55.2-59 Need ignition switch wiring Help

[ApacheProject]

I need help with my 58 Apache’s ignition switch, I think something is not right here. I tried to start my truck and just heard a click. I bumped the solenoid and started the truck but it wouldn’t shut off with the switch. I’m using the universal type ignition switch and harness adapter from Classic Parts that works with factory harness. All parts are new. Does anyone have a picture or diagram of this switch with Wires connected? Thanks

[mongocanfly]

Did it have a schematic with the switch?...how do you have it wired...?
Heres my universal switch..

[ApacheProject]

Mine doesn’t look like that, has flat blades for the connectors

[mongocanfly]

My old one also had the flat blades...but the post locations are the same...
Is your switch not marked on the back?...by each post...
My old and new switch have marking just like on the paper in the pic

[dsraven]

can you post a pic or two of what you have there? a quick color key for your wiring would also help so we can figure out what wire you need to connect where. otherwise we are just guessing. there really isn't much to the stock wiring harness compared to newer cars so you can likely trace your wires to their destination pretty easily. a test light would help if you need to find the battery supply wire. are you using the stock foot starter or wiring in a key starter or push button starter switch? did it work properly before you swapped the ign switch or is this a first time start for you? some background on the truck would be good as well.

maybe this will help. it's good to download and keep a copy of the manual for reference later on for all sorts of little things. even if doing a modification from the stock assembly you can look to see how it was done originally if needed.
look at section 12 sheet 18 ish, that diagram should show wire colors and locations for the stock switch and harness. hope that helps.

https://www.trifive.com/d1/55-59Assy.pdf

[dsraven]

also, section 12 sheet 24 shows the ignition resistor wiring. the engine should see battery voltage at the ign coil for start up, then the current to the ign coil is fed through a resistor so the ignition system gets less voltage and the points, condenser and coil last longer.

[dsraven]

how many posts or terminal locations do you have on the ignition switch and the starter solenoid? some switches are made for a key starter instead of pedal starter. they would have the extra posts on the switch to operate the starter from the key and also may have a terminal to send battery voltage to the ign coil when using the starter. some starter solenoids are wired to give battery voltage to the coil from the actual starter when the starter is operated, those key operated starters have a smaller gauge (typically black I believe) wire connected to the R terminal on the starter solenoid which feeds battery voltage to the coil when the starter is operating. when the key is released from the start position then that circuit is stopped and ignition supply power comes from the ignition switch itself. the S terminal on the starter solenoid would be the one wired to the key start position and that wire is typically purple I believe.
anyway, some pics of the ign switch back side and also the starter solenoid would help us help you.

[dsraven]

check this out from ogre. it would help us help you fix stuff if we know what you are working on. stock, modified? this shows how to add that in your signature so we don't have to look up your previous posts in order to try to find out what exactly you have. even some pics of what you are working on today in the posts you write would help us help you.

this is ogre's post on how to add your build info into your signature.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...80#post6253380

[Tempest67]

Look on pages 17 - 19 on here


https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/02...f?v=1590552626

[MiraclePieCo]

Typically, not shutting off with the ignition switch is a result of the alternator backfeeding power back into the ignition system. An inline diode is the cure.

[ApacheProject]

Still using generator on this truck

[mr48chev]

If it doesn't have an alternator that is feeding back which is a way too common thing on swaps you have a wire that is either hooked up in the wrong place or you have a hot wire crossing the ignition wire.

I'd do this first: start it and then when you shut the key off and remove it and it still runs get under the dash and pull the ignition wire off the switch. That will tell you if there is power getting to the ignition from somewhere else. If it quits it is at the switch if it doesn't quit it is somewhere else.

Or just get your multi meter out and see if you have power to the + side of the coil as it sits there with the key off, out and in your pocket. If you have power there go in and unplug the ignition wire from the switch and check to see if you have power to that wire from another source. If you do, find out why.

[dsraven]

did you get it figured out apache?

[ApacheProject]

Not yet, replaced the starter because it had a loose terminal on the solenoid. It still doesn’t start, just a single click. I’ll have to check all connections to the switch. The truck has a completely new factory style wiring harness. All wire colors should match original so I’ll just have to dig in the books and double check all connections.

[dsraven]

ok, assuming the engine is not siezed up, lol.
first ensure you have a good battery and the connections at the terminals are good. then follow the cables down to their ends and ensure the terminals there are good and clean etc. lots of times a poor connection at an engine ground turns out to be the problem, or the ground cable from the body to the engine is not good. on your truck, does the negative cable go from the battery to the body close to the battery tray and then another cable goes from the cab to the engine to complete the ground to engine circuit?
if an original starter style with the foot stomp pedal, ensure the linkage is set up to fully depress the button on the starter switch on top of the starter. if that checks out, take the switch off the top of the starter and ensure that the brass contacts have actually been contacting each other when you step on the pedal. under the switch there should be a lug on the starter that supplies battery power when contacted by the brass inside the foot stomp switch. if the starter just clicks when you step on the pedal that could be the mechanical part of the system simply pushing the bendix gear into the flywheel causing the click sound and there is no power getting to the starter motor so it doesn't crank. this could be due to a bad contact inside the switch, not enough travel in the linkage to push the switch fully, worn off lug on the starter under the switch or the brass contact on the switch is worn so it can't contact the lug. a quick way to check if the motor actually spins would be to remove the switch screwed onto the starter and apply battery voltage to the lug on the starter that the switch would normally contact. if the lever on the starter is not pushed then the bendix shouldn't spin into the flywheel so just the motor would spin, not the engine. block the wheels and place the trans in neutral just to be sure and keep stuff out of the belts and fan etc.
if the starter cranks the engine but it doesn't catch check if the switch on the starter has a small wire connected to the side. that is the coil supply wire so the coil gets full battery power when the engine is cranking.
anyway, hope that helps.
again, a pic would be nice.

[dsraven]

with that old style pedal starter power could feed to the coil from that side terminal on the starter switch if things went wrong inside the starter mounted switch, depending on how it was wired. some are wired from that terminal back to the ign switch and then out to the coil. some are wired directly from that terminal to the coil. that would mean the engine would keep running after the key is turned off. it would also burn the points and drain the battery though.

[ApacheProject]

This is a 283 v8 truck with key switch. I’m going to check all wiring and battery strength this week. It’s located at my shop so I don’t go down there everyday. Thanks for all the info

[dsraven]

If its aregular old 283 starter, and it just clicks, first check battery voltage and load test, voltage at starter and the ignition battery supply, should be the same as battery and if not there are bad connections somewhere that need repair. Then try the starter at the key and see if it still just clicks. If so make yourself a remote start switch or short the starter solenoid to see if it still just clicks. If so get the starter checked probably a bad connection inside the solenoid. A bad solenoid can also make the engine keep running as well if the internal connection for the coil supply is compromised welded on inside or whatever.

[mr48chev]

Check the voltage at the battery as Dsraven said first. It might not hurt to put the charger on it for a bit while you check the rest of the connections. A multi meter is you best friend here. after you check the voltage across the top of the battery connect the ground lead to the engine on something bare metal and see if you get a full voltage reading. Then see if you get full voltage at the terminal on the end of the ground cable. I've seen too many that had several coats of engine paint working as insulation to keep the cable from making a good ground. BARE Shiny metal. If the cable is fastened to a bracket rather than the block you need bare metal contact spots all the way back to the block to make sure you have good electrical flow.

I've gotten to where I upgrade the cable size on 12 V rigs after fighting with my 77 dualie They like a good amp flow that those skinny cables restrict.

[ApacheProject]

I finally got it started yesterday. It was one of the red wires to the ignition, moved it to the batt terminal and it started right up. I’m guessing the other red wire goes next to it? I need glasses lol

[mr48chev]

The "other" red wire.

[ApacheProject]

Yes, there’s another red wire. It’s the same as the ignition red wire, I think it comes from the headlight/gauges harness.

[mr48chev]

That's going to keep you busy for a while. A game of where does this wire go and what does it do, isn't always that much fun.

Hopefully all the wires aren't read as they were on my buddy's 29 Model A 42 years ago.

[Black_Sheep]

does your switch look like this?