47-55.1 Sheet Metal Console

[Driver_WT]

Hello everyone, we are making a sheet metal console for my 53 Chevy truck. The main part is being from two pieces of a sheet metal trailer fender. The trailer fender has a curved edge on one side and a flat edge on the other side, so we split the two trailer fenders down the middle and used the two pieces with curved edges to make the main part of the console. When the two pieces were welded together, it created a bit of dip in the middle of the console and I would like it to be flat. I have a hammer and dolly but don't know how to use it to take out the dip in the center. Can anyone enlighten me on the basics of using a hammer and dolly to work out a dip in sheet metal?

Thanks.

Wade

[mongocanfly]

Pretty sure I can visualize what your describing,,,,but got any pics?

[Driver_WT]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Pretty sure I can visualize what your describing,,,,but got any pics?

Thanks. I will get a couple of pics this evening and post them up.

[mongocanfly]

I'm guessing it looks something like this..

[mr48chev]

This is where a "stump" aka round of firewood comes in handy. Use something like that as your backer to hammer it into shape. If you have a dead blow hammer you might start with it to take most of that dip out without putting hammer marks in it that you have to take care of. then get out your hammer and dolly to do the fine tuning.

[Driver_WT]

Picture of console attached. The center piece is welded up in line with the shifter slot.

[Driver_WT]

Not sure why the pic is showing sideways, it is up right when I just open the pic on my computer

[Driver_WT]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

I'm guessing it looks something like this..

Yes, slight dip in the middle, but I will be installing stereo in this section so I would like it to be flat.

[Driver_WT]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

This is where a "stump" aka round of firewood comes in handy. Use something like that as your backer to hammer it into shape. If you have a dead blow hammer you might start with it to take most of that dip out without putting hammer marks in it that you have to take care of. then get out your hammer and dolly to do the fine tuning.

Thanks. I am hoping one of the very experienced body work guys on here will give me the quick into into using hammer and dolly

[mongocanfly]

Ok I see what your doing now...I was thinking a between the seats console..
Rotated..
Where are you wanting to mount the radio?...I assume directly above the shifter slot?..
Could you lay a straight edge across it in that area...
Again , I'm assuming this is where your wanting it..

Although it wasnt curved, I had the same issues when I built the overhead radio console for my IH...it was multiple pieces with radius edges welded together...it did the same thing..
Mine was flat so it was easier to form it back...with yours being the radius , its gonna be harder cause you have to move metal in 2 directions...
Might want to ask this in the paint and body section...mp&c or theastronaut can give the best advice..

[Driver_WT]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Where are you wanting to mount the radio?...I assume directly above the shifter slot?..

Yes, stereo just above the shifter slot.

How did you rotate my pic?

Thanks.

[mongocanfly]

what i do when they rotate is rotate them right side up and then clip the sides off the pic and save..most of the time theyll stay that way..

how does the radio fit to the radius of the fender/console..

[Driver_WT]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

what i do when they rotate is rotate them right side up and then clip the sides off the pic and save..most of the time theyll stay that way..

how does the radio fit to the radius of the fender/console..

The height of the radio is only 2" so it will fit fine on the radius. I am also planning to cover the console with leather, so that will give me a bit more to play with to make the stereo fit the radius.

[mick53]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

I'm guessing it looks something like this..

We have similar drawing skills.

[BAM55]

What you have there is called shrinkage. Welding causes shrinkage sometimes very little sometimes a lot. Thats why we tack weld and take our time when welding sheetmetal. Now you have a HAZ (Heat Affected Zone) when welding its the area where the metal change color in and around the weld. That is the area causing the shrinkage. To fix this I would hammer on dolly. Since you have access to the back I grind both sides of the weld, place my dolly over the front of the HAZ and hammer from the back. Hammer on dolly is stretching the metal so you are trying correct the shrinkage. Experience panel bumpers can do this by placing the dolly on the back of the panel but its easier for a beginner to do the reverse.You can use a guide coat on the bare metal to see how close you are getting. Many cases you will not have access to hammer on the back of panel and thats when you will truly need to learn hammering on and off dolly. Oh and your dolly should closely match the shape of your panel. Do not beat the heck out of it trying to get it to move it takes patience.

Its hard to explain but I hope I helped.

[mr48chev]

The main cause of it is exactly as Bam55 said, welding too much at one time. We have all been there/done that at one time or another.

[mongocanfly]

Haha Mick...drawings dont turn out to good when you have to use your finger on the screen,, and your finger is the size of a sausage..

[Driver_WT]

Originally Posted by BAM55

What you have there is called shrinkage. Welding causes shrinkage sometimes very little sometimes a lot. Thats why we tack weld and take our time when welding sheetmetal. Now you have a HAZ (Heat Affected Zone) when welding its the area where the metal change color in and around the weld. That is the area causing the shrinkage. To fix this I would hammer on dolly. Since you have access to the back I grind both sides of the weld, place my dolly over the front of the HAZ and hammer from the back. Hammer on dolly is stretching the metal so you are trying correct the shrinkage. Experience panel bumpers can do this by placing the dolly on the back of the panel but its easier for a beginner to do the reverse.You can use a guide coat on the bare metal to see how close you are getting. Many cases you will not have access to hammer on the back of panel and thats when you will truly need to learn hammering on and off dolly. Oh and your dolly should closely match the shape of your panel. Do not beat the heck out of it trying to get it to move it takes patience.

Its hard to explain but I hope I helped.

Great information thank you. I will be working on this today and will post results.

[BAM55]

Originally Posted by Driver_WT

Great information thank you. I will be working on this today and will post results.

I forgot to say. Only work the HAZ area (Heat Affected Zone) do not work anywhere else. Once the HAZ is the area that changed color during welding in and around the weld. If there is shrinkage in other areas its still caused by the HAZ area.

[dsraven]

yup, shrinkage from welding is my guess too. like Bam says, hammer on dolly ONLY the haz to expand that area. I use a piece of sandpaper on a block of wood to scuff over the area after making it all colored with a big fatty marker. the sandpaper will show up the high and low spots where a little more work is needed. after that I use a shrinking disc to heat up only the high spots and then a cool wet rag quickly to cool off those heated up spots to shrink then like the metal around them. you could try a laundry iron for that if you get brave. it is only for the last minute final stuff so you don't have to use a bunch of filler.
if doing something like this again, use tack welds and let cool between them. tack, hammer on dolly that tack when still hot, cool, next tack, hammer on dolly the tack, cool, keep going till there is no space between the tacks. space the tacks out to hold the piece in shape so the gap stays consistent along the whole edge. like do one at each end, one in the middle etc, before doing a bunch like in the middle or something. don't start in the middle and work your way out unless you are carefull to keep an eye on the overall shape and gap spacing. otherwise you will find the piece has slowly found it's way into the scrap pile because it is outta shape. always let it cool off till you would be comfortable sticking your tongue on it before tacking/welding again (thanks martinsr for that tip, lol). having two projects to do at the same time is good so you aren't tempted to go too fast.
since the project is supposed to be flat across from side to side, you could hammer on dolly from the back side using something fat like a steel workbench top or a piece of flat steel as the dolly. be aware of what type of crown your body hammer hammer has as well. a little research will help figure that out, or trial and error. if you have a dolly that is shaped like the curve you can use it as a hammer/slapper.

[_Ogre]

That should be a nice looking console

[Driver_WT]

Thanks for all of the replies and info. I have got the console pretty much flat where the stereo will go and the rest of it looks pretty good. There is still a bit of dip in the middle at the top, but that piece will be under the dash so I am not too concerned with that part.

I will post up some pics when the console is finished and the leather is on it.

[Driver_WT]

Got the console finished. Just need to finish the wiring under the dash now.

Thanks for all of the help.

Wade

[_Ogre]

turned out nice!

[Driver_WT]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

turned out nice!

Thanks (from one yellow truck to another LOL)