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Old 12-15-2003, 09:31 PM   #1
Nate003
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switching a 68 from a throttle rod to a throttle cable

hey everyone, just wanted some advice and opinions, i just started switching my throttle rod setup to a throttle cable setup. just wondering if anyone has done this, and if they have any advice or pictures. Any help would be great. thank you, nate
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Old 12-15-2003, 11:09 PM   #2
shuttermutt
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Yeah, I'd be interested in what others have done here, too. I've rigged things up in the past, but I don't know if there's a "proper" way to do it.
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Old 12-16-2003, 02:06 PM   #3
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Just curious.... why are you switching?
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Old 12-16-2003, 02:13 PM   #4
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The firewall section for the throttle area is different between 67-70 (rod linkage) and 71/72 (cable linkage) cabs. Not only is the throttle bracket different and bolted to a different spot, there is an additional square hole in the firewall for the cable to set in.

I guess to do it properly, you'd need to cut out the 67-70 style section of firewall and graft in the 71/72 style from a donor cab.

I'm not clear as to your wanting to do this but IMO it had better be a real good one to go through all this trouble.

Of course, if you are good at "backyard engineering" you can make anything work, but shuttermutt tossed in the word "proper"
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Old 12-16-2003, 02:13 PM   #5
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Most newer carbs are easier to connect with the cable system. Or, that could be total B.S. now that I think about it. I just seem to remember that connecting the Quad in my Chevelle (the old engine) was a pain due to a newer carb with the older rod system. Also seems like I had troubles with an Edelbrock on a rod system.
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Old 12-16-2003, 02:16 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by shuttermutt
Most newer carbs are easier to connect with the cable system.
And grafting in an entire section of firewall is easier?

Not sure what carb you're using but I do know the Edelbrock performers are a slam dunk, even with the stock rod linkage.
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67 Chevy SWB 2WD stepside 350/3 on tree (Pat's)
67 GMC SWB 2WD Fleet 402/auto (Brian's under construction)
67 Chevy 3/4 ton 2WD 402/auto (Business Hauler)
67 Chevy 1 ton dually 2WD 396/4 speed (Former business hauler, Needs TLC)
68 Chevy 1/2 ton Suburban 2WD 250 six/3 on tree (Brian's Needs TLC)
70 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD 350/4 speed (Pat's - Disguised as a 68 GMC)
71 Chevy SWB stepside (Crushed by tree - parts donor)
72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD (Parts donor)
72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD Suburban (Parts Donor)
72 GMC 3/4 ton 4WD 292 six/4 speed (Mine - Disguised as a 67 GMC)
81 GMC 4WD Dually Dump Body 350/4 speed (Business Hauler)
82 Camaro Z/28 355/Super T-10 (Pat's toy)
93 Caprice 9C1 (Brian's Cop Car)
02 Toyota Camry (Reliable but a souless steel and plastic hulk)
2011 2SS RS Camaro M6 Factory Hurst Shifter

Maybe I need to sell some of this crap

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Old 12-16-2003, 02:25 PM   #7
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I like the simplicity and ease of operation of the rod-linkage type throttle. I've had no problems conecting them to Edelbrock carbs, but might be an issue with other styles/brands?
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Old 12-16-2003, 02:39 PM   #8
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I don't think the rod will work when/if you want to swap to an O.D. automatic tranny (well @ least on my 68 w/1 barrel the rod linkage/brackets don't have provisions for a TV cable). I did get a 78 model 1 barrel bracket & throttle cable set-up that came from a truck w/a t350 & I'm gonna try & piece something together.

CPNE, I don't think it's entirely necessary to "graft an entire section". Just punch a new hole for the cable then square it up. For the differences in the pedal assemblies, I'm gonna try & use parts from both.
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Old 12-16-2003, 02:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by CPNE


And grafting in an entire section of firewall is easier?

Not sure what carb you're using but I do know the Edelbrock performers are a slam dunk, even with the stock rod linkage.
You make the assumption that "grafting an entire section of firewall" is the only solution. All I'm saying is that cable throttle setups are generally a drop-kick and the rod, while positively stunning in their simplicity and reliability, can be a bit more troublesome.
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Old 12-16-2003, 02:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by SCOTI
CPNE, I don't think it's entirely necessary to "graft an entire section". Just punch a new hole for the cable then square it up. For the differences in the pedal assemblies, I'm gonna try & use parts from both.
I addressed that possibility with the "backyard engineering" qualifier in my post, but the operative word used by shuttermutt was "proper"

"Proper" is a subjective term and to me it means using OE parts including cable, pedal, and brackets. No doubt your way will work too.
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Currently on or near the homestead:

67 Chevy SWB 2WD stepside 350/3 on tree (Pat's)
67 GMC SWB 2WD Fleet 402/auto (Brian's under construction)
67 Chevy 3/4 ton 2WD 402/auto (Business Hauler)
67 Chevy 1 ton dually 2WD 396/4 speed (Former business hauler, Needs TLC)
68 Chevy 1/2 ton Suburban 2WD 250 six/3 on tree (Brian's Needs TLC)
70 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD 350/4 speed (Pat's - Disguised as a 68 GMC)
71 Chevy SWB stepside (Crushed by tree - parts donor)
72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD (Parts donor)
72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD Suburban (Parts Donor)
72 GMC 3/4 ton 4WD 292 six/4 speed (Mine - Disguised as a 67 GMC)
81 GMC 4WD Dually Dump Body 350/4 speed (Business Hauler)
82 Camaro Z/28 355/Super T-10 (Pat's toy)
93 Caprice 9C1 (Brian's Cop Car)
02 Toyota Camry (Reliable but a souless steel and plastic hulk)
2011 2SS RS Camaro M6 Factory Hurst Shifter

Maybe I need to sell some of this crap

Yet another Bozo with a sawz-all
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Old 12-16-2003, 02:52 PM   #11
CPNE
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Quote:
Originally posted by shuttermutt

You make the assumption that "grafting an entire section of firewall" is the only solution. All I'm saying is that cable throttle setups are generally a drop-kick and the rod, while positively stunning in their simplicity and reliability, can be a bit more troublesome.
No assumption was made about the only way, just the "proper" way. See my previous post and note my interpretation of "proper".
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Currently on or near the homestead:

67 Chevy SWB 2WD stepside 350/3 on tree (Pat's)
67 GMC SWB 2WD Fleet 402/auto (Brian's under construction)
67 Chevy 3/4 ton 2WD 402/auto (Business Hauler)
67 Chevy 1 ton dually 2WD 396/4 speed (Former business hauler, Needs TLC)
68 Chevy 1/2 ton Suburban 2WD 250 six/3 on tree (Brian's Needs TLC)
70 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD 350/4 speed (Pat's - Disguised as a 68 GMC)
71 Chevy SWB stepside (Crushed by tree - parts donor)
72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD (Parts donor)
72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD Suburban (Parts Donor)
72 GMC 3/4 ton 4WD 292 six/4 speed (Mine - Disguised as a 67 GMC)
81 GMC 4WD Dually Dump Body 350/4 speed (Business Hauler)
82 Camaro Z/28 355/Super T-10 (Pat's toy)
93 Caprice 9C1 (Brian's Cop Car)
02 Toyota Camry (Reliable but a souless steel and plastic hulk)
2011 2SS RS Camaro M6 Factory Hurst Shifter

Maybe I need to sell some of this crap

Yet another Bozo with a sawz-all
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Old 12-16-2003, 03:14 PM   #12
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Nate,

I'm with Slammed67... Why do you want to change?
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Old 12-16-2003, 07:05 PM   #13
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i need to do somthing. i am definately not getting all the pedal i should. i have a edelbrock 1406 and bowtie overdrives t.v. kit. the t.v. bracket was in the way of the stock rod position, so i had to rig it a bit. i made the stock linkage taller to go over the t.v. bracket. but now i dont believe it is pulling full throttle. i am thinking of going with an aftermarket unit.
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Old 12-16-2003, 07:30 PM   #14
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I used the pedal assembly off a 72 and squared up the hole with a DIE Grinder. It works awsome. I had the rod assembly jam open on me one time and that was enough, plus it is easier when you are useing aftermarket carb. I am running a HOLLEY 750, and I get ALL the pedal. Give that a shot lotik
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Old 12-16-2003, 07:34 PM   #15
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NSANE68!!! do you by chance have a pic showing how that pedal assembly looks in your 68?
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Old 12-16-2003, 07:53 PM   #16
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I put one in a 67 chevelle I built that had the engine set back to use late model long waterpump brackets...had to set the engine back to have room for a regular fan. I got one off an 80 something pickup truck...drilled the holes in the firewall, bolted it up...I sure it took less than thirty minutes...worked like a charm
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Old 12-16-2003, 09:30 PM   #17
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i just talked to a guy and he convinced me that switching from a rod to a cable is a good idea, saying that he's had to many problems with the rod, and i didn't have a rod, but i had the cable setup laying around, after experimenting with the 72 pedal in the 68, i realized the firewall is differant and will need some extra work, isn't just a bolt on swap that i thought it would be. I have the 72 pedal mounted but i'm just seeing if anyone has done the cable through the firewall cus where it has to go, the firewall isn't flat but like some people said before, some backyard engineering can make it work. NSANE68 do you have any pics of your setup? thanks everyone for your help.
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Old 12-17-2003, 12:49 AM   #18
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I purchased a 71 pedal and cable assy and removed the kickdown bracket and used the bottom hole in the kickdown bracket to line up with the metal holddown plate. I made a mounting plate out of the kick down bracket with two sets of holes . one set to match existing firewall holes and another set to match the 71 pedal holddown plate. The top set of holes are close together but slightly offset. I then inserted two thin head torx screws (Lowes special hardware drawers) from back of plate to line up with 71 hold down plate and brazed them in place. I then used two more of the screws to screw the manufactured plate to the existing firewall nuts.
The bottom hole in the kickdown bracket lines up with the hold down plate and the hole in firewall and I used the existing bolt in the third hole. This setup will require heating and bending the pedal arm that holds the end of the cable approx 1/2 inch to the left. Look close at your firewall it may be dimpled where you need to drill hole for cable to pass through firewall. I drilled hole and saquared up with a file. Works good I have had zero problems with this mod. I did mine mainly due to going to 700r4 easier to set up tv cable IMO. Sorry no pictures no digicam. Be glad to answer questions.
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