alternator help Please

[52napco]

OK here's my question for the experts.. I want to retain my original date coded
delco alternator but would prefer to convert it to internal regulator.. I could very easily bolt a 1 wire on but I really wanted to keep my original alternator but do away with the troublesome external regulator.. does anyone make a kit to convert these?

[Steeveedee]

There is no room inside an alternator without an internal regulator to put said regulator.

[52napco]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

There is no room inside an alternator without an internal regulator to put said regulator.

correct.. so I'm going to just keep my external regulator since the truck is so original

[Steeveedee]

I'd like to do the same, but also don't want to lose the original look. There are only a few things that aren't original, but I'm not letting the disc brakes hurt my eyes. That's a great upgrade, especially when towing a 3 ton travel trailer.

[dmjlambert]

You can upgrade to a solid state regulator, and take the can off of the original regulator and put it on the solid state regulator. It will look very original but have modern guts. I don't think there's any super advantage to an internal regulator vs. a solid state external regulator.

[Already Gone]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

You can upgrade to a solid state regulator, and take the can off of the original regulator and put it on the solid state regulator. It will look very original but have modern guts. I don't think there's any super advantage to an internal regulator vs. a solid state external regulator.

I replaced my voltage relater acouple years ago and change cans as you mentioned to keep the original look. Where can I get solid state regulator ?

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

You can upgrade to a solid state regulator, and take the can off of the original regulator and put it on the solid state regulator. It will look very original but have modern guts. I don't think there's any super advantage to an internal regulator vs. a solid state external regulator.

The advantage was that that the factory had less wires to run, and less connectors to connect. I know a guy who figured out (like about '70) that if you used 2 screws at the bottom of the door panel (instead of 4) on some of the vehicles, it would be cheaper. He made the recommendation because he only had to install 2 instead of 4 screws, and got a $25 Savings Bond for it. When the manufacturer measures expense at the .1¢ (called a mil of a dollar, as well) level, it's a big deal. Two less screws in every car going down the assembly line when production is ~ 100k cars in a production year is a lot of screws...and a lot of money, when it gets spread to other assembly plants.

[dmjlambert]

Originally Posted by Already Gone

I replaced my voltage relater acouple years ago and change cans as you mentioned to keep the original look. Where can I get solid state regulator ?

The Wells and Autozone part number is VR715. I have not had one but there have been discussions here on the forum about them.

[MARKDTN]

I was thinking you can use the front half of the alternator with the date code and swap on the back half to one with internal regulator style case? You lose the "look" but keep the date code.

[52napco]

I thought about that and will give it a twirl later this week

[RichardJ]

The first image is the bottom of a typical, original style Voltage Regulator. They usually have two wire wound, ceramic resistors on the bottom.
The Solid State Regulator in the second image has no exposed resistors and because it has no relays inside, can easily weigh less the half as much as the original style relay.

Most FLAPS sell the solid state regulator in the neighborhood of $30. The original style regulators sell in the $50 to $70 dollar range or more.
You could put an original DELCO cap on either one, if that's important to you.

Most FLAPS now sell rebuilt 10DN Alternators with a rating of 55 Amps. Summit racing even has one rated at 100 Amps.