67 Stepper Bed - Thoughts and Opinions

[67C10Step]

I may already know the answer to this question but would like some thoughts and possibly advice from others that have already tread this path.

I hope to have my truck road worthy by spring - minus the bed. When I pulled the bed apart the only two pieces I kept were the bed sides. The fenders were repairable, but the truck came with a super nice pair if 68-72 fenders so I sold the others. So, now I have two nice rear fenders and two bed sides that could be saved with some work.

I was looking at the Mar K web site to price out the front panel, rear sill, cross sills, etc. and saw they have a complete bed box (minus wood of course) that I could install my fenders on for $1,800 plus shipping. I am seriously thinking this is my path forward. Save me a ton of time without spending a whole lot more money.

Thoughts and experienced opinions welcomed.

[72c20customcamper]

Mar-k makes quality parts my experience with them is that shipping kills it for me . Was going to buy upper moldings for my LWB but shipping would have doubled the price. Best bet is to order thru Summit and just pay the oversize shipping. That's what I did on the moldings had to pay $ 20 for oversized shipping .

[Boog]

Bill this is timely as I started on my step bed last week and wondered if you had begun yours yet. I have good fenders and bed sides. I have already purchased the tail gate, front panel and all cross members and hardware. I'm giving thought to ordering a wood kit now and I'll have far less than half the cost of a complete repop bed when done. So far I have all the cross members and the bed strips cut out and the corner angle strip on one side. The corner angle strips are spot welded and a good job to remove. You can bet yours have some rust behind them like mine that has to be taken care of. Mine is pitted behind the angle strip but no through holes. Also know that those angle strips are what sturdi up the bed side panel. I would hope the repop panels are of similar gauge metal.

[67C10Step]

Jim,
Some PO of my truck thought that tongue and groove wood, carriage bolts, and angle iron was a good idea. I had removed the piece of angle iron on the right side before I took the first photo.

I never had a tailgate and my front panel and rear cross sill were too far gone to save. The bed sides are solid but both top flanges (for lack of a better term) are tweaked downward like something heavy had been laid on them. Not exactly sure how I'd get them back to 90 degrees from the sides and look right.

I got the rear end all sorted out now but probably won't tackle putting a bed on until I get the brakes totally complete and possible exhaust as well. My fenders are excellent but I sure wish they were 67 correct with no side marker openings. They will get modified eventually.

[Boog]

Well the PO sure put some hefty parts in it for strength. And you missed out on cutting all those spot welds out. I hate that.
I know Mar K has a good rep. Aren't they located in Kansas or Ok? Maybe a roadtrip and save shipping cost? Also I think I've seen Kentucky Classics sells bed kits too, maybe others. What does Summit offer?
Your frame and suspension looks like new.

[1971Stepside]

Drive to KC and pick them up and save the shipping. I will say that even "new" parts require work. I had original fenders and ended up buying new bed sides, front panel and rear cross sill. If you call and order parts from LMC and then pick them up you save 10%.

[67C10Step]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

Drive to KC and pick them up and save the shipping. I will say that even "new" parts require work. I had original fenders and ended up buying new bed sides, front panel and rear cross sill. If you call and order parts from LMC and then pick them up you save 10%.

I saw on Mar K's web site they are in Oklahoma City. Thinking I can probably talk the wife into a road trip over there. Probably not really save the shipping costs but rather turn them into a win win by taking her as she loves road trips.

I'm still a bit from that but just thinking a month or so ahead of where I am currently.

Jim - You get to needing a hand just give me a call or text.

[fb111ewo]

Purchased everything from Mar-K (bits and pieces at a time - when they were on sale). Everything fit together perfectly (followed their instructions - which were handly to have for assembly). Couldn't be more pleased with the outcome.

[Boog]

Originally Posted by 67C10Step

I saw on Mar K's web site they are in Oklahoma City. Thinking I can probably talk the wife into a road trip over there. Probably not really save the shipping costs but rather turn them into a win win by taking her as she loves road trips.

I'm still a bit from that but just thinking a month or so ahead of where I am currently.

Jim - You get to needing a hand just give me a call or text.

I am proud to see their beds and parts are made in Oklahoma.
Also see what H&H in Bentonville has to offer. 1/2 as far and they sell some Mar-K products as well as Dynacorn and others.
Ok thanks.

[72c20customcamper]

Summit sells mar-k beds .

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrk-100005

[Boog]

That's a good price and drop shipped from Mar-K for about $130.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by Boog

That's a good price and drop shipped from Mar-K for about $130.

Makes ya wonder how they can do it.

[old51sedan]

My truck was pretty straight, all I needed was a tailgate, bought it from Mar-k and along with it bought the hidden hinge kit. I'm completely satisfied with both of them.

[67C10Step]

Thanks, everyone. I did check the Summit web site yesterday right before 72C20 posted the link. Gives me something to think about for sure as I move ahead. I know it would probably save me a good bit of time, even if the new bed sides need some work.

My next steps are to finish the never ending brake conversion and get some tires on my rally wheels since the old wheels won't fit the front now that it is disc.

[cericd]

Originally Posted by 67C10Step

Jim,
Some PO of my truck thought that tongue and groove wood, carriage bolts, and angle iron was a good idea. I had removed the piece of angle iron on the right side before I took the first photo.

I never had a tailgate and my front panel and rear cross sill were too far gone to save. The bed sides are solid but both top flanges (for lack of a better term) are tweaked downward like something heavy had been laid on them. Not exactly sure how I'd get them back to 90 degrees from the sides and look right.

I got the rear end all sorted out now but probably won't tackle putting a bed on until I get the brakes totally complete and possible exhaust as well. My fenders are excellent but I sure wish they were 67 correct with no side marker openings. They will get modified eventually.

Sorry to thread jack but could you tell how you prepped your frame for paint and what products you used to paint your frame and rear end? They look real good.

[67C10Step]

Cercid,
Thank you, it has been a labor of love. My frame prep was lots of wire brushing using a knotted wheel on a 4-1/2" side grinder, went over the flat surfaces with one of those paint stripper type wheels as well, and used a portable, pressure sand blaster with fine grit coal slag to get into all the nooks and crannies that I could not reach with the wheels. Particularly around the rivets and corners.

Cleaned and prepped with trisodium phosphate solution before priming. The top coat is Eastwood satin chassis black. I did a motorcycle frame with the same process in 2000 and used the gloss chassis black. Sold that bike in 2016 and that frame still looked like it did in 2000.

[cericd]

Originally Posted by 67C10Step

Cercid,
Thank you, it has been a labor of love. My frame prep was lots of wire brushing using a knotted wheel on a 4-1/2" side grinder, went over the flat surfaces with one of those paint stripper type wheels as well, and used a portable, pressure sand blaster with fine grit coal slag to get into all the nooks and crannies that I could not reach with the wheels. Particularly around the rivets and corners.

Cleaned and prepped with trisodium phosphate solution before priming. The top coat is Eastwood satin chassis black. I did a motorcycle frame with the same process in 2000 and used the gloss chassis black. Sold that bike in 2016 and that frame still looked like it did in 2000.

Well, I must say, all that work surely shows in the final finish. Thanks for the info.

[BigBird05]

Keep posting pictures as I will be building a short box from scratch.