55.2-59 55-59 truck gauges

[jeffs56]

Hey guys I’m at the point to where I need to get some gauges. I love the look of the original cluster. I do have my original gauges and were told they are in good shape. Obviously the issue is converting the ammeter to volt. And also making sure the others are accurate just in case the motor gets hot or issues with battery power or whatever. What’s your guys opinion on using the stock gauges or going with aftermarket like the autometer. The Dakota digital stuff and gauges similar to those are out of my price range. Thank you guys hope to get some info and pics of what your using. Thank you

[Rickysnickers]

A quick Google search pulled this up, https://www.hotrod.com/articles/repa...gauge-cluster/ and their website, http://redlinegaugeworks.com/services I have no info on them at all, but they are somewhat close to you. It would at least be worth a call to them and see what they say.

[_Ogre]

i like the stock gauges in task force truck, to me they identify the truck
the ammeter in old trucks is a fire waiting to happen, they were fazed out in the 60s
read thru my build to find how i converted my ammeter to a volt gauge, it was pretty easy
the pic shows the new volt meter at D, middle dot is 14v, as long as it hovers around the middle dot i'm good
i cleaned up the cluster and painted the panel with crinkle paint and bought a new face plate
i bought a new speedo, 3 of them actually and finally had bought an old one
if your speedo is in good shape, use it

[jeffs56]

I was told my speedometer works. But I have to convert the ammeter if I keep the stock gauges. Yes I contacted that redline gauge company they wanted $1250-1400 to rebuild my gauges 😳

[Janky59]

That seems pretty steep. I had my stock cluster “serviced” by autoinstruments.com in Martinsville, VA. Basically a cleaning and lubrication, but they do full blown overhauls too. Call and see what they say, good luck.

[Rickysnickers]

Originally Posted by jeffs56

i was told my speedometer works. But i have to convert the ammeter if i keep the stock gauges. Yes i contacted that redline gauge company they wanted $1250-1400 to rebuild my gauges 😳

wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[59chev]

Heres another option. I carefully cut up a 2" gauge and installed the guts on the original backing plate. I swapped out the Temp, Oil Pressure and replaced the amp gauge with a volt gauge.

[Daze57]

59 chev

that looks really really good
nice job !!!

[59chev]

Originally Posted by Daze57

59 chev

that looks really really good
nice job !!!

Thanks Daze57!

[dennislbrooks]

Same approach as 59chev on my GMC. I just pulled the dash out to install a new speedometer. Temp is 180 to 210 range, Amp is a voltmeter with a 12 to 14 range.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by dennislbrooks

Same approach as 59chev on my GMC. I just pulled the dash out to install a new speedometer. Temp is 180 to 210 range, Amp is a voltmeter with a 12 to 14 range.

is your truck on the road? have you used the new speedo and tested it for accuracy?

[dsraven]

you know, it's kinda funny if you sit back and think about it after having been on this site for awhile now, perusing through some of the build threads on this site only. and hopefully I don't come off the wrong way here. I absolutely mean no disrespect to anybody. here we are, dismantling old trucks down to several piles of cast away parts and some frame rails. literally. we build stuff back up from a pile of rusted through body panels and steel back into a modern version and do all kinds of things that a lot of other "car guys" would think to be waaay over their heads. really. roof replacements, firewall replacements of home build custom panels, complete front and rear suspension replacements that incorporate all sorts of upgrades and parts from newer vehicles or even some well thought out home built custom stuff, frame shortening, grafted subframes, wheel tubs, tilt beds, frame swaps, engine and trans swaps with do it yourself wiring, etc etc. there are some really well built, show quality trucks on this site and others. then we get all scaredy cat over modding a beat up non working gauge cluster that isn't much more than an ornament in it's existing state of disrepair. haha. it's kinda like "yeah, I built this whole truck built I think I'll get the kid down the block to fix my taillight bulb".
man, you can do this. you gotthe talent, you got the skill, you got the ingenuity. try it, whaddya got to lose.

[jeffs56]

I agree with you dsraven, but unfortunately some of us have no idea how to do a lot of that unfortunately. And for me that’s why I love this forum, you can look at other peoples builds and get referred to pictures and videos on how to do a lot of this. Like you said when you get help and info then you can attempt to get this stuff figured out. In my mind I can’t do it. But I never tried to fix the ammeter. I agree you can’t beat the look of the original gauges. I wish someone made an exact replacement for the ammeter but in volt. That way I don’t have to change that gauge. But I want to read more on how to do this. I’m going to check out ogre build again. And go from there. Hopefully more can chime in and see what they do

[dennislbrooks]

new speedo

This thread is about gauge clusters so I won't be wondering too far. I have 67 parts that I use up on the 59 if possible. The 59 speedo did not work so I took a spare 67 speedo and put it in the 59 cluster. Well I was not sure but with the tires/gearing/drive gear/driven gear, I should have only been off 3-4 mph.

It was literally double ---- 70 was actually 35 - checked against my phone speedo GPS app ----- dunno - only could figure that the differing beginning orientation is the culprit. I think both are 1000 rpm at 60 --may be wrong.

I unhooked the speedo cable and temp hooked it to another 67-72 dash speedo hanging by my left leg---speedo worked as it should.

Ogre -- I am doing body work but truck is still drivable. If I get a good day or need to turn it around, I will test. No bed, no doors, soon no fenders. Is licensed and insured -- 8-)

I will post my findings most likely in a new thread when I know. If I run 32 inch tires, my gauge at 60 would be real close. I run 31x1050s - which are about 29.5. Changing a drive gear in a np208 is tougher to do - need a 15 not the 18 that is in it. I run a 44 driven gear.

[dsraven]

jeff, don't sweat it. if you can find a set of gauges, like 59 chev has and ogre too I think, you can take them apart and fit them into your old cluster. I would say grab a speedo from something with a needle sweep of roughly the same as well and fit that in. ensure it is a working speedo with connections like you need and no other items inline that may have gear reductions built in. really, if you are a bit crafty and have a few tools, you can do this. don't overthink it. just dissassemble the old cluster, clean up the base unit, and see what you have for room. grab some gauges that will likely fit the bill-even a used set from somewhere, and take them apart so you can fit then in. just keep plugging along one task at a time and soon you will be putting the glass back on the front.
grab an aftermarket gauge, even a non working used unit to play with. dissassmble it so you have the actual gauge part and the face/needle but no bucket, glass etc. the gauge part is simply a unit with a face and a needle stuck inside a metal bucket and the terminal studs are insulated against the bucket. the gauge unit itself is simply a couple of electro magnets with a needle balanced between them. they work by having one magnet energized with a constant voltage which will draw the needle towards that magnet. the other magnet is also energized but the ground is run through a sending unit which varies the amount of voltage to that magnet. this makes that magnet have less or the same amount of magnetism than the constantly fed one on the other side of the needle. the same voltage would men the needle would center itself between the magnets. less voltage means the needle floats towards the stronger manet. keep the theory of how they work tucked away in the back of your mind because you shouldn't really need it other than to understand the internals of the gauge and the need to be insulated against a possible inadvertent short to ground through the gauge cluster.
you got this man, just start by taking it apart, take pics as you go, lay the parts out in order away from the work area so they don't get mixed up, then put it back together with the cut down new gauge parts. cleaning and painting as you go. if you get into trouble just ask for help.

[jeffs56]

This is my stock gauge cluster. I was told everything works from a bench test. But I’m thrown off buy the ammeter/volt dilemma

[Janky59]

Jeffs56, here is my 2 cents.
Like you I also stressed over the amp meter issue. I read page after page of amp to volt conversion posts. I bought a kit to do the deal (madelectrical.com) along with going to an alternator. Didn’t use it, short version is I hate electrical work, really really simple stuff I can tolerate. Beyond that I seize up.

I decided to farm out the job to a guy I trust and do a whole rewire too. While selecting the alternator l thought through things this way: I don’t have any extra electrical loads beyond stock, so I’ll select an alternator that is close to what the generator set up puts out. If I’m not loading the amp gauge beyond what it has seen the last 60 years, I’ll take the chance it will keep keep doing the job a few more decades. I had the guy leave it as an amp meter. 2 years on it’s ok.

I’ll probably get “flamed” - that’s OK, I still run drum brakes too. YMMV.

[jeffs56]

I’m not running anything fancy either. I will run a stereo with speakers. But I’m keeping it old school. I still have the dropped front axle and leaf springs, stock steering and old school whitewalls. So simple is better lol