sway bar

[REDROCKER652002]

OK, I am gonna call a local guy today about a sway bar for my son's 69. He says he has a bar that is 1 1/16 and is the heavy duty stock bar. He will also include the bushings, but I don't know if I really need them as I was thinking of going with a higher performance for future needs. What do you guys think is a fair price for this particular bar and bushing setup. It is used I am sure, so do I need to look for anything in particular? Any input would be great as I want to try and get this going while the weather is still good.

RR

[Andy4639]

I wouldn't give over $75.00 for just the bar and bushings.
You can buy a 1 1/4" new for less than $150.00 off e bay. I'd offer him $50.00 for it.

The mounts will be even $50.00 are more. You will have to decide on stock mounts are lowered also.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-1972-C...QAAOSwUlFaqUp0

[68 P.O.S.]

A front sway bar is a great upgrade. I would go for it. Andy is in the right price range too.

[HO455]

I got a 1 1/4" bar for $40 at a local truck wrecking yard. The 1 1/4" bars are on lots of later model trucks and are not hard to find.
Mine came with no end bushings, but I wanted urethane and wouldn't of used them anyway.
And with bars, Bigger is better!

[3767]

It will b a good upgrade for the kids truck. He will notice a difference n how it handles so b ready for new front tires after he wears the current ones out on the sides due to hanging those curves better(lmao) 50 for the bar but no more than 75. U can get new bushings from moog to replace. Since he works at oreillys, he can get them thru work and save some coin. From amazon, a new set is around 30 dollars. Better to get original style than the poly. Poly is popular in racing. They last longer but they tend to squeak because of it. Sometimes putting grease on the bar where the bushing rides will help, but it’s only temporary. The bushings moog makes are Original style but better than the original and will last.

[Already Gone]

Front sway bar is one of the best bang for the buck upgrades you can do to a 67-72. I would as been suggested already go to a wrecker and the the 1 1/4 bar from a 73-87 Chevy C30 or GMC 3500 truck. Couple that with a set of urethane bushing and lube em good at install and you be amazed at the difference in handling.

Here is an old thread but very relevant.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=72338

[Rich72C10]

I suppose I should do this, keep hearing (reading) how this one mod makes a difference.... though I haven't anyway to get the rivet out ... grrr.

[Accelo]

I drill them out.
Trick is to be as close to the center as possible when you start the hole. Difficult as the rivet head isn't exactly round.
You can try not drilling clear through the bushing.
Then you can use a punch to smack at the bottom of the hole. If you are lucky, or good, then the rivet will break at the thin section between the hole and the rivet sides.
Because rivets expand, when installed, they can be difficult to get out even after grinding the heads off the rivets. Drilling the center helps them come out easier. All depends on the tools you have available.
Another popular method it to cut an X into the rivet head with a cut-off wheel then remove the rivet with a air hammer.
Best of luck.

[Rich72C10]

Thx Accelo, I only have a battery drill, its a good one but not really thinking it would do the deed but I have it in the back of my mind. My brother is bugging me to drive up this summer for their Model A tour around the Longview area (he is hosting it this year). It would likely be a 5 minute thing for him to do.

[Accelo]

Originally Posted by Rich72C10

Thx Accelo, I only have a battery drill.

A good battery drill would do it. However, if you can get help I would use the resource. I'm assuming you meant Longview TX. I live in Longview, WA LOL

[Rich72C10]

Yep, Longview Texas - it is where I grew up (mostly)! Though I always wanted to check out Longview, Wa! LOL

[kaycee]

Use a cold chisel and a BFH

[BigBird05]

I drilled mine out. Take a file and flatten off the rivet head. Start with a small drill and work up gradually in size. Then I used carriage bolts to install the sway bar on my truck.

[siggyfreud]

Or if you have access to a plasma burn the center out and use a punch. Every time I go to drill a rivet out or chisel it out, I get frustrated and just burn the thing out haha.

[Andy4639]

Easy way is go by a mechanic shop and ask if the would air chesil it out for you. Takes about 5 minutes on each one.

I just ordered the new mounts for the Ramp truck to install the one that came with the 86 front end I had installed under it. Don't really need it on a 3/4 ton but I have it may as well use it.

[Tx Firefighter]

I suffered through frame rivet removal for about 25 years using the common techniques with drills and grinders. Then I bought a truly nasty air hammer and my life changed. It will wipe a frame rivet head off in about 4 seconds. Then swap to the pointy bit and maybe another 5 seconds to push the remnant out of the hole. As much heavy suspension work as I've done in my life you'd think I would have done it sooner. I'm not a bright man.

[Hidesertchevy]

Air hammer and a good bit makes it easy.

[68 P.O.S.]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I suffered through frame rivet removal for about 25 years using the common techniques with drills and grinders. Then I bought a truly nasty air hammer and my life changed. It will wipe a frame rivet head off in about 4 seconds. Then swap to the pointy bit and maybe another 5 seconds to push the remnant out of the hole. As much heavy suspension work as I've done in my life you'd think I would have done it sooner. I'm not a bright man.

Care to share which nasty air hammer you bought? Always looking for a better tool lol

[PepperTreeGarage]

Replaced my 1-1/16 bar with a 1-1/4 bar from a salvage yard and added new Poly bushings. Since the truck is lowered, I installed the lowered Sway Bar brackets while I was at it. The 1-1/4 bars are available from '73-'87 and up to '91 on the 1 ton duallys.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by 68 P.O.S.

Care to share which nasty air hammer you bought? Always looking for a better tool lol

The Big Nasty from Astro Pneumatic.

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumat.../dp/B01C2RTJZK

[Rich72C10]

I got my CPP Sway Bar installed a bit ago, when I had the shop replace my whole frontend with new Mogg parts (only kept the springs). They thought they'd get it all done in a day but ended up having for three days but stayed real close to the quoted price. I am pretty sure the truck drives better than when it came off the assembly line!

I even got a 10% off for my next visit / thank you card in the mail from them, which I'll be using for having drive shaft (u-joints/balance) to rear end inspected (minor leak).

[Richard]

Originally Posted by 3767

It will b a good upgrade for the kids truck. He will notice a difference n how it handles so b ready for new front tires after he wears the current ones out on the sides due to hanging those curves better(lmao) 50 for the bar but no more than 75. U can get new bushings from moog to replace. Since he works at oreillys, he can get them thru work and save some coin. From amazon, a new set is around 30 dollars. Better to get original style than the poly. Poly is popular in racing. They last longer but they tend to squeak because of it. Sometimes putting grease on the bar where the bushing rides will help, but it’s only temporary. The bushings moog makes are Original style but better than the original and will last.

Have run poly bushings on the sway bar in my 94 since new. Honestly I never even thought about re-greasing them until I lost one of the end links a few years ago. Replaced both links at the time. Never any noticeable noise before or after the repair. It was stock height, then lowered, then stock height and is now lifted.