the snubber. like on a huge pothole or a spring breaks and the snubber peals off etc etc.
shorter set screws and blue loctite

[mr48chev]

The only issue with mounting your bracket to the support for the motor mount is that you may have one more step involved if you need to swap motor mounts. That is "may" and not a big issue if it is a clean installation and the shaft doesn't wiggle it around when you drive. Painted chassis black the bracket will fade into the background a bit too.

As far as the U joint bolts go, I'd say it is mark them with a marker and remove them and take your samples to Fastenal or another serous fastener store and get the correct bolts in the right length with matching lock nuts. You should have maybe two threads showing past the nut when all is said and done. The bolt houses refer to them as socket set screws (not socket head as they don't have heads) . Scroll down to the stainless section https://www.fastenal.com/product/fas...FamilyId=25817

A really well stocked ACE hardware might have them in one of the drawers above the bolt bins but those are stainless and ACE may not have stainless.

I'd just measure and replace every one of those screws that are in all of the U joints to the correct length pieces and be done with it. I doubt the whole batch will cost 10 bucks. The other way would be measure and cut them on the end opposite the socket for the Allen wrench so that they are correct length.

It all depends on you if you make the indent for the set screw in the shaft. Tightened down they shouldn't move and you do want them to let the shafts slip if you ever get in a serous front end impact. I don't think that there is any way that shaft will fall out on it's own with just the set screws tight.

[joedoh]

if using a solid DD shaft, put a dimple. if your DD shaft is hollow, drill through ONE SIDE ONLY.

everything else has been addressed!

[mr48chev]

Those may have been intended for a hollow shaft but the two being at 90 degree angles wouldn't both bottom out on the inside of the shaft if the shaft was drilled.

This Borgeson joint shows the correct length screws for a solid shaft. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/brg-114952

[8man]

Ok, taking all the good advice into account, I worked on the bracket, re-shaping it some, then drilled two holes in the frame, and taped them so I could bolt it on. This is what I got.
IMG_0601 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I have about 1.25" of clearance all the way around the U-joint that is in amongst the header pipes.

I will paint the bracket when I take it all back apart, because I have not replaced the screws, nor have I drilled the dimples in the solid shafts, because I wanted to get the front fenders on tomorrow to check the fit one more time before paint. I'll do the dimples and screws when I take the front end back off for paint.

[mongocanfly]

If you snug the set screws down good , they'll mark the shaft where you need your dimples drilled...that way you wont have to drill thru the set screw hole and risk thread damage..

[mr48chev]

Well done on moving that mount to the frame, that cleaned the clutter look up a bunch. It kind of disappears behind the shaft now.

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by dsraven

the exhaust heat is probably gonna wreak havoc with the ujoints...

You brought up a good point. I always keep my steering u-joints a safe distance away from the exhaust for that exact reason (my panel truck u-joints are about 6" from the header) however I see lots of vehicles at shows with joints EXTREMELY close to the headers, apparently without problems.

I found this thread on the HAMB where guys claim as close as 1/8" distance between u-joint and exhaust for 20 years with no problems. The consensus seems to be 1/2" is safe enough, and 8man appears to have at least that much.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...header.676509/


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[8man]

Thanks Greg, I'll look for those marks.

Mr48, it does kind of hide behind the shaft, and when I paint the galvanized bar from the original E-brake I used black, it should completely disappear.

Miracle, I read the article, those are close! Thanks. I should be good if they are still running theirs.

[Rickysnickers]

One thing I would add, to the otherwise already stellar advise, is to use Locktite on those set screws. I used the new orange stuff. It works really well and it isn't nearly as difficult to remove the screws if needed.

[mr48chev]

I'm thinking that 8man has a lot more clearance between the U joint and the header than the photo makes it look like.

[8man]

Yes sir, I do have about 1.25" of clearance.